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SBE2 cycling issue

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I have a sbe2 I got for hunting and decided to try it for 3 gun also. I had a handful of 3"duck loads not cycle and when I tried 1 1/8oz 2 3/4 dram target loads it wouldn't cycle at all. Ended up putting recoil spring from an m2 in it and it still won't run. The spring from the m2 had no problem with 1oz loads either. Any suggestions or just send it into benelli?

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I meant 3 dram 1 1/8oz loads. The m2 spring reliably handled 1oz 2 3/4 dram.

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by "not cycle at all" do you mean everything in the cycling function didn't happen or just one part of the function??? if nothing at all, check to see if your inertia spring is still there or broken!!

Trapr

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I just put a stock m2 spring in I just replaced. The bolt is not going back far enough to grab the next shell. I might get one of 10 grab next shell.

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Both springs are well broke in with waterfowl loads.

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I think he means take the bolt apart, clean it, and check the inertia spring inside the bolt.

I had a sbe2 that worked with light loads most of the time, but after messing and messing with it I couldn't get it to be reliable enough for 3gun.

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Ok I got ya. I did go through everything and cleaned it. All looks good.

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My SBE2 work fine with all light loads. Maybe about 2000 rounds trough it. I am just oiling the rail and the bolt real good...

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Yeah my other sbe2 runs anything too. Only difference is ones a 24" ones a 26". I just figured a lighter recoil spring would help but it didn't.

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did you take the bolt apart and maybe forget to put the inertia spring back in???

or did it fall out without you noticing??? it happens.........

also is it possible that you got the recoil spring tube slightly ascew???

torqued to one side a bit??? this will hamper full travel.

also check your recoil spring piston in the tube did it get dropped or slightly scratched and now drags, slightly????

If the gun isn't cycling back far enough it will most likely be something binding??

did you possibly drive the shell catch pin too deeply and it drags across the bottom of the bolt??

Is the tail of the bolt cracked??

or is a rivet loose??

or is the pin holding it in place broken or not seated properly??

If it was working fine one day and you took it apart,..... most likely you forgot something??? sometimes its a really simple thing.

If it was working properly one day and it sat unused and then suddenly now it won't work,.......most likely something broke or froze up???

Trapr

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did you take the bolt apart and maybe forget to put the inertia spring back in???

or did it fall out without you noticing??? it happens.........

also is it possible that you got the recoil spring tube slightly ascew???

torqued to one side a bit??? this will hamper full travel.

also check your recoil spring piston in the tube did it get dropped or slightly scratched and now drags, slightly????

If the gun isn't cycling back far enough it will most likely be something binding??

did you possibly drive the shell catch pin too deeply and it drags across the bottom of the bolt??

Is the tail of the bolt cracked??

or is a rivet loose??

or is the pin holding it in place broken or not seated properly??

If it was working fine one day and you took it apart,..... most likely you forgot something??? sometimes its a really simple thing.

If it was working properly one day and it sat unused and then suddenly now it won't work,.......most likely something broke or froze up???

Trapr

In addition to all that check the trigger group and make sure the hammer can rotate are far back as it needs to both engage the sear (stay cocked) and allow the bolt carrier to travel freely when the action cycles. A piece of shot, buffer material, chunk of gravel of wood, a hard shell bug, etc. inside the trigger group ( all junk I have found in their before ) can bind the hammer and cause additional pressure on the action’s cycling

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Thanks trapr! Thats the advice I was hoping for. I will check it all ovrer tomorrow when I can and post back my findings. This has been an issue from the day it was new. I just tried the recoil spring since that made most sense to me anyway. The gun is a year old and all stock yet. Wasn't going to modify it unless it ran flawless.

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So I had a chance to look at the gun and it seems as if the spring that pushes against the bolt release is so long or stiff my lifter doesn't always flip when the tab is pressed. I have noticed from day one that it has been super hard to push in the bolt release. That is the only thing that looked out of the ordinary. Would that explain anything?

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I do remember once having to replace a SBE shell latch spring because it was about a coil too long and would not give enough clearance (when compressed) for the shell rim to slide back into place when coming out of the mag tube. That gun gun would run some brands of shells, but not others (rim diameters can vary a bit)

Push a shell or two into place by hand (with the trigger group removed) and see if they bind tightly between the shell latch and receiver wall.

