Optimum Loads: When am I there?

[Splat]

Loading newbie here. Just a few days ago I got my Hornady LnL AP setup, cleaned up, and dies installed. I've yet adjusted the dies due to time constraints....hopefully next week I'll be able to do it. So after reading and reading and reading the past 3-4 months about reloading I believe I have a good grasp on it, yet there's one thing that I haven't seen talked about. How do you know when your loads are optimal for the gun you're using them in? I have an STI Lawman .45acp 1911. How or when do I know I've gotten to that optimal load for my gun? When it's shooting the tightest groups at the amount of recoil and velocity (or power factor) I'm looking for? Thank you.

[Hi-Power Jack]

Most people stop at "satisfactory", rather than looking for optimal.

Optimal takes a LOT of experimentation.

One current restraint is the lack of powder selection - most of us

are stuck with 1-2 types of powders.

If you find a load you like, and it works well for your intended use,

I tend to standardize that load, until I read about a "better" load,

and then if I have the time, money and powder, might try it on

a small scale.

[Nickb45]

I went for a combination of all the things listed. I shoot round nose bullets so feeding wasn't an issue, I went between 200 and 230 grain bullets. The next was power factor, if you don't make major there is no point in shooting a 45. After I had loads that made at least 172 power factor I went for accuracy. After I have that figured out I try to stick to that load so I'm not wasting time and recourses trying to "improve" or tweak the load.

[b1gcountry]

I don't think a true optimal load exists. To much variation in conditions, consistency, changing gun, and changing shooter. An 'optimal' load in one brand of brass will likely be different in another brand

[kneelingatlas]

Welcome to the fraternity of handloaders, there are enough variables to make your head spin!

You mentioned a few variables: tight groups, recoil feel and power factor; chances are good you will never find a load which optimizes all three.

You might find the softest shooting load produces terrible groups or that the most accurate load is way over the minimum power factor for the game you want to play.

Other factors like reliable feeding, smoke, clean burning, cost, etc. will also likely influence your "go to load".

To answer your question, you will never know you've found the holy grail of loads with your gun; the best you can hope for is a load (or a handful of loads) you're happy with.

The best thing about this forum is all the knowledge shared so I suggest you first find a popular powder you can get, then pick a bullet, find a starting point and go. Once you have a load which works reasonably well, you can start experimenting.

Do you have any components right now?

Edited January 2, 2015 by kneelingatlas

[jmorris]

Optimum, is different than best, as it implies a set of conditions.

In other words, it depends on what conditions you set.

If you want cheap rounds that go "bang" and that's it, optimum would be the cheapest stuff you can buy and assemble.

If you want the most accurate, that is another set of conditions and much, much more testing. Really a never ending process, for you exclude all other loads as being inferior to your "pet" load, you have to try them all. That means every new bullet, powder, primer, brass, press and die.

Most people make it some where in the middle. They just want a load that runs perfect, doesn't cost too much and is accurate enough for the gas at hand, all without making it a life journey.

[JimmyZip]

Auto-loading pistol rounds?

First find the OAL for the given projectile that allows it to feed and chamber well in your pistol. There may be a max and min, that's good to know. Then see what it takes to get that thing up to your PF with your powder. After that, you can see if adding powder is beneficial to your accuracy, or if adjusting your OAL without causing feeding issues makes an improvement. You will find that the best possible combo for each projectile and powder, and that is pretty much optimal. Best feeding, best accuracy for the given components and given firearm.

Have fun! I love reloading to this day.

[ttolliver]

Hey Splat, welcome!

My approach is to develop every load focused on accuracy while monitoring PF. You may bail out on a powder early if felt recoil is clearly out of line during testing. But generally I evaluate recoil once a round clears the accuracy and PF hurdles.

I start by scanning recommendations here and cross-checking them with reloading manuals where possible so I know where I am in relation to published loads. You need to know when you're going above published loads and take that very seriously. You will run into recommendations here that are above published maximums.

If I figure a given load will likely do what I want in the 3.5gr to 3.7gr range I'll run up 20 each of 5 different powder levels around that sweet spot (20 each at 3.1, 3.3, 3.5, 3.7, and 3.9). By starting that much lower than the expected sweet spot I'm accomplishing 2 things. Most importantly I'm following the rule of starting low and working up. But I'm also intentionally creating a round that should (hopefully) group a little less accurately so that I can clearly see where it gets accurate.

