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What to look for in a used RL1050?


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I recently happened upon two RL1050's for sale locally, one in 45 ACP and one in 9mm for ~$900 EA. I do know they were at one time used for commercial reloading but don't know any approximate round count. Is there any wear items or parts to look for specifically that would make you want to pass on a used 1050? Are there any parts that are no longer made?

I don't load longer rifle calibers and would likely dedicate the machine to one caliber.

Edited by mizer67
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bearings in the press legs, but those can be changed and relatively cheap.

The main shaft, crank arm and crank shaft would also be places I would look for damage. All of those parts can be replaced, but you could QUICKLY get into the money for a new S1050. Checking all those things(bearings, crank, main shaft, etc...) can be a complete machine break down to see whats up(especially the bearings), which the owner might not be to happy about or might not allow at all.

I would also look all over every part of the frame for any cracks.

Expect to change out every spring on the machine too, which isnt terribly expensive.

At 900 they would be a good price IF you didnt have to do anything to them but clean them up and grease them. IF they require any major parts replacement, like I said, you can get really close to the price of a new S1050 pretty quickly.

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I load on a mid 90's RL 1050 with way more handle pulls then I can count. It is still running fine with normal maintenance.

I think I agree with rjacobs if there is no major rebuild then sounds like a fair deal doe dedicated presses. I do know that here on Benos they won't last long at that price. However check them over carefully as the bearing rebuild kit is in the 300$ range alone. I want one but don't need it yet so I haven't bought one....

Good luck and let us know what you do and how it works out.

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I bought a used RL 1050 -- one of the first models with nickel toolhead. It didn't have the grease zerts in the connecting rod and the previous owner (not a commercial reloader, just active hobbyist) was too lazy to disassemble and grease it often enough, so the crankshaft journal is worn out and I need to order a new connecting rod assembly, something like $300... The press still works, but there is some play and I think I need to get the replacement parts to avoid any further wear.

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Personally, I don't see a problem with a little play. I would buy both quick like a bunny and be sure to get all other parts and accessories I could. As long as the shell plate, case, and tool head come into alignment, things are good as far as I am concerned.

I mean, I have used the $20 Lee Reloading Press to load. It has slop, but the ammunition it produces (slowly and with more effort) is just as accurate as from my Forster Co-Ax, RockChucker, or 1050s.

Right now, if you can find an operational 1050 for under $1000, it's a good deal.

I bought my three 1050s this way and have had no real issues—other than someday I will take the case collators in to Dillon as I suspect they are missing the arm/spring/whatever that helps to knock "stuck" cases out of the feed plate (I get the occasional jam and see pictures of the collators that have a bent metal piece or spring that mine are missing). Since they came from three different sources, the "thingy" might also be more trouble than it is worth for all I know.

So far, Dillon has treated all three as though they had the "No BS Warranty"

If you get the press, buy the DVD and watch what the narrator does even more than listen to what he says.

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  • 3 months later...

I know this thread is old, but in case someone finds it: I paid 800 for my RL1050 locally, came with some dies, brass 223 and 45acp and a brass tumbler. I spent the money to buy a few missing parts and a conversion to 223 and have never looked back.

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