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650 vs 1050 to gradually automate


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I've been fighting over this for years and haven't come to a conclusion... so I haven't started reloading.

That's got to stop!

I really want a 1050, and to put feeders and probably an auto drive on it eventually.

But I can't trust something that has such a short warranty compared to the CHEAPER version of it!

Would a 650 be the way to go, or just do the 1050 and hope it doesn't break?

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I'm new to reloading, I have a Square Deal B.

The FAQ has a great breakdown on the difference

http://www.brianenos.com/pages/dillon.html

Pulled from the above link:

Should I get the 650 or the 1050?
A common question: I could probably afford the 1050, but do I really need it?
I asked this question to three friends and long-time reloaders at Dillon Precision. Their answer: If you'll only load one to three-thousand rounds per month, and plan to switch calibers from now and then to frequently - get the 650. If you plan to shoot 50,000 to 60,000 rounds a year (4,000+ rounds/month), especially if don't plan to switch calibers - get the 1050. So, if caliber changes will be involved, lean toward the 650. If you don't plan to switch calibers, and would just like to set down at the machine and crank out some serious ammo when you have a few minutes - get the 1050. One usually knows when they're ready for the 1050. If you're not sure, get the 650.

They do not recommend the 1050 for a newbie at reloading, & it is a commercial machine hence the different warranty.

I do not shoot nearly enough to justify the 1050. YMMV...

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I have both, made steps towards automating the 650 but switched to the 1050 in the end.

The 650 decked out makes for a good manual machine.

If it had a swage built in and seated primers at the same end of the stroke (not to mention to a preset depth) like the 1050, I might have stuck with it for automation but this was the direction I went for an autonomous reloader.

Edited by jmorris
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I started with a SDB in the late 80s. Somewhere along the line I picked up 2 650s (one from Brian and the other one used ). I should have been, and was very satisfied with the 650s. However, I absolutely hate swaging primer pockets. Even with the SS600.

I bought a 1050 with the idea of only loading 223 on it. I love it! I never intended on using it for anything else. Now I'm finding myself picking up Hornady die lock rings and other necessary items for caliber conversion. Do I load enough ammunition to justify the 1050? Probably not. Do I regret buying the 1050? Not at all!

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I love my 1050's.

If you are loading or processing a lot of brass that requires swaging, 1050 is the only way to go.

If you aren't loading ammo that needs to be swaged, I think a 650 is probably plenty of machine.

With a bullet feeder on both, you will be slightly faster on the 1050 compared to a 650 due to the primer seating on the stroke vs. having to push on the 650.

I still cant bring myself to setup my auto drive for loading and rely on my manual 1050 for all loading operations. I guess I just like the control I get with the manual and loading and that I can stop mid stroke if something doesnt feel right.

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The 1050 only takes me 20 minutes to change calibers from 9mm to 40 cal, or visa versa. It is more fun to change out than my 550. The only real downside, is the cost of the machine and conversion parts and toolheads. My brother just got a 650, which is really nice, but it is very odd to use after running a 550 and 1050.

The 1050 is a beast and is built like a small block Chevy. The parts are simple and tough and not that hard to work on. Priming on the downstroke is priceless. I forget to prime on the 650, because the auto indexing makes me think I am using the 1050 that I am used to. When I do prime on the 650, I try to index the machine afterward and find that it is already done. The 650 priming system is also different than the 550 and 1050. The adjustable priming depth on the 1050 is also great, as I don't have to push hard on the handle to make sure I fully seated the primer.

I load 40 and 9mm the most, but I would load the others on the 1050 in a heartbeat if I had the extras for it. Swaging by hand sucks and I would like to do 223 ammo on the 1050, but I can't quite justify the expense.

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If you process brass that need swage then 1050 is what you need. 650 is plenty of equipment to process/load non crimped brass....the NO B.S. warranty makes it even nicer.

