car analyzer advice?

[Jane]

Advice?

Perhaps just the typical female paranoia of auto repair.

Last week, I drove to Vegas for a medical software conference. In Vegas, my car's "Check Engine Soon" light came on.

2003 BMW 530. The manual says that if you didn't have the fuel cap fully tightened, tighten it and that light should go out "within a few days". But the fuel cap did seem fully seated.

Not real comforting when I had the drive home across the desert coming up in a few days.

Was able to find an independent shop open on a Saturday. They plugged in their analyzer, and said the thermostat wasn't closing when it should, and there might be some other issue.
They replaced the thermostat for $600 and the light is now extinguished.

But I'm wondering whether I would have preferred to have one of those handy-dandy ODBII/CAN scan/reset boxes in my car... To see whether just resetting the light would have been all that was needed.

Anybody have suggestions as to models? Actron CP9575 and INNOVA 3030 seem to get good ratings on Amazon.

Advice?

TIA,

Jane

[BritinUSA]

In many cases a reset will solve the problem. If it comes back then you know you have a real issue. I don't have any experience with either of the models that you mention, my advice would be the get the one with the best rating/price ratio, they all work pretty much the same way.

[Powder Finger]

i've got an Innova don't remember the model it works fine. I think it was in the $100 + range.

on the reset deal don't do it close to an emission test.

you have to have X out of X sectors on ready status in the computer.

when you boot it all go to no-ready, then go through a process to get to ready again.

some are pretty fast, but I think the purge system can take days or weeks to meet

all the conditions to set ready.

They do that so you can't just clear codes then test.

Edited November 19, 2013 by Powder Finger

[MarkCO]

First, see if you can get the error code menu for YOUR car. If you get error codes, but don't know what they mean, it does not do much good.

One of the most common error codes is the MAF (mass airflow sensor). It is basically a hot wire anemometer on the clean side of the airfilter. They can usually be cleaned (CRC makes a MAF cleaner) and then the battery disconnected for a few seconds and then re-attached and you might be good to go. Yes, Powder and Britin are right, you will need about 20 to 100 miles for the ECU to get back to normal, but it is not harmful at all.

Last year, I had a female friend go through the same thing. I sent her to Autozone, who will read the codes for free, to get the code, gave her some notes to go into the repair shop with and she did great. $1500 quote and she got out with a $115 (granted from another shop that was not taking advantage of the situation) bill which included an oil change.

[Miranda]

Hi Jane

the folks at BMW are trying to make a difference between
"Stop now" and the spare tire has low pressure.

This is my solution.
If you have a smart phone....

You can find a bluetooth ODBII reader.
I use an app called Torque on my android to read the codes.

You have to go look up the codes somewhere
and I usually google them.
The phone lets me do that anywhere.
I keep the reader in the glovebox.

I have to get a code three times before I believe it.
The gas-cap thing is one I get on the odd occasion.

miranda

[Lifeislarge]

+1 on any Advance Auto Parts or AutoZone giving free code checks and erasing them. Google "2003 BMW 530 Code P____" and you will not only get the meaning of the code, but the diagnostic procedure as well (yes, there are BMW forums too!!!). Certain codes that are airbag (SRS light) and ABS related can only be reset by disconnecting the battery or with BMW scan tool and software.

[Jane]

Thanks, all.