bobby hated Posted October 3, 2013 Share Posted October 3, 2013 Since the PRK gun Nazis are about to make every semi auto rifle with a magazine an "Assault Weapon", I decided to buy a M1A to use in HM division in the future. It has the black synthetic stock. I've read every thread I could find on here and every other site, ar15.com, m4carbine.com, m14forum.com, etc. What I do not see is a coherent thread on what modifications should be made to these rifles. The only really solid mod I gathered is to make sure the stock and handguard aren't rubbing up against the barrel, and if they are to take a dremel tool to them to remove offending surfaces. What else should or can I do to it as far as replacing parts, adding parts, aftermarket parts, improving accuracy, etc. Links to vendors for parts would be much appreciated. I'm rather finicky about my AR's but I don't know the first thing about M1A's so I need training wheels. Thank you much! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryan 45 Posted October 3, 2013 Share Posted October 3, 2013 In my opinion, the best thing you can do with an M1A is just shoot it to learn the rifle. Before you add any parts, replace any parts, or worry about accurizing it, take it out and get some rounds down range. Find out if it's reliable (almost all M1As are), find out if it's accuracy is acceptable (again, most are). The only mods I think are needed is a thinner front sight post and a muzzle brake. But, these aren't required to shoot well in Heavy Metal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zebraman Posted October 3, 2013 Share Posted October 3, 2013 I agree with Bryan 45, however you will probably want to change the muzzle brake to something like and SJC or Rolling Thunder, etc. There is a company that has all the stuff required to do the change @ www.NoKick.com. You will also probably want to change the mag release. I would recomend the Sadlak extended release, that you can find at Brownells or Midway U.S.A. If you are going to run an optic, you will need a scope mount. There are lots of those on the market. An interesting design comes from Canada. It replaces the rear sight and uses it to secure the mount. You can find it by typing in M1a scope mount from Canada (sorry, I don't know the web address). Lastly a few 20 and 25 round mags from a place like www.44mag.com and you will be set except for the cost of the practice and match ammo... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
co-exprs Posted October 3, 2013 Share Posted October 3, 2013 Another small detail and inexpensive to change (also totally a preference thing), I found the flat face of the rear aperture to reflect a lot of light (even though it's checkered). This, at least for me, made the circle of the rear aperture vague and harder to use. I replaced mine with a NM hooded model drilled to .070" to give me a large enough rear sight hole to go fast, but still be precise at distance and the hood improved the contrast of the black ring enough to make it much easier to use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wgj3 Posted October 3, 2013 Share Posted October 3, 2013 (edited) I added a hooded front sight that has interchangeable inserts for the "post". Some heavier, some finer. I settled on the med fine insert and found that the hood would act as fantastic reference for shorter range stuff. Circle (of front hood) inside circle (of rear aperture) on target, bang, hit. Then have the finer post for longer stuff. Edited October 3, 2013 by wgj3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wgj3 Posted October 3, 2013 Share Posted October 3, 2013 And the 7.62 Titan rocks!! Unless you are standing to the side of it when in use... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Therealkoop Posted October 4, 2013 Share Posted October 4, 2013 Some easy accuracy stuff: Make sure the handguard doesnt touch THE STOCK. Shim the gas cylinder Shim or bed the stock so that the front ferrel of the stock has a decnt amount of pressure against the tab on the gas system plate (sorry cant remember the terminology). Replace the gas piston with an aftermarket unit. clearance the gas system/op rod from the inside of the stock. As for an optics mount, I really like my bassett machine mount. asy to install and remove, only uses one bolt. Never had an issue with it, but ive never shot a match with my M1a that wasnt high power rifle either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Sierpina Posted October 4, 2013 Share Posted October 4, 2013 I like the hooded rear sight. I opened mine to .062. It may need fitting to the base. A proper muzzle brake is the way to go. The mount that Zebraman refers to is from www.m14.ca I have one, it's very solid, no problems with ejection. I never cared for the one screw mounts. However, the M1A has the best iron sights, so why not use them? No need to replace the gas piston, the stock one is just fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
co-exprs Posted October 4, 2013 Share Posted October 4, 2013 Yep, about sums it up. NM front blade, NM hooded rear aperture and a good brake. I actually like the plain jane black polymer stock with the rubber butt pad. If the rifle prints 2moa then go shoot it and have fun. If it shoots bigger groups then start looking at bedding and custom fit parts. Proly won't need em though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R112mercer Posted October 4, 2013 Share Posted October 4, 2013 +1 for the hooded front sight. When I replaced my front sight base to mount a comp (SJC Titan) I put a shaver front sight on. Allows you to use a wide variety of different front sights, some of which are very fine for long range aiming, the hood shades the sight to make it clearer in adverse lighting, and you can use the globe for up-close shooting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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