Dirty Rod Posted January 3, 2015 Share Posted January 3, 2015 Hey Folks, Over the last 3 years I've gone through calipers from Franford Arsenal, Harbor Freight, a Kobalt unit from Lowes. They either start slipping, die, or start eating batteries at an alarming rate. Looking for digital and I'd rather not go spend $200+ on a Starret so is there anything durable in the $100 range that anyone has good experience with? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foxbat Posted January 3, 2015 Share Posted January 3, 2015 You can buy a great used Mitutoyo on ebay for under $100, I have several, they are wonderful. http://www.ebay.com/itm/MITUTOYO-DIGIMATIC-ELECTRONIC-Micrometer-Digital-CALIPERS-0-6-500-351-/251777305919?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a9f18cd3f Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dirty Rod Posted January 3, 2015 Author Share Posted January 3, 2015 Thanks. I just heard about those so I'll keep an eye on that one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarge Posted January 3, 2015 Share Posted January 3, 2015 I bought the one Brian sells when I bought my stuff from him in 09 and it still works great. Uses a battery every year and a half or so. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brassaholic13 Posted January 3, 2015 Share Posted January 3, 2015 Mitutoyo. Everything else is inferior. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foxbat Posted January 3, 2015 Share Posted January 3, 2015 Mitutoyo. Everything else is inferior. Absolutimo! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarge Posted January 4, 2015 Share Posted January 4, 2015 I'm all for a good arms race but DAMN! Searching for used calipers? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dirty Rod Posted January 4, 2015 Author Share Posted January 4, 2015 (edited) I'm all for a good arms race but DAMN! Searching for used calipers? The intention is was to buy new however if a used top shelf caliper is like buying a used Craftsman rachet then I'm OK with that. Hell my first Dillon 550 was a 20 year old, 3 owner, 200k round press before I got it so perhaps it will work out better than the three new calipers I've tried. I bought the one Brian sells when I bought my stuff from him in 09 and it still works great. Uses a battery every year and a half or so. Good to hear. I looked on the Dillon site and didn't see an electronic and didn't think To check BE. Edited January 4, 2015 by Dirty Rod Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmorris Posted January 4, 2015 Share Posted January 4, 2015 (edited) I prefer my Brown & Sharpe and Mitutoyo dial calipers but a $9 digital HF caliper will check out fine on 0-6" standards. I don't think I have ever hurt a set of calipers in my reloading room but there is no coolant or concrete. Don't store a digital in the box or cut out the foam so the ON button does not get pressed when you shut the lid. I would rather have 10 brand new cheap calipers I could test and return if bad than one used name brand caliper I know nothing about except price. Edited January 4, 2015 by jmorris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brassaholic13 Posted January 4, 2015 Share Posted January 4, 2015 (edited) I buy used micrometers,calipers, and measuring standards on Ebay. If there's an issue, I'll send them in. So far, never had an issue and I've saved thousands over buying new. Here's the best article you will ever read on caliper purchases: http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/greatest-hits-links/best-micrometers-calipers-buy-110651/ Edited January 4, 2015 by Brassaholic13 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimMc Posted January 4, 2015 Share Posted January 4, 2015 (edited) I have a Brown and sharp I got off ebay and not had an issue yet. Friend has had a fowler for 20 years and still works flawless. Both his and mine are digital not dial. Spend the money for a good brand. If your like the rest of us we all spend a lot of money to get the best equipment. So why skimp in the measuring tools that are used to adjust the equipment. Not trying to sound critical but if the measuring tools are cheap, what are the results of them and can you trust them. Good luck Brassaholic13 great link. Edited January 4, 2015 by TimMc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foxbat Posted January 4, 2015 Share Posted January 4, 2015 I buy used micrometers,calipers, and measuring standards on Ebay. If there's an issue, I'll send them in. So far, never had an issue and I've saved thousands over buying new. Same here. I have some Mitutoyos that I bought new, and some - used, no issues with either, ever. Comparing to other brands they have that special smooth quality feel about them, they are just plain pleasant to use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmorris Posted January 4, 2015 Share Posted January 4, 2015 (edited) - You'll use a 1" micrometer the most and it should be the best and most conveneint you can afford. - A 0-6 or 0-8" caliper might be the next investment. I'd suggest either a high quality dial caliper(B&S makes an excellent one and Mitutoyo would be my second choice) or a digital electronic caliper if you need metric as well. Mitutoyo would be my first choice in a digital; since quality ones wihtout SPC are now available under $100. The import clones aren't too bad. The link reads like something I would have wrote. B&S then Mitutoyo dial are my #1 and 2; however, if an inexpensive digital is as accurate for reloading why not.There is a difference between resolution and accuracy. While a caliper might give you a resoultion of a half a thousandth the accuracy is stil double that or .001". Doesn't matter who made it, just the device. Anyone trying to keep tolerances within .001", on a machined part, does not use calipers to measure the finished product. A micrometer is by design a better more precise instrument. Not that a micrometer is needed, in the reloading world, almost nothing is consistent enough to need a micrometer. If you used one you would likely just be upset that the machines and components we use are "so far" out of spec. Load a hundred rounds and measure the OAL on all of them (cases, bullets, primer depth), with the most expensive caliper you can buy. If they are all within .001" I'll buy you a steak dinner. Edited January 4, 2015 by jmorris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lunker Posted January 4, 2015 Share Posted January 