RDA Posted October 8, 2014 Share Posted October 8, 2014 Mike, I had thought about responding to this thread since it started but you have a fair number of responses already. But, if you want to see any of these options first hand, let me know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MG08 Posted October 12, 2014 Share Posted October 12, 2014 I've seen the thread about the micrometer powder bar upgrade and the overwhelming response was that it is a worthwhile upgrade. However, there are several other which I'd like to get opinions on. 1) The first is a camming pin replacement. the camming pin scratches against the case insert slide as I move up and down and almost sounds like it is going to wear away the material. The upgrade pin has a small roller bearing which supposedly eliminates the need for any lubrication and would eliminate the scratching noise heard when operating the press. This kit has the pin I am talking about along with other parts http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dillon-XL-650-Premium-Performance-Improvments-Kit-/321399781658?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ad4eb791a 2) Low mass detent ball and new spring. I've seen these separately rather than part of the kit as above. No idea if these actually work as advertised. 3) Shellplate bearing kit. again, there is a "bushing" shown in the kit above which to me actually makes more sense. However, I have seen the larger needle bearing kits. Are these more trouble than they are worth or a great idea and must have? 4) Roller lever. I know most people recommend the Dillon roller lever but I cam across this one on eBay. http://www.ebay.com/itm/ERGO-roller-lever-for-Dillon-650-reloading-press-/261500338350?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3ce2a280ae made by in line fabrication, the handle is bent so that the handle is up closer to your natural standing position so that you do not need to bend at all (or lean) 5) spent primer chute kit. this kit includes a bolt on plastic part that a hose attaches to in order to funnel spent primers to a larger jar or bottle. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dillon-650-Spent-Primer-Chute-Kit-for-Dillon-650-Reloading-Press-/171385365409?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27e75d23a1 6) Tool head lights. I've seen various versions of lighting including one that looks far superior to others. the light kit consists of a strip of lights by the powder check station and a machined light that fits in the center of the toolhead and is removable for toolhead changes. http://inlinefabrication.com/collections/dillon/products/skylighttm-led-lighting-kit-for-the-dillon-650 The company in line fabrication also has a host of other upgrades, so if you have used one of them and can either recommend or say forget it, the input would be very helpful. thank you. Well, I have 3 650s, and 3 550s. I hate to change calibers - just the way I load. I have been using a dillon 650 for close to 17 yrs, and a 550 for close to 12. I have tried a bunch of mods, done some myself, and been through the aggravations that everyone has faced. (never had a primer detonate thank God) Caming pin- looks like a good idea, tried one. It seemed to smooth out the stroke a little. Then I greased another with Militech weapons grease. seemed to improve it as much. I could go either way on it. Light weight ball and lighter spring- tried that in one 650. I could not really tell a difference.- The bronze bearing seemed a bigger influence. I have them in a couple machines and not the others. Cant tell without taking them apart. Bearing kit - I tried the needle bearing - on one loader. Liked it, then decided to look at the bronze bushing. I found that ACE hardware carries the exact one, in their "really coll little parts you can never find" section. goes for about a buck. All in all, I found my presses seemed smoother with the bronze bearing. I have a spare needle bearing if someone wants it. Roller handle - All my loaders got them if they did not have them. I am tall, and loaders are set up on a tall Sams club bench, on strong mounts. I dont have to bend that way. Rollers are easier on my wrist. Spent primer chute- tried to make my own. Succeeded, but seemed more troublesome and I did not find the primers to be a big problem for me. I just put a slice of Duct tape over the opening and they stay in. Mostly. Lights- good deal. There are cheap ways to go, some do it your self, but I cut a deal with one of the vendors for several sets. Personally I like them. My loading area is well lit, but the strip lights really help. All loaders got them. As an oh by the way, Northern Tool carries the strip lights and transformers pretty cheap. Always looking for more great ideas ...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmorris Posted October 12, 2014 Share Posted October 12, 2014 (edited) I also used tape on the bucket for a long time. Some years later I just tacked a section of 1/2" box tube to the factory and a sliver of .060" metal to the front. To attach a tube, you can just drill out the base of a .44 mag/SPL case and slide between the stock bracket and casting. You can also do this with a 38/357 case on the SD. Edited October 12, 2014 by jmorris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeoffB Posted October 12, 2014 Share Posted October 12, 2014 #4, make your own #5 with some tubing and a spent case. I have had that for years and it works like a champ. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Signess Posted June 20, 2015 Share Posted June 20, 2015 (edited) I've seen the thread about the micrometer powder bar upgrade and the overwhelming response was that it is a worthwhile upgrade. However, there are several other which I'd like to get opinions on. 1) The first is a camming pin replacement. the camming pin scratches against the case insert slide as I move up and down and almost sounds like it is going to wear away the material. The upgrade pin has a small roller bearing which supposedly eliminates the need for any lubrication and would eliminate the scratching noise heard when operating the press. This kit has the pin I am talking about along with other parts http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dillon-XL-650-Premium-Performance-Improvments-Kit-/321399781658?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ad4eb791a 2) Low mass detent ball and new spring. I've seen these separately rather than part of the kit as above. No idea if these actually work as advertised. 3) Shellplate bearing kit. again, there is a "bushing" shown in the kit above which to me actually makes more sense. However, I have seen the larger needle bearing kits. Are these more trouble than they are worth or a great idea and must have? 4) Roller lever. I know most people recommend the Dillon roller lever but I cam across this one on eBay. http://www.ebay.com/itm/ERGO-roller-lever-for-Dillon-650-reloading-press-/261500338350?