Say a reloading manual says a given powder/projectile can be loaded from 3.0gr to 5.0gr. If you accuracy tested every possibility in that range you'd see a pattern emerge. The lowest powder levels would give you big groups that would progressively dial in to some point and then start getting bigger again. Say that sweet spot was 4.0gr. You'd only see 4.0gr is the most accurate by bracketing it. By going low in my range I try to force that bracket into my results.

With each of those 20 round powder levels I shoot 10 though the chrono and two 5 round groups to check accuracy. If the rounds never group nicely at any powder level, it's back to the drawing board. If they group nicely lower than desired PF, it's back to the drawing board. If they group nicely at a really high PF (and likely high felt recoil), it's back to the drawing board.

But say that you got results you were expecting and 3.5 and 3.7 were both in the PF ballpark and accuracy was best in that range. My next step is to go back with another batch of 100 split evenly between 3.5, 3.6, and 3.7. This gives me enough to run through the chrono again, do a little more accuracy testing and make some recoil comparisons. Commonly there's no distinguishable difference between a couple of those loads for accuracy but there will always be a velocity difference. So you can lean the direction you need for PF margin.

But say you didn't get a decent result out of the first trip. I do all of the testing above at one COAL. If for some reason you are highly motivated to make that particular powder and projectile work, COAL is the next thing to tinker with (assuming you're getting a good crimp). So you could adjust your COAL and figure out a different set of powder levels for the new COAL and run the test again. I almost never tinker with COAL, but the option is there. Once you learn your gun's COAL preference you'll find yourself sticking to that COAL without much variation. At least that's what I've found.

Good luck!

Edited January 3, 2015 by ttolliver

[b1gcountry]

Honestly, this all sounds like an interesting process, but for me personally, my range time is very limited, and I just settle on reliable, and ballpark accuracy and pf. I waste enough time developing these loads that I would not be able to practice or compete if I tried anything more exact.

Also, my powder stores aren't exactly over flowing, so I will not bother for a load I might not be able to reproduce after 4k rounds

[Splat]

Well guys, I really, really thank you for taking the time to respond with the great info you did. Much, much appreciated. I will be saving this thread and printing it out to keep for inspiration and knowledge.

Kneelingatlas, you asked what components I have... here ya go:

Hornady LnL AP

Redding Pro Series Carbide 3-Die Set 45 ACP (w/separate crimp die)

RCBS lock-out die

Hornaday .451 PTX

Lyman .45acp cartridge gauge

Frankford DS750 scale

Frankford bullet puller

I have Bullseye powder, Winchester large pistol primers, Ibejiheads coated bullets in 230g RN BB #2.

I am planning on getting a chrono when the funds come around. Any suggestions?

I know the coated bullets may allow me to run a little less powder than standard jacketed or lead. I have Lyman 49th and Hornady's reloading books. It's one heckuva exciting journey that I'm looking forward to. Much to learn and experience.

Edited January 3, 2015 by Splat

[kneelingatlas]

I used the ProChrono, it's cheap and easy.

It sounds like you have a decent load to start with which is probably in your book.

If you hold the bullet, powder and primer constant, the possibilities are not too overwhelming

[jwhittin]

Hi Splat! I use basically the same setup. It works well once u get it running smoothly. Gotta get that chrono ASAP. U need to know your standard deviation for loading to meet PF. Add a minimum of 2*STD to the PF velocity for your bullet weight. See this months Front Sight magazine for more details.

[Splat]

Well, I finally got my dies dialed in after 11 cases and bullets.... no primers or powders this was just for sizing, belling, seating and crimping. I still have to install the RCBS lock-out die. I've produced my first 5 live rounds and tested them yesterday. I used:

Win once-fired (my gun) brass

Win large primers

230g RB BB#2 polycoated Ibejiheads bullets

3.6g Bullseye

COL: 1.258

crimp: .471

The fed, fired, and ejected fine. I wasn't testing for accuracy, PF, or anything else except safeness and cycling. I think my next move should be loading 5@3.4g, 5@3.6g, 5@3.8g, 5@4.0g and see how they do and this time I'll have my new chrono with me for velocity checks. How does that sound guys?

Edited January 16, 2015 by Splat