XL650 first time .223 setup

[Prebaned]

Hi all,

Getting ready to do 223 reloading on the 650 for the first time. I want to make a prep tool head and a load tool head set up. I read some information on the inter-webs regarding the resizing. From what I understand the Dillon trim die is also a size die for the RT1200. So with that said do I really need the Dillon resize/decapping die?

I would like to run this setup on the 650 prep toolhead for 223.

Clean and DCL the brass

station 1 universal Lee decapping die,

2 blank,

3 RT1200 trimmer

4 blank

5 Lyman M die just to very slightly bell the mouth

Tumble the lube off

650 reloading toolhead

Station 1 universal Lee decapping die

2 powder

3 powder check

4 redding comp pro seater

5 Lee FCD for slight crimp if needed

The universal decapping die to knock out any media in the flash hole.

I would rather not buy the Dillon decapper if I do not need it.

TIA

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[Scott Steele]

That would work. The only difference on my setup is on station 1 on prep. htead I use a Dillon full length sizer and decaper. I use it to resize about ~90% but mainly utilize the decamping pin for the expander ball to take any dents out of the neck.

This expander ball makes the neck round again if needed so in station 3 the 1200 can trim correctly.

Edited March 26, 2014 by Scott Steele

[D.Hayden]

Might be just me.. I've never known anyone to bell the case mouth on a .223

And I find it easier to size the case 100% with the Dillon die in Station one, than adjusting the Dillon trimmer to size the cases

[RiggerJJ]

There are lots of ways to get to the final product, best is to try em all and see what you like best...and it may make a difference if you are loading for precision BR type ammo, or feeding an AR for 3gun, or somewhere inbetween.

I use Dillon lube, and a Dillon full length carbide sizing die with decapper that does about 75% of the sizing. Then I finish the sizing with the trim die. When the case comes out of the trim, its fully sized and ready to load after tumbling the lube off, except...

I use the 1050 swage holddown rod/die to bell the case mouth just enough to keep from shaving bullets AND to knock off the trim flashing on the inside of the case. Then after loading I close the bell with a tiny crimp that also will knock off the trim shavings onthe outside of the case mouth. These eliminate the need to chamfer and deburr. The only intermediate step you will have to do with a 650 and some cases (LC, WCC, FC and others) between the prep head and loading head will be to remove the primer swage with a Dillon Super Swage 600, or a drill type swage remover. If using a drill type swage remover, just a little will do, over do it and you will spit primers when fired in auto loading rifles.

Enjoy! And you will find that 223 loading and pistol loading are 2 entirely different animals...

jj

Edited March 26, 2014 by RiggerJJ

[Prebaned]

Good stuff.

I should say that the .223 is for autoloaders punching p aper. The crimp will be for what was mentioned, to just take the bell out from the M die that I will use to knock any burrs off and enough just to not shave the bullet. For the primer pockets I have a Hornady reamer chucked in my lathe and seems to work quite well for the money. So if there is a need for a sizer/decapper the carbide is the way to go?

Also I enjoy the CCI primers and reading it is recommended to run the #41 however the cheaper #450 magnum seems to be the same compound and cup thickness. Is there a reason not to use the #450 primers?

From the inter-webs below, so who knows if it's true.

CCI 450 - same thicker .025" cup as the BR4 and #41.

CCI #41 - commercial version of the fully-qualified DOD primer for use in U.S. military ammo. With this primer there is more 'distance' between the tip of the anvil and the bottom of the cup than with other CCI SR primers. .025" thick cup. Same primer mix as CCI 450.

CCI states: "The CCI 400 primer does have a thinner cup bottom (.020) than CCI 450, #41 or BR4 primers (.025). The appropriate primer for an AR15 platform is the CCI #41 primer, which helps to prevent slamfires. With this primer there is more 'distance' between the tip of the anvil and the bottom of the cup." [as per: Linda Olin - CCI/Speer Technical Services]. Despite this, it seems that most AR15 reloaders have experienced no problems using the BR4 and 450 thicker cupped primers in rifles in good condition.

TIA

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[Scott Steele]

I went with Remington 7 1/2 primers and didn't look back.

[RiggerJJ]

i use anything small rifle for closeup blaster rounds, and CCI srp or Win srp for longish range accuracy. 55gn fmj and 69gn jhp respectively.

jj

[RDA]

Your plan looks very similar to mine:

.223/5.56
Toolhead #1
Station #1 - Lee Universal Depriming Die OR Forster Resizing Die/Depriming
Station #2 - vacant
Station #3 - Dillon trimmer (with final sizing)
Station #4 - vacant
Station #5 - Lyman Neck Expander M-Die (to clean up from trimming and properly size neck)

Toolhead #2
Station #1 - Lee Universal Depriming Die (clean flash hole)
Station #2 - Dillon Powder Funnel
Station #3 - Powder Check
Station #4 - Forster Ultra Micrometer Seating Die
Station #5 - Redding Micrometer Ultra Taper Crimp Die

I am undecided on Toolhead #1, Station #1 as to just using the Lee depriming die and not worry about any sizing (as that can be accomplished in Station #3) and the Lee depriming die handles the crimped primers better.

[orion251]

That would work. The only difference on my setup is on station 1 on prep. htead I use a Dillon full length sizer and decaper. I use it to resize about ~90% but mainly utilize the decamping pin for the expander ball to take any dents out of the neck.

This expander ball makes the neck round again if needed so in station 3 the 1200 can trim correctly.

This is what I do.

[mgrs]

Some good ideas here.

I would add that I like to neck expand/deburr inside the case mouth with a slightly backed off sizing die in station 1 of the loading (second) toolhead.

The reason is that, with some brass, if I wait too long after the brass goes through the processing toolhead and I tumble the lube off, the necks will spring back just tight enough to shave minor slivers of jacket. This allows me to neck expand on the downstroke seconds before seating.