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3ce2a280ae made by in line fabrication, the handle is bent so that the handle is up closer to your natural standing position so that you do not need to bend at all (or lean) 5) spent primer chute kit. this kit includes a bolt on plastic part that a hose attaches to in order to funnel spent primers to a larger jar or bottle. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dillon-650-Spent-Primer-Chute-Kit-for-Dillon-650-Reloading-Press-/171385365409?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27e75d23a1 6) Tool head lights. I've seen various versions of lighting including one that looks far superior to others. the light kit consists of a strip of lights by the powder check station and a machined light that fits in the center of the toolhead and is removable for toolhead changes. http://inlinefabrication.com/collections/dillon/products/skylighttm-led-lighting-kit-for-the-dillon-650 The company in line fabrication also has a host of other upgrades, so if you have used one of them and can either recommend or say forget it, the input would be very helpful. thank you. I made my own spent primer chute fix and ski-jump LIVE primer fix...both for under $10. Here are the pics...pretty self-explanatory. Parts are from Lowes. First one is a garden hose adapter (plumbing supplies part of store) with the inside brass barb attachment filed down until it fit inside the mounting bracket for the blue cup. I also filed it down in height to make it thinner and easier to screw into the press with original screws. For $7, this sucker isn't going anyehere. Get several feet of hose to atach to a peanut butter or mayo jar. The ski-jump fix just involved getting the pictured splicer nylon barb (same department at Lowes) and cutting it in half. Drill the ski-jump and JB Weld the sanded half of barb (with the "washer" part) to the ski-jump, then use the other part to make a stopper for your hose that holds the live primers (you need to JB a piece of scrap plastic on the open end of the barb to seal the stopper). I also trimmed the nose off the blue cup, and JB Welded the built-up edges of the bottom of the jump in place, to prevent live primers from rolling off the bottom of the ramp. Black paint makes this mess look good! Use an inch or two of the hose from the first fix and make sure you keep emptying it out regularly...you don't want to mix primers after caliber changes, and you don't want a bunch of live primers hanging together for too long a time. Both fixes took @ an hour while watching TV or a movie...easier than it looks, and saved @ $60 in retail fixes and shipping...that's almost a die set or caliber conversion. http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w4/signessmonster/Dillon%20650%20mod/IMG_0343_zpsyckumc4j.jpg http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w4/signessmonster/Dillon%20650%20mod/IMG_0346_zpskxqouo0o.jpg http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w4/signessmonster/Dillon%20650%20mod/IMG_0352_zpsqhr44lwf.jpg http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w4/signessmonster/Dillon%20650%20mod/IMG_0356_zps3esawueo.jpg http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w4/signessmonster/Dillon%20650%20mod/IMG_0358_zps4qjesfyr.jpg http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w4/signessmonster/Dillon%20650%20mod/IMG_0363_zpsnrn7dyhr.jpg http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w4/signessmonster/Dillon%20650%20mod/IMG_0364_zpspwmo6gwo.jpg http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w4/signessmonster/Dillon%20650%20mod/IMG_0365_zps5mprsgjh.jpg http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w4/signessmonster/Dillon%20650%20mod/IMG_0367_zps3uyrpnht.jpg http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w4/signessmonster/Dillon%20650%20mod/IMG_0379_zpsczogfkb1.jpg Edited June 20, 2015 by Signess Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Signess Posted June 20, 2015 Share Posted June 20, 2015 (edited) And the LIVE primer ski-jump pics: When you're done, sand it and paint it black! Edited June 20, 2015 by Signess Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlightMurse Posted June 21, 2015 Share Posted June 21, 2015 I am still very new to the 650 game and have only loaded 1000 rounds on mine so far, but I ordered the "how it should be" which came with the roller handle. I haven't tried the alternative but I think the Dillon roller handle is worth it just for the aesthetics. I also installed the primer chute from inline when I initially set up the press, it works as advertised and I have no complaints. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L3324temp Posted June 21, 2015 Share Posted June 21, 2015 The roller handle is the only upgrade I would recommend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bfalcon00 Posted June 22, 2015 Share Posted June 22, 2015 Number 3 was one of the best upgrades I've ever purchased for anything. I got the one from inline fabrication. The number 4 upgrade I'm still on the fence about. Had it a few months and neither like nor hate it really. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimk60 Posted June 25, 2015 Share Posted June 25, 2015 (edited) I'll add my $6.50 1. Don't have, just use lube. What I've read here, I don't think would use it. 2. Low mass detent ball and spring. Have it, it did improve the snap, but did not stop it. 3. Bearing kit. Have it, love it. The secret is to get the proper tension on the shell plate. Adjust so that there is very little or no wobble on the shellplate, but it still turns with just a little resistance. EDIT: It is also important that your ring indexer, part 20 on page 52, operates correctly with part 18, indexer block, page 48. If you look under the shell plate on the left side as you operate the press, you will see how it works. As the ring indexer moves the shell plate forward, there is an incline that operates against the indexer block. The ring indexer should reach the end of its travel at the same time the the shell plat indexes on the index ball. If adjusted correctly, this will reduce shell plate snap as much as the low-mass detent ball. 4. Ergonomic roller handle. Don't have. may get one just because of the positive reports in this thread, as I usually stand to load, but will usually sit on tall stool for de-priming only. 5. Spent primer shoot. Designed my own. Used aluminum tube compression fitting made to use with plastic tubing. Fitted up under the existing fitting, tightened, add friction fit tube, ran tube through bench into jar. Works perfectly. 6. Tool head lights. Don't have, looking for good price performance locally. Based on this thread, will try Northern Tool today. Edited June 25, 2015 by Jimk60 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b1gcountry Posted June 30, 2015 Share Posted June 30, 2015 Instead of the roller handle I put a baby sock on the stock handle ball part and It made a world of difference Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now