Reloading time ?

[Ray Chonlatid]

1) What about your reloading time ? 3.2sec, 3.0. sec, 2.5 sec, 2.3 sec, 2.0 ....or less !?!

I am beginer Revolver Std Division shooter. With M625, my live fired practice at 15yard distance approximate 2.95-3.05 sec.

Still need more and more practice for me.

2) Chamfered the cylinder holes are need ? What yours opinion ?

(Above photo from http://www.beckhamdesign.com/index.html )

[rwmagnus]

Pretty solid for a beginner. My dry fire times are always faster but live fire 15 yards 2.5 seconds on average. It's competitive but needs to be faster. The more I practice the smoother and more consistent I get. Top shooters will be under 2.0 seconds, you do the math.

Yes chamfer the cylinder holes everything within the rules that speed things up just do it. This one is a no brainer. The 625 platform is about as fast as it's going to get.

[spook]

Under three at 15 yds is very good if you're a beginner! Try to get it under 2.5 consistently and also do a lot of reloads on the move. That's one of the mistakes I made. I just practiced static reloads and they're pretty fast, but on the move they're usually 0.5 s longer

Oh, and chamfering is good. Just break the edges around the chargeholes with a small round file. You can do it yourself if you want a small chamfering (which is good enough). If you want the big chamfering (like the photo), I suggest you let a gunsmith do it.

[Ray Chonlatid]

My reloading time average 2.95-3.10sec is standing not on moving, such as El Presidente.

My reloading time while move much slower and depend where the next target is.

I found that if I reload whilst run. The new rounds always drop on floor instead of go in the cylinder. Thus quick walk better than fast run.....for me.

I am trying to have more consistent.

Thank you for chamfering opinion. I shall do it soon.

[Ray Chonlatid]

I look for a spare revolver. This is the next one of my interest. Especially their features ;

Deep Cut Broached Rifling

Hand Honed Bore

Reduced Cylinder Freebore

Chamfered Charge Holes

Unfortuately that Camfour company did not reply an inquiried of my importer company yet.

[spook]

I found that if I reload whilst run. The new rounds always drop on floor instead of go in the cylinder.

Same here. You should learn to reload on the run as soon as possible. I do the fast walk as well and it slows me down a lot.

What kind of revolver are you shooting now?

[Ray Chonlatid]

What kind of revolver are you shooting now?

I'm use M625-4. Everything original, even sight and all springs.

My house has not enough area to dry fire practice on the run moving.

I am practice by walk 2 or 3 step instead.

Placing some blanket or quilt on the floor. My steel moonclips still bend after few hours of dryfire droping

[Bubber]

Ray,

It may just be me but I find that what distance you're shooting at affects your reload times. Concentrate on reloading smooth rather than fast. If it is smooth it will be fast. And when moving, move quickley to your next shooting position and be reloaded by the time you get there, that is al you can ask for. My reload times Static are in the 2.2 to 2.5 times with my eight shot, and I tried for speed once with my 625 and got a 2.18. But then again I would go for smooth and consistant. rdd

[spook]

I agree with Bubber. Smooth is almost always faster.

Lately I've been focussing on smooth only and dropped the whole concept of being fast and my reloads are about .25 faster consistently. The whole reloading process is very visual. You can't see a lot when you're tense.

Practice smoothness and increase speed, but stay consistent. Once you start to miss reloads, it's time to take a step back.

[v-comp]

Bubber's spot on!

On a good day with my 8 shot ,they'll be 1.7+ to 1.9+ static (I felt the "force only once with a 1.50 flat --wahoo! I've tried to do that again and usually end up in the 3 or 4's )

But as for reloading on the move, I'll give you an example

As soon as I've finished the array, I open the cylinder and dump the emptys as I'm moving out of the box/position.

I then concentrate on getting to the next box/position as fast as I safely can with the gun in my left hand and the cylinder still open (I use two hand reloads).

