b1gcountry Posted February 11, 2015 Share Posted February 11, 2015 The speculation I have heard is that the same company had recently started manufacturing the imt brass for another ammo maker. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
noylj Posted February 12, 2015 Share Posted February 12, 2015 >The ones that don't fit there is a very distinct bulge where the base of the bullet is. The solution to chambering problems is always the same: Take the barrel out of the gun. Drop rounds in until you find one that won't chamber. Take that round and "paint" the bullet and case black with Magic Marker or other marker. Drop round in barrel (or gage) and rotate it back-and-forth. Remove and inspect the round: 1) scratches on bullet--COL is too long 2) scratches on case mouth--insufficient crimp 3) scratches just below the case mouth--too much crimp, you're crushing the case 4) scratches on case at base of bullet--bullet seated crooked due to insufficient case expansion (not case mouth flare) or improper seating stem fit 5) scratches on case just above extractor groove--case bulge not removed during sizing. May need a bulge buster. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarge Posted February 12, 2015 Share Posted February 12, 2015 A small nit, but it is ammoload brass, not ammoLAND. Also brass stamped IMT or IMI is the same stuff.For clarification, IMT and ammoload are same with ledge inside case and are garbage. However, IMI brass is good to go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike41 Posted February 15, 2015 Share Posted February 15, 2015 Can anyone advise me about the photos if this a crimp problem? Thanks, Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b1gcountry Posted February 15, 2015 Share Posted February 15, 2015 Looks like a lot of crimp mushrooming the base of the bullet... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
noylj Posted February 16, 2015 Share Posted February 16, 2015 If the scratch is at the base of the bullet, then the bullet is seated crooked. For all I know, it started seating crooked and then straightened out and left a bulge. Go down a little further, all the way to the extractor groove and see if you pick up signs of a case bulge down there. It is a little low to be an over-crimp sign. Finally, pull the bullet and look for damage (excess crimp will put a "ring" around the bullet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Build4u Posted February 16, 2015 Share Posted February 16, 2015 I posted in number 16 that it does not seem like enough crimp by the math at .379 and it looks like it in the gage picture. Did you try adding more? Make a mark on the die so you can move it back to where your at if worried and adjust to .377 and check. If the bullet is .355 and the wall thickness is .011 x 2 that is .377 with out a squeeze at the case mouth. Is it a Dillon taper crimp die? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill M Posted February 16, 2015 Author Share Posted February 16, 2015 I added crimp still producing poor ammo with CBC. I now believe they are going in crooked, Im not belling the case much so next on the list is the increase that. The few win brass that don't size well I think might be case bulge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Build4u Posted February 16, 2015 Share Posted February 16, 2015 (edited) A bulge at the bottom of the bullet on a tapered case is pretty normal after reloading. Most dies undersize the brass some so after neck expansion you do not have to crimp as much to keep the bullet from pushing back in the case when feeding. The case is tapered the neck expander potion of a powder funnel is not tapered opening up a straight section in the brass. This should not stop the round from going in a gage after proper crimp. The angled portion on a powder funnel is just to create the flare for starting a bullet. You still have to get the neck crimped to the correct dimension. If it is a Dillon taper crimp die you have to keep adjusting the crimp a ways after you think it is there. I just went through this in .40 with a Dillon die. I had been using RCBS in auto calibers since 1983, only new to the .40. My 1050 is set up in 9mm now. Have you tried another brand of brass? Are you still at .379 ? Get it to .377 and see what happens. You only have to test on one round. Pull the bullet and check it after. Edited February 16, 2015 by Build4u Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdaviswlk Posted March 3, 2015 Share Posted March 3, 2015 I'm having these problems with the new Starline 9mm +P brass I just bought. Btw starline is all I load with and its the best for me but maybe not the +p. Im loading on my xl650. Other than the EGW u-die all my 9mm dies are dillon. Either the thick wall brass or the MG 124gr JHP is why it's not going flush on my EGW case gauge. This is the first batch thats not going flush