4, 2015 I am so used to seeing caliber misspelled as caliper on gun forums, that I assumed this was a caliber thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarge Posted January 4, 2015 Share Posted January 4, 2015 (edited) We are pretty good at caliper and caliber on enos. Now, advice and advise , that's another story! ? Edited January 4, 2015 by Sarge Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Open1215 Posted January 5, 2015 Share Posted January 5, 2015 I use a blue point. I'm not sure on the cost for just that. I got mine in a precision measurement kit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob1125 Posted January 7, 2015 Share Posted January 7, 2015 I wish I had seen this thread before I ordered a Starret from Amazon. I bought it based on name recognition and reputation from my high school machine shop experience MANY years ago. I received it last Friday and the first thing I noticed was the "Made in China" sticker on the end of the box. The scale is silk screened and not etched like I remember. Should have bought the Mitutoyo for just a few dollars more... If it doesn't perform like I hope, it's going back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xrayfk05 Posted January 7, 2015 Share Posted January 7, 2015 Here is a post that compares Mitutoyo calipers to cheaper ones: http://www.fliptronics.com/tip0006.html TLDR: They all read the same and using the same amount of force to close the calipers is more important than the brand. The Mitutoyo are more energy efficient though, allthough the cheaper ones are usually fed cheap batteries which run out very quickly. You want to use a SR44 not a LR44! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foxbat Posted January 7, 2015 Share Posted January 7, 2015 (edited) What kills the battery in the caliper is usually not the use, but forgetting to turn it OFF at the end. I try to be religious about turning it off right after each measurement, otherwise you definitely forget it. I am not sure why they don't have automatic turn off feature. I also have the solar cell Mitutoyo, which is lovely and very convenient, but it is much more expensive. I should also mention that I also have several of the $9.95 Chinese ones, and use them often. They are fine for routine measurements, not requiring precision. So my advice is - either buy a cheap $9.95 model, or jump to Mitu, don't stop in the middle. Edited January 7, 2015 by Foxbat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brassaholic13 Posted January 7, 2015 Share Posted January 7, 2015 Actually, from my experience, what defines a good caliper from bad is the precision in which the two pieces fit together. If the center channel is a sloppy fit, you can't get consistent, repeatable, readings. The readings you do get, may or may not be accurate due to the slop in the calipers. My dad has a $12.00 pair of calipers from Ebay, and sometimes they will match my Mitutoyo. It just depends how many times you want to open/close the cheap calipers to finally get that correct reading. The electronics, I suspect, are all of the same technology. I never did understand why they couldn't make a cheap-ER solar cell caliper. It's not like it's new technology. We've had solar calculators for how long now? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarge Posted January 7, 2015 Share Posted January 7, 2015 What kills the battery in the caliper is usually not the use, but forgetting to turn it OFF at the end. I try to be religious about turning it off right after each measurement, otherwise you definitely forget it. I am not sure why they don't have automatic turn off feature. The ones I got from Brian turn off by themselves. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brassaholic13 Posted January 7, 2015 Share Posted January 7, 2015 What kills the battery in the caliper is usually not the use, but forgetting to turn it OFF at the end. I try to be religious about turning it off right after each measurement, otherwise you definitely forget it. I am not sure why they don't have automatic turn off feature. The ones I got from Brian turn off by themselves. As long as they don't reset to zero, that's a plus. If they reset to zero, that's a pain in the butt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmorris Posted January 7, 2015 Share Posted January 7, 2015 You can always use the standards that come with micrometer sets to check them throughout their range. Even with "good" ones you want to make sure they are measuring correctly from time to time. The electronics they use in the HF ones has changed over time. I have one set that will turn off the LCD after a few min and it powers back on with any movement of the slide. Don't know if it is an old one or newer version though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 7, 2015 Share Posted January 7, 2015 (edited) I have a several calipers - dial and digital. For digital I don't think there are any better than the Mitutoyo. I have a 20 year old set that are as good now as they were new, and new sets that are almost identical in feel and function to the 20 year old digimatics except for the different graphics. I also have some cheapie digitals that I leave on the bench for checking things when loading. They don't have the feel of the Mitutoyos but they seem to be pretty accurate as long as the sensor strip is kept clean. Recently had some frankford arsanal calipers that started consistently reading about .003 low. I figured this out when I was measuring some bullet diameters and getting numbers that weren't making sense and checked it with a gauge block. Cleaned the encoder strip with IPA and exercised it a few times over the full travel and it was back to reading nuts on with a 1.0000 gauge block. I had been loading some lead bullets with red lube and probably got some of the waxy lube on the encoder strip. So, if the readings start getting flaky try cleaning them before tossing. I'm still a big fan of dial calipers, though, and have some old made in the USA Starretts and Japanese made dials that have been worked like a rented mule and still function great. Edited January 7, 2015 by Bamboo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foxbat Posted January 7, 2015 Share Posted January 7, 2015 I used to like the dial calipers, still have two B&S, they feel great! But I guess not many have calipers like these: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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