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Tanfoglio Match .40 question


jarvis243

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There is a guy in my area that is selling a Match .40. It comes with 5 mags, DAA belt, holster, and mag pouches for $600. I don't know a lot about the tanfo's but i do know a bit about Cz's. My question, is that a good deal? He says there has only a box through it. How hard is it to get parts and and get thes pistols repaired should they need something done? Would this be a good gun to learn with?

Also I am currently shooting an XDM 5.25 .40 and i love the gun. I have another pistol that i have going to sell to fund a CZ and that is one of the reasons i am even considering this one for sell because from what i read they are very similar. How similar i don't know. If the gun was a 9mm i would go ahead and do the deal because that is what i want. So my thoughts are if i buy it and i don't like it i could possibly sell it and keep the XDM or go the other way.

Any thoughts or advice is appreciated. Thanks in advance.

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I personally own a .40 tanfoglio eaa match and compete with it. It is better than your XDM for sure. And for the price of 600 you will never go wrong with it. The magazines it self for 5 cost 300 bucks. The gear depending on the brand another 300 bucks so basically you getting the gun for free. I would get that offer. And it is a full steel frame than your XDM.

I would personally get that out oh his hand if it's offered to me. Don't mind getting a 2nd tanfoglio match. :)

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Brand new Match 40 is 580.00, comes with 2 mags. 3 more is $75 from eaa. Holster is 70.00.

Your deal on a used one is not too good.

If it is the old style frame with super sight, I would pay the price.

A 40 can be used fort Limited class, 9mm can not.

Old style frame fits the idpa box.

Edited by AlphaSeeker
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I would be using for limited. I have only shot uspsa and steel. If the gun shoots as good as everybody claims than I will probably sell my xdm. Alphaseeker do you think it is a bad deal? I figured with 6 mags, 4 mag pouches and holster I would be doing pretty good since I really don't have that already. I will handle the gun tomorrow. He says he has only put a box of bullets through it. Assuming he is telling me the truth and it is really clean what should I be concerned about?

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Don't worry so much about the number of rounds that have been through that pistol. I have about 12K through my Match and it is still very accurate. The slide to frame fit has loosened up some compared to when it was new, but the barrel to slide fit seems about the same as far as I can tell and that seems to be more important for accuracy.

As for getting it repaired- I ordered a few spare parts, just in case, an extractor and slide stop and several springs, but haven't changed anything but the recoil springs and it is still working great. Its been very accurate with no failures to feed or extract.

If you want a 9mm then you should probably buy a 9mm. I got locked into .40 S&W because I could pick up once fired brass for free.

The gurus on the forum advise that the CZ and Tanfoglio designs are similar except for the hammer spring design but not many parts interchange. In my opinion, the Match's SA (single action) trigger is much better than a DA/SA trigger or the striker fired XD trigger, but that may just be personal preference. YMMV.

Magazines- stock were and maybe still are $75 for three from EAA, but if you want higher capacity, then aftermarket springs, followers and base pads kick the price up a bunch to get more capacity. Racing costs money. A very successful NASCAR car racing team owner once said, "Racing has made me moderately wealthy." Then after the audience was shocked because its so expensive, he added, "But I was filthy rich to start with."

Luckily, our sport is much cheaper. I advise you to buy what you want, stay with that choice (at least for a while) and spend your money on ammo and practicing. Single stage presses work just fine if you've got enough brass, if not then progressive presses are much better (but more expensive). My two cents.

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I have the match in 9mm and will be buying one in 40 also.

I like 40 for knock down steel and have used it in USPSA Limited - great gun.

9mm seems to fetch a higher price, but I do not think it is warranted in the Match.

The newer frame [with rail on front] does not fit the IDPA box so it can not be used there,

The last used Match in 9mm went for $400 in my local gun shop.

If you are going to use factory ammo, get the 9mm to save money.

Since the Match uses a roll pin at the hammer, look for marks on the pin or the opening around it. Most people will not remove the hammer after just a box of ammo.