1x Dillon 1050 Fortch autodrive

1x Dillon 1050 manual

1x Dillon 650 manual

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I don't think the 1050 is the right machine for someone loading several different calibers. I keep two 1050-s for the calibers I use most, and never change them. I also have two 650-s, one set with small, one with large primers, for the assortment of other, less used calibers. Call me lazy, but this works for me. Changing the tool head on a 650 is just so much easier.

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I have never seen any value in autodrive, unless you need more than 4000 round a month, or so. I consume about 2500, and doing so on a 1050 with a bullet feeder takes so little time, it is purely inconsequantial.

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I love my 650 with my MBF and casefeeder, but if I had the opportunity to do it again, I would have went with the 1050. Don't worry about the lack of warranty, Dillon's are solid machines.

For me, I disagree with the round-count as being the deciding factor, to me it's time. I don't particularly enjoy the reloading process when you're loading a large batch, so the faster the better. Having said that, the only thing I REALLY wish Dillon would add to a 650 is a swager. I would opt for the 1050 just for that reason alone. BUT, the 650 is an awesome machine and either way you go, you won't be disappointed.

Edited by polizei1
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I have never seen any value in autodrive, unless you need more than 4000 round a month, or so. I consume about 2500, and doing so on a 1050 with a bullet feeder takes so little time, it is purely inconsequantial.

Then you've never considered processing brass or reloading for a living. They have their places.

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Thanks for the replies.

What is the time to change calibers (say 9mm to .223) on a 650 compared to a 1050.... if you have all the quick change stuff on?

I keep reading that one takes a lot longer than the other, unless you have the quickchange option, but no one compares that.

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I have never seen any value in autodrive, unless you need more than 4000 round a month, or so. I consume about 2500, and doing so on a 1050 with a bullet feeder takes so little time, it is purely inconsequantial.

Then you've never considered processing brass or reloading for a living. They have their places.

I clearly was not talking about a commercial production.

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I have never seen any value in autodrive, unless you need more than 4000 round a month, or so. I consume about 2500, and doing so on a 1050 with a bullet feeder takes so little time, it is purely inconsequantial.

Then you've never considered processing brass or reloading for a living. They have their places.

I clearly was not talking about a commercial production.

I didn't figure you had when you qualified your statement with "unless you need more than 4000 round a month, or so". A commercial reloader that is processing brass or reloading less than 4,000 a month has a bad business plan. :goof:

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I have never seen any value in autodrive, unless you need more than 4000 round a month, or so.

I have a lot more equipment than I need but I don't own a motorcycle, boat, RV, Rolex or other stuff folks generally blow more money on than they get use out of.

Different strokes for different folks.

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Thanks for the replies.

What is the time to change calibers (say 9mm to .223) on a 650 compared to a 1050.... if you have all the quick change stuff on?

I keep reading that one takes a lot longer than the other, unless you have the quickchange option, but no one compares that.

Once you know what you are doing I would say 15-20 minutes including resetting the swage rod. I have 2 swage rods 1 set for 5.56 brass and one set for 9mm. I just pull the pin and swap them out and its set. I usually take a few extra minutes to clean and grease everything when I have it apart. I also have 2 powder throwers: one for rifle and one for pistol and I typically never change my throw weight or powder so they are set.

I have a set of long ball end hex sockets I got from Home Depot and a ratchet handle for them. I also have a big socket, extension and ratchet handle specifically for the tool head bolt. Once you have the right tools it makes it easy.

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I don't reload enough in a year to warrant a 1050 but I got one anyhow.

It makes reloading my .223 fast and easy.

I like to do reloading in batches of a couple of thousand every few months and the 1050 does it right.

I wouldn't worry about the warranty. That should not be a deal breaker. The machine is sturdy and well made and if you occasionally have to replace a part it is not going to break the bank. I had a couple of parts that needed replacing after the warranty ended and Dillon didn't charge me when I explained what happen.

If you can afford one pull the trigger on it and you won't regret it.

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