Now as I'm hitting the brakes I'm grabbing the fresh clip with my right hand and I load the cylinder just before I get to the box.

As I step into the box/ position I close the cylinder and present the gun to the target.

This may sound an odd/late way to reload, but I find if I'm all done and finished before I get to the box, I'm in unfamilliar territory!

IE: I'm not drawing from a holster, nor am I presenting after a reload.

So what happens then------I can't find the #@$%^& DOT! not mentioning the extra time it took up on the run.

So sometimes the reloads will take 2 seconds, sometime 10. I just think it's only relevant to the best use of the time that's gonna' be there to use no matter what you do---without adding any extra!

I hope this helps

CR

[hopalong]

Ray,

You ever decide you don't want that 625-4 I want it

I have the Same set up as you (625-4) EXCEPT

1 Vic Pickett trigger Kit, and about 3 hours of smoothing inside and moving surfaces. (6 pound double action SMOOTH trigger) that is all I want.

2 Jerry Miculek grips.

3 Millett, Black medium Height Target back sight.

4 Chamfered cylinder (pretty deep but NOT radical)

Now to reloads:

As all were saying SMOOTH is fast, just practice smooth and the next thing you know you will have a Fast reload.... BUT a fast reload is SQUAT if you can not be consistant with it. As many times a reload is required in Revolver shooting the chances for a fumbled reload are higher than an autoloader AND costlier.

I have worked and worked on my reload and on a standard reload drill of a paper target at 7 yds (about 5 meters) I can get near 1.75 but remember the consistant thing I spoke about earlier, at that speed I also have some BAD ones too.

I am trying to get my average of 10 reloads down to 2 seconds flat, it is around 2.25 now and I hope to have it down to 2 by March.

Moving reloads:

Since you are shooting Standard revolver you do not have to find a DOT so your sight picture should be the same no matter what (as far as the sights are conscerened).

When you fire the last shot and start to reload you need to be moving, get the gun empty as fast a possible, reload smoothly as fast as you can, close the gun, get a correct grip, find the next target, aquire a new sight picture and squeeze the trigger.

Now on the moving part:

If your static reload is say.... 3 seconds flat and you have to cover ground that takes 5 you should be finished and have the gun up and ready by the time you get there..

If you have less ground to cover than it takes time to do the reload, be in the spot and have a good stance by the time you finish the reload then all you are doing is getting a sight picture like starting from a draw (something you are comfortable at)

NOTE HERE: You will with time get to where it feels like you are wasting your time (or losing time) when you have a short spot of ground to cover and it takes longer to reload, this is normal and with time the reloads are going to be quicker too. DO NOT get tense as this will only make things worse (AND is easy to do).

If you do as the above says and have a good stance you are giving yourself the best chance of making good shots, not hurried or out of controlled shots.

HOPE this helps, Good luck with your wheel gun...

Hopalong / Sam Keen

[Ray Chonlatid]

Thank you everyone.

Now, I'm thinking a Chinese Kung-Fu word. Strong is weak, but soft is strong.

May be similar as practical shooting. Hurry is slow, while smooth is fast.

[rwmagnus]

Thank you everyone.

Now, I'm thinking a Chinese Kung-Fu word.  Strong is weak, but soft is strong. 

May be similar as practical shooting.  Hurry is slow, while smooth is fast.

Okay this thread is getting deep......grasshopper

Reloads.... simple anything over 1.5 seconds is burning daylight!

BTW that's one sweet looking PC revo pictured above!

[redmist10]

Are you considering chamfering the cylinder holes of the one pictured at the beginning of this thread?

That one seems like it is about as far as you want to safely chamfer it. If you didn't do it....some one else already has. I'd leave that one alone.

[spook]

About chamfering: I found ou that, the larger the chamfered area, the greater chances are that the rounds in your moonclip will "skip a hole" (meaning round 1 goes in hole 1 and round 2 goes in hole 3). This is a very sucky thing to have. Just break the edges enough to let the casemouth go in perfectly.