in the gauge. Btw, I know, I'm a little OCD when I reload and everything has to be perfect. Haha but this batch shot great out of my Glock 23L with 40-9 LW barrel today so I wasn't going to worry about it. But before I left the range I loaded up a 15rd mag and tested them out on my JRC carbine and had 4 FTE. Btw, I've never had any problems with my JRC carbine with any of the multiple reloads I've put through it. Ive even shot some light test loads that wouldn't cycle in my glock and they shot fine in it, so I know my powder amount isn't causing it.. This is my first batch with JHP and +p brass. What seating stem should I use in that dillon die with the mg 124 JHP? My crimp is .378 and OAL is 1.20 like all my loads. There is a little JRC quirk I've heard about that weak or crooked mag springs will cause stove pipes and that could have been my problem but of course thats another topic. Seating the MG 124gr JHP incorrectly or the Starline +P brass? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarge Posted March 3, 2015 Share Posted March 3, 2015 1.20 is very very long for 9mm. I load 9MAJOR at about 1.165 or so and that's pretty long. Maybe you mean 1.120? MG are very hard bullets that take more powder generally to get them up to speed. You don't say what your load us but my guess is it's too light. Remember, Glocks will eat anything so that is rarely a good comparison. MG bullets are typically under .355 so you might want to see what crimping to .376 does to help. And boy are you wasting money by buying new star line brass! You can buy good once fired brass all day long for a third the cost. Make sure you are Lubing cases. That cuts down on most case gauge failures. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gng4life Posted March 3, 2015 Share Posted March 3, 2015 Yeah, 1.200 will not fit in a Glock mag, has to be 1.120 or 1.020, I'm guessing the former. How far in the gauge are the rounds dropping to? EGW is known to the have the tightest tolerances for gauges. Have you taken the barrel out and tried them there (plunk test)? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
razorfish Posted March 3, 2015 Share Posted March 3, 2015 (edited) Starline 9mm and 9mm +P brass is the same thing, there's absolutely no difference been regular 9mm and +P 9mm brass when it comes to Starline. When I used the Dillon bullet seater die with MG JHP's, I had better luck with the flat side (vs. the rounded) of the bullet seater. Make sure your EGW case gauge is very tight to begin with so make sure it's absolutely clean and free of debris. Link to Starline Brass explaining the +P headstamp on 9mm brass: https://www.starlinebrass.com/brass-cases/9MMP-Brass/ Edited March 3, 2015 by razorfish Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DougCarden Posted March 3, 2015 Share Posted March 3, 2015 Any new brass will show a bulge. Case in point I got some new starline in a trade. I loaded up 160 CRN in them at 1.140. I noted a bulge line in the case but not in once fired brass, even once fired starline. It will fit in the chamber fine, but looks horrible. Once you fire the brass it will expand to the chamber and then when resizing it won't be the smaller diameter it was when it was new..... DougC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdaviswlk Posted March 3, 2015 Share Posted March 3, 2015 I'm sorry I that was a critical typo. I meant 1.120 oal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdaviswlk Posted March 3, 2015 Share Posted March 3, 2015 I've loaded a lot of regular Starline brass and it didn't seem to hang as much when I drop my powder and start going downward. I agree the EGW gauge is extremely tight but I've had my last 3 batches drop in and freely fall out. This one is the only one that I have to tap it to fall out. Like I said I've never loaded a JHP and never used +P brass. Regardless if those are the problems like you guys said. Here's mg 124gr JHP & SL +p brass Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill M Posted February 2, 2016 Author Share Posted February 2, 2016 I know this is old, I moved and had to rebuild reloading room. I ordered a case pro while I was having this problem. I got it about 2 weeks ago. So I tried that no change. I then recheck and measured everything. Went to single stage loaded fine. Went back and switched the seating stem to the rounded profile. Loaded great. I feel a little silly seeing how that was posted as something to check and I missed reading it. It's been a real learning experience, but hey I was able to convince wife I needed a case pro to save brass. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JD45 Posted February 2, 2016 Share Posted February 2, 2016 CBC is great in my .45. But useless in the 9mm. I've found tons of them not gauging. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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