Cerakote vs. Type II Anodizing?

[ihocky2]

I have a few projects I am starting to plan for the winter. One is a complete build for my wife and one is a 3G upper for me. My wife really likes the purple from Sun Devil but they are over priced. I also thought that along with a well functioning upper for myself I would like to add a little flair, so I would like to have it done in red. My options for those colors are either Type II Anodize or Cerakote.

Can anyone that has experience with either coating provide some insight on how they have held up. Dump barrels and rubs along barricades I think either will tolerate fairly decent. My biggest concern is the case deflector. My current upper has a nice coating of brass after each outing. I would think the Cerakote would wear out pretty quickly there, but I don't know how well Type II anodizing would hold up either.

[Loves2Shoot]

Anodizing will wear better as it hardens the surface of the aluminum and the color comes from the dye used during the process.

[T Bacus]

Their price for a billet machined upper and lower anodized in a specialty color seems pretty reasonable to me.

[mulrick]

To be honest, As a person who Cerakote's on the side for a couple local gun store and FFL's, I'm not all that impressed with the product.

Dont get me wrong, it goes on as advertised, but its wear resistance isn't much better DuraCoat which can be applied at home. They both take a good amount of prep, and the Cerakote is harder faster, so that means you can put it together sooner. But so far in my testing I have't seen much of a difference. This is with factory applied Cerakote as well.

I kinda like the look of worn in guns so I don't mind it. But if you want it to continue looking pretty, get it Type III, no question about it.

[ihocky2]

Thanks for the information. I know some people love to get the Cerakote because it is supposed to be durable, but I still look at it as a 2-part finish. It adds corrosion protection but does nothing to harden the base metal. I was hoping for someone that had first hand experience with the Cerakote, thank you.

The Sun Devil products are nice, but I am still one the believes a forged receiver is stronger than billet. I can do a receiver set from Aero as 7075-T6 which is a little harder to start with and have it anodized for about $200 total. Plus the Sun Devil being beefier should mean heavier, I never really compared the weight of the two so it is just an estimate based on the overall shape.

[IronicTwitch]

I had my lgs duracoat my magwell for me...that was a silly idea. A single dry fire session and it's all scratched up and wearing off. I'll buff it off with some fine sandpaper and see if it can look cool. Thanks for highlighting the anodizing vs cerakote toughness, that was my next step for doing the frame. I'll take a look at springer precision too. Great info guys.

[Colinp]

According to cerakote, NIC you can apply cerakote directly to a freshly anodized surface without a problem. The surface of anodized material is pourus enough to give the cerakote a good bond. I have a gieslle mk1 rail that was degreased with acetone and Cerakoted.

I had similar issues with the finish wearing prematurely, but after about 2 dozen sessions, of trial and error I'm finnaly pleased The result and durability if the finish.

[openclassterror]

The conversation keeps bouncing between type II and type III anodizing. Type III is thicker and deeper, due to a change in the application process (primarily in temperature and duration of the bath). However, it cannot be colored with the same dyes. Undyed, it is kind of a bronze color. Black dye can be used, but depending on the alloy and processing time color can be various shades of gray to charcoal to black. Those are the only color options. Type II can be many colors, but the hardened surface is much thinner. Anodizing is simply oxidized aluminum, accomplished quickly via electrochemical reaction. Aluminum oxide is hard and abrasion resistant, as evidenced by its use as a sandpaper abrasive. Cerakote does nothing to harden the material surface. If the aluminum is abrasive blasted before anodizing (as is typical for type III) it is porous, and cerakote adheres well. Type II is usually done to polished or tumbled parts. If you abrasive blast before type II anodizing, the anodizing is very dull looking and colors come out bland, so it is not typically done. If you Cerakote over type II, it does not bond nearly as well to the smoother surface. Utmost surface strength would be accomplished with type III anodize, undyed then Cerakoted. (Cerakote Red over black anodize comes out dull and dark, and black shows through at sharp edges). Cerakote will eventually wear off, but hard anodizing underneath will remain. Type II is thin and scratches about as easily as the Cerakote, but then there is nothing hard underneath it.