Cd662 Posted December 5, 2014 Share Posted December 5, 2014 Has anyone actually tried one of these? Someone told me awhile back that they're marketed as "extended". I was curious how much longer they were compared to the factory, old style firing pin noses and if anyone saw a tangible benefit (decreased action potential) by using them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bosshoss Posted December 5, 2014 Share Posted December 5, 2014 I have been replacing broken stock pins with these. They are made of S7 tool steel. They come with a new rivet and spring. The N frame pins are . 010 longer than stock. I haven't tried to see how much you can lighten the pull weight with the longer pin. Should be able to lighten it some but won't make a huge difference. Very well made. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alecmc Posted December 5, 2014 Share Posted December 5, 2014 Paul, How hard are they to change out? I realize if you are at a match and you break a firing pin your pretty much screwed score wise, But is it worth keeping a spare in your bag ? Easy enough to change out at the safe table ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seanc Posted December 5, 2014 Share Posted December 5, 2014 Paul, How hard are they to change out? I realize if you are at a match and you break a firing pin your pretty much screwed score wise, But is it worth keeping a spare in your bag ? Easy enough to change out at the safe table ? ask bob about the 2012 irc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bountyhunter Posted December 5, 2014 Share Posted December 5, 2014 (edited) I did take some data on the "extended" firing pins used in the MIM guns a long time back when they first came out: SW made a bunch of slightly undersized FPs back in the day and some had ignition problems. The "good" ones were about .494" as I recall (been a few years, that's the number I remember). So, there are two cases: an "extended" pin improves ignition in cases with bad (short) pins, not in guns with the good stock pins (.494"). A good stock pin will also give the same benefit. I did take data on several K frames (model 66) comparing the extended pin to stock to see if it allowed reducing mainspring force and it did not give improvement. Reducing hammer mass does because it increases strike energy, extended pin didn't. YMMV Edited December 5, 2014 by bountyhunter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bountyhunter Posted December 5, 2014 Share Posted December 5, 2014 (edited) Paul, How hard are they to change out? I realize if you are at a match and you break a firing pin your pretty much screwed score wise, But is it worth keeping a spare in your bag ? Easy enough to change out at the safe table ? If you use extended pins, you should probably carry spares. They are notorious for breaking. C+S even advised against dry firing without snap caps. Edited December 5, 2014 by bountyhunter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bosshoss Posted December 5, 2014 Share Posted December 5, 2014 Alec they are not to bad if you have the tools to do it. A towel to keep from losing parts and I use a punch to drive out the old rivet and I have a oversize punch with a angle ground on the tip. I have a hardened block with holes in it to rest the hammer on to drive out the rivet. Then replace the firing pin and spring and put the new rivet in and lay hammer on solid part of block and with punch with the taper tap 1side until it is flared and turn over and do the other side. You can usually reuse the rivet if you're careful getting it out. I have seen old Phillips screwdrivers ground down to put the flair in the rivet. IIRC the punch I use to drive the rivet out is . 090 Probably take about 15 minutes to take gun apart and replace and reassemble. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cd662 Posted December 6, 2014 Author Share Posted December 6, 2014 I am overhauling all my gear over the off season with new main springs and reworked actions. I don't know how long my firing pin is because I never removed it. The gun has probably had two previous owners so I wonder how many thousands and thousands of cycles have been on that one firing pin. On the one hand, if it's not broke, don't fix it. On the other hand, if the Power Customs firing pin is AT LEAST an equivalent to the factory, I don't suppose it would be a bad idea to install. I just don't have the punch to make it happen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted December 6, 2014 Share Posted December 6, 2014 Quick pro tip: The hardened pointed tip of the Brownell's vice-grip-style 1911 plunger tube staking tool works perfectly to expand S&W hammer nose rivets. A quick squeeze from both sides makes a perfect crimp! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted December 6, 2014 Share Posted December 6, 2014 Quick pro tip #2: If you think you need a longer hammer nose, simply remove the stock hammer nose, grind down the hammer face slightly, then replace the stock hammer nose. Voila. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cd662 Posted December 6, 2014 Author Share Posted December 6, 2014 If you want to write a book full of your pro tips regarding revolver work, I would buy it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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