Look at the sear face - any rounded edges, dings, mirror polished surface, etc., indicate alteration and or wear. The match sear is brownish/bronze in surface color. It is surface hardened and thus any polishing, stoning, will greatly reduce the life of the sear and create a likelihood of unintended ignition [machine gunning] - been there, done that.

If the sear is light grey, it was replaced.

The finish on the hammer wears off with use - it takes more then 200 rounds to wear away more than a little bit of the finish.

Mags, mag pouches, holsters, can add up - it may be a good deal for you. If you intend to stick with steel, a speed holster may be a better choice - will also prevent scraping of the finish on the slide.

No matter what, if the gun is in good shape, you will enjoy it. The initial cost will pale in comparison with you ammo, practice target, steel plates, and gas bills. Life's too short to count every penny.

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Thanks for the heads up alphaseeker. Fortunately I have been reloading for many years. I have a progressive and that helps a lot. Just a heads up I already did the deed and I am now a new owner of a tanfoglio. The slide felt tight and gun looks great. The guy said everything is stock but tonight I am going to take a look at what you said in your previous post. I feel like I got a good deal that being said i get pretty excited about any gun purchase. I shot about 30 rds through it already and it shot and felt great. Love the trigger and need to get used to it because I keep hitting very low and left. And it's worse off course out to 25yds. I'm seriously considering selling my XDM's.

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Some guys clean every time they shoot, but others wait quite a while before cleaning. As long as its lubed, it seems to work fine. Slide Glide is probably the lube that that gets mentioned the most.

I lightly grease the "kidney bean" shaped opening in the lower part of the barrel where the slide release passes through and contacts it. The slide rails where they ride on the frame, the outside of the barrel near the muzzle, where it contacts the slide, the grooves in the top of the barrel (above the chamber) where it locks into the slide, the bottom edge of the firing pin stop (where it cocks the hammer) and with the hammer cocked I put one drop of oil on the inside part of the hammer (below where it strikes the firing pin) so it runs down onto the hammer/sear interface. I apologize if I haven't used the proper terminology for those parts and I don't claim to know as much as the heavy hitters here, I'm just winging it. Good Luck.

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I'm not too good with this picture posting. It keeps saying they are too big. There she be! How much and how often are you guys oiling these guns? Where are you applying it?

I clean and apply Lubriplate SFL-1 every 2000 rounds or so. Apply it to the rails and the "kidney bean". Slide Glide is similar, just way more expensive. $3.00 of Lubriplate lasts you 2+ years.

Oil is honestly a crappy lubricant for this purpose. Go to grease and you'll be much happier.

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as long as it's lubed it'll work fine., if you really hate cleaning you will eventually at least have to clean the feedramp or it'll stop feeding.

I do the following (bear in mind it's open gun so it gets super dirty).

field strip gun.

spray brake cleaner in barrel, slide, action parts, inside of frame

wipe off excess gunk.

clean barrel with brush with some bore cleaner on it then run a patch through.

a drop of oil at each of these places:

back of hammer

sear/safety

trigger pin/spring

plunger head/trigger bar

each side of trigger bar

then bit of oil on patch and rub it over the slide stop pin, barrel and guide rod

slide glide goes on frame and slide rails, barrel lug cut outs in slide, some on the barrel lugs, a little in the kidney/peanut, a little in the front of the side where the barrel locks up

don't overdo it though (like I sometimes do) or grease and oil and shit just sprays out everywhere. :(

a light coating applied regularly is all you need. :)

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If you decide to oil instead of grease, remember "don't overdo it... shit just sprays out everywhere". I had that happen once when I was wearing a nice dress shirt (I stopped at an indoor range on the way home from work in LA years ago and it got covered in very small oil spots when the pistol "sneezed" on the first shot. The spots never came out and I had to throw it out, but my wife was very gracious and never complained. Good luck.

PS: I don't lube the inside of the magazines, it seems to just attract dirt.

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