Problem with a 19-2 yoke

[kmca]

Please excuse my lack of terminology.

The yoke stud (the part that slides into the frame and is held with the yoke screw) is loose in the yoke body. This allows the cylinder to bind against the throat when trying to close after reload. It looks like it should be a press fit, but I can move it with moderate finger pressure. Is it "broken"? Is there a fix?

Thanks in advance.

Maybe I should have put this in gunsmithing?

Edited October 26, 2013 by kmca

[RePete]

Sounds like the yoke is bent.

Did you close the cylinder by flipping the the wrist? Ala James Cagney and Bogart.

Yes, this should have been in Gunsmithing.

[toothguy]

Please excuse my lack of terminology.

The yoke stud (the part that slides into the frame and is held with the yoke screw) is loose in the yoke body. This allows the cylinder to bind against the throat when trying to close after reload. It looks like it should be a press fit, but I can move it with moderate finger pressure. Is it "broken"? Is there a fix?

Thanks in advance.

Maybe I should have put this in gunsmithing?

This is a good place to post any revolver related question. I suspect that the tip of the yoke screw is damaged. The screws for newer guns have a spring loaded tip, the older ones like yours are not and may need to be fitted (lightly file the tip if the yoke binds when the new screw is tight). Also check for excess end shake. That's if the cylinder moves fore and aft but the yoke is stable. If you have end shake issues you can use small washers that fit on the end of the yoke, purchased from Brownells.

Edited October 26, 2013 by toothguy

[Toolguy]

I would clean out the crack between the yoke stud and body with brake parts cleaner and compressed air. Then use Loctite 290 wicking grade for assembled parts in the gap. You will want to oil the stem and area that touches the frame after applying the Loctite. Then assemble the gun with cylinder and let the Loctite set up overnight.

[toothguy]

I would clean out the crack between the yoke stud and body with brake parts cleaner and compressed air. Then use Loctite 290 wicking grade for assembled parts in the gap. You will want to oil the stem and area that touches the frame after applying the Loctite. Then assemble the gun with cylinder and let the Loctite set up overnight.

Warren, are you talking about filling the area between the yoke button and frame with Loctite?

[Toolguy]

No. kcma said that the yoke stud is loose in the yoke body. That is at the bottom of the yoke where it goes from horizontal to vertical. That joint should be a press fit and rigid. What I am saying is to put Loctite in the tiny space around the yoke stud where it wobbles in the other part to firm up the joint.

[toothguy]

No. kcma said that the yoke stud is loose in the yoke body. That is at the bottom of the yoke where it goes from horizontal to vertical. That joint should be a press fit and rigid. What I am saying is to put Loctite in the tiny space around the yoke stud where it wobbles in the other part to firm up the joint.

Ok, that makes sense, the ones I'm familiar with are one piece. Thanks

Edited October 26, 2013 by toothguy

[kmca]

Sounds like the yoke is bent.

Did you close the cylinder by flipping the the wrist? Ala James Cagney and Bogart.

Yes, this should have been in Gunsmithing.

No, I would never close any revolver that way, however, I can't say what the previous owner(s) did.

Please excuse my lack of terminology.

The yoke stud (the part that slides into the frame and is held with the yoke screw) is loose in the yoke body. This allows the cylinder to bind against the throat when trying to close after reload. It looks like it should be a press fit, but I can move it with moderate finger pressure. Is it "broken"? Is there a fix?

Thanks in advance.

Maybe I should have put this in gunsmithing?

This is a good place to post any revolver related question. I suspect that the tip of the yoke screw is damaged. The screws for newer guns have a spring loaded tip, the older ones like yours are not and may need to be fitted (lightly file the tip if the yoke binds when the new screw is tight). Also check for excess end shake. That's if the cylinder moves fore and aft but the yoke is stable. If you have end shake issues you can use small washers that fit on the end of the yoke, purchased from Brownells.

The screw looks good to both me and a retired gunsmith that looked at it yesterday. He said he's never seen anything like this happen. Makes me wonder what kind of a gunsmith he was? There is a fair amount of cylinder movement when it is open. When the cylinder is close, there is about .002 movement.

I would clean out the crack between the yoke stud and body with brake parts cleaner and compressed air. Then use Loctite 290 wicking grade for assembled parts in the gap. You will want to oil the stem and area that touches the frame after applying the Loctite. Then assemble the gun with cylinder and let the Loctite set up overnight.

That solution just seems way too easy (except finding the Loctite maybe).

Thanks for the replies

[toothguy]

Toolguy is very good at adjusting and fixing the unadjustable.

[Toolguy]

The Loctite can be ordered from use-enco.com. It is currently on sale for $9.49, part # JR505-2677.

This is the 10 ml size.

Edited October 26, 2013 by Toolguy

[kmca]

Thanks. I just did a quick search and the local auto parts store sell the 10ml for $18 and the .5ml for $7...that stuff costs more than primers at the height of the panic

[pskys2]

Another place to look for the heavier grades of Loc Tite is someplace that sells Bearings, here it's called Industrial Bearing.

[kmca]

I found it at my local Orchard Supply Hardware. It was a little more expensive, but then, I did save on gas .

I did the brake cleaner and compressed air cleaning, used a little Loctite primer and put on the Loctite 290. Just waiting for the cure.

Many thanks again guys.

p.s. I hope it works