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I can see where the rim of shell must be rubbing the receiver. Also seems to rub at 2 points at the shell catch lip and near where the shell latch spring pushes against the shell latch. The wear from the rim rubbing extends all the way to the rear most portion of the shell latch.

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Would that possibly be the cause of the issue? Last night out of 10 rounds only one cycled. I had to pull back bolt to get rest of rounds chambered. Also when I had the gun in the Swamp the first couple times if I bumped the but of the gun on the boat a shell would come out of the magazine.

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if the spring is not placed properly in the gun or its managed to move from its normal location, .......which can be done. it might cause enough bind to keep shells from exiting the magtube properly, and also cause the shell stop to not function properly and allow rounds to slip past. i've never seen it,.... but the spring can be moved very easily if the right tool or twig gets into the right spot, the spring is a relatively light spring.

Now the bolt release is the button on the shell stop, when you mention "tab" what are you refering to?? do you have an aftermarket "tab" installed to allow more surface area on the "button" like an RNT tab, or DMW, or Arredondo???

Your lifter is "flipped" by the bolt moving back forward into battery, not by pushing in on the bolt release. If your bolt is locked back, when it goes forward there is a small notch that contacts the "carrier dog" (shark dorsal fin looking thing) in the trigger group that cams forward and down and lifts (flips) the lifter. If there is binding there it can be from the silver tab just in front of the trigger on the right side of the gun which does 2 things, when pushed in. 1) if gun is empty it allows you to lock the bolt to the rear. 2) if ammo in magtube it will move the shell stop out of the way and allow a round out of the magtube and onto the lifter.

It is quite easy to get the bolt lock/shell release (silver tab) out of position with its relationship to the shell stop/bolt release, this can cause you to have to use way too much pressure than needed to operate the bolt release/shell stop. it may also cause excessive binding on the lifter and keep it from operating properly, which in turn could cause the incomplete bolt cycling you seem to be having.

Have you removed your trigger group from the gun??

Have you taken the trigger group apart??

Have you replaced the lifter with a welded up one??

Have you removed the bolt release/shell stop??

.................. if so you could have easily gotten the parts out of the proper positioning, its easy to do and easy to remedy if thats the case.

trapr

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The tab I referred to was the lip of the shell release that keeps the round in magazine. This is only a year old. Had not been stripped once. These issues have been from day one. I had the dealer take everything apart and check it and replace the recoil spring. I have a few benellis I had to double check all parts and alignment. This one feels and looks totally different in the operation and of the bolt release/ shell stop. It is pushed out further than the other 3 guns. Would trying a new shell stop spring or clipping the existing be advised or should it be sent in?

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Don't clip it, !!!!! you can put it between the jaws of a set of pliers and crush it, this will make it shorter and weaken it slightly. just use one hand to close the pliers and close tight, ONCE, and then stop. If you ruin the spring, its the same one used on the M1/M2 so its no big deal to replace.

the shell stop on a SBE does seem to come out more than on an M1/M2 but its because the gun uses 3.5" shells so the pivot point is different and the shell stop is longer than the M1/M2, or at least it should be.

If the dealer took the gun apart they could have easily misaligned the parts, and the parts could have come that way from the distributor if they took it apart, or maybe it was a friday afternoon or monday morning gun and it simply got put together wrong. As I said earlier the spring is a very light spring, if you need to push really hard on the bolt release to get it to do its job, then something is misaligned. My guess would be something in the trigger group/bolt release relationship

trapr

Edited by bigbrowndog

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Thanks, I will try and compress the spring. I may just end up sending it to benelli if that don't help. The guy that initially took it apart didn't see anything he thought was out of the ordinary and when I compared to the other 2 sbe2's I really didn't either except the shell latch being stiffer really.

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Did he take the shell latch out? It kinda sounds like to me either the spring behind the shell match is in the wrong spot or there's something stuck back there that's not supposed to be. Drive the roll pin out and out it back together, see what happens.

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Yes shell latch was removed and iits all in correctly. Everything is the same now as it was before it was completely gone through looking to see what the problem may be. These issues have occurred from day one. Even with 3" full power waterfowl loads, just not as frequently.

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