[Round_Gun_Shooter]

Are you considering chamfering the cylinder holes of the one pictured at the beginning of this thread?

That one seems like it is about as far as you want to safely chamfer it.  If you didn't do it....some one else already has.  I'd leave that one alone.

If you get a chance to look at Jerry M's 625, you will see his chamfer is a lot more than the one pictured. Each hole in his cylinder looks like a funnel.

I wish I had the tools to get a greater chamfer than I have. As slow as I am, every little bit would help me. Since the rounds headspace off the moonclip, I keep trying a little more and a little more.

Regards,

[JohnRodriguez]

A couple of weeks ago, I finally got my 5" barrel and cylinder for a 45 acp, got everything put on my old 627 frame, no sense in lossing a good action job. Went out today and set up 3 NRA D1's, about 1.5 feet apart, 7 yards away. My draw were 1.18 surrender, 1.03 hands at side, splits were .22-.23, couldn't get them any lower than that, reloads were 2.05 darn near everytime, my old 6 shot 627 were always 2.3's never could get them lower that that on that gun. all this was beging able to keep the shots in the A-zone, the only time I would throw a B or C was on the first shot after the draw, times were consistantly 5.5 sec

Hey Sam, how do you like you black magic trigger, I have over 30k tru my 8 shot 627 super, same spring. best money you'll ever spend for two pieces of steel.

[Precision40]

Jerry chamfered my revolver cylinders as well. They looked alot like the picture, but they were not quite as sharp. It was a very smooth transition. They were big though.

As far as reload times. In practice, I could consistently do 2 second reloads shot to shot. But in a match it was closer to 3.

[hopalong]

John,

I had a Wolff reduced power in it before the Black Majic, The wolff gets its power from the full length of the ribbed spring and thus made the DA stroke really consistant, the weight was consistantly gradual if you know what I mean.

Vicks Spring is built slightly different but most like the Factory spring but it gets most of its "spring" from the top half, the pull is consistant like the wolff but I guess because of the cryo treatment and the way the spring is designed you get a really "snappy" hammer fall, thus allowing to go lower on the mainspring poundage giving a softer, smoother DA trigger stroke.

For me I like the Majic kit now that I can feal the difference between them.

The wolff Kit is a good kit and I would recommend it to the next guy who just wants to improve his over factory, but if you are going to be serious with the wheel gun.... Vic Pickett is the way to go.

SAM

[rwmagnus]

... but if you are going to be serious with the wheel gun.... Vic Pickett is the way to go. 

Sam is the Pickett spring different from the one Miculek sells thru Clarks Custom Guns? Does it come with the rebound spring as well? Do you have contact info or a website for Vic Pickett? One can never have enough springs, LOL!

[JohnRodriguez]

The springs that vic has come with the mainspring and one short rebound and one long rebound, just incase you like running a heavier trigger. Here is his phone #

1-480-834-3107

[rwmagnus]

The springs that vic has come with the mainspring and one short rebound and one long rebound, just incase you like running a heavier trigger.  Here is his phone #

1-480-834-3107

Does Vic have a website? 480 is that Phoenix, AZ?

[hopalong]

RW,

Yes Vic does have a website, I will find it for you and get it when I get back from work this afternoon, That is if John R. doesn't have it posted already, and I don't know if it is Phoenix but it is somewhere in AZ.

SAM

[JohnRodriguez]

Vic doesn't have a web site, but here is is e-mail address

vpickett@neta.com

That phone # is in Mesa, AZ. I had just talked to him last night about the match this sunday 1/2/05, If any of you are interested and in the Pheonix area the match starts at around 9:00am, and we will be setting up the stages on saturday over at Rio Salado range.

[hopalong]

John,

I stand corrected, I had his E-mail address..... and you have already taken care of that for me, Thanks

SAM