RogerT Posted November 5, 2004 Share Posted November 5, 2004 Hi all. I'm looking to buy a used 625 and it has chromed trigger parts, the trigger, hammer and the cylinder lock also! The hammer has a amaller spur than original and it feels heavier in the hand when disassembled. Quéstion is, what is this? Good parts or cheap junk? The trigger feels really smooth in DA and the SA is, as usual, very good, but I have not fired it yet. And secondly, there is a small burr on the outside, on the lefthand side of the barrel forcing cone and a small burr on the inside edge of the forcing cone. Is this sign of excessive use of hard loads or, as the seller says, a gun that have not been shot more than 800-1000 rounds. There is nothing else that indicates that he is kidding me, the gun feels tight and the cylinder locks up fine. Opinions anyone? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patrick Sweeney Posted November 5, 2004 Share Posted November 5, 2004 Smith made guns for a number of years with chrome-plated carbon steel parts. The hammer and trigger in particular, so they could get the hardness of carbon, but match the look of stainless. Unless they are replacements, nothing to worry about. You say the burr is on the left side? Perhaps from the cylinder banging when opening and closing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whizz Posted November 5, 2004 Share Posted November 5, 2004 Glad to hear that you are going towards revo... even though I probably will get my "*ss whipped" next year I have been thinking of getting my trigger setup a Ti-Nitride coating as it is said to make the trigger pull as smooth as it possibly can be. Maybe the chromium (if it is hard chrome) has a similar effect?! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rwmagnus Posted November 6, 2004 Share Posted November 6, 2004 RogerT Those parts can always be replaced. I for one wouldn't care for that look. Guess it depends on the price. 1000 rounds is nothing they usually need 3-4 times that just to break in. 625 is a great platform sounds like you've looked it over pretty good if it's a good price go for it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RogerT Posted November 6, 2004 Author Share Posted November 6, 2004 I took a pic of the burr on the lefthand side of the barrel. Could this gun really left the S&W final inspection like this? The dark spots on the barrel end are just dirt, I'm not finished with the cleaning yet.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spook Posted November 6, 2004 Share Posted November 6, 2004 That's one big burr! I don't think it's very harmful. My new revolver developed a similar burr (although smaller). If it bothers you I'd file it off once the gun is worn in. Check the B/C gap just to be sure. It should be in the .004-.010" region. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wildman Posted November 7, 2004 Share Posted November 7, 2004 My 625 came the same way, new in the box. You need to knock the ridge off, just to save your fingers. I reload with the weak hand fingers through the frame, steadying the cylinder. The ridge will cut you pretty quick. Knock it off with a small file. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rwmagnus Posted November 7, 2004 Share Posted November 7, 2004 Mine wasn't that bad, it sure looks ugly but as everyone said just file it smooth. I agree with Wildman cause it will cut you deep if you reload with weak hand fingers going through the frame. Don't wait for break in it should be done as part of the gun prep. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RogerT Posted November 7, 2004 Author Share Posted November 7, 2004 OK, thanks everyone. I'll be busy with the file and do a little work one the outside of the barrel and take care of the cylinder chamfering as well. As it is now, only the cylinder has a bevel and the star is untouched. I've been out shooting with it and with factory loads (S&B 230 gn FMJ) it shoots well but it's got a punch!! The gun is a 625-4 with 5 in barrel and I will be developing some factor 180 loads for it, preferrably lead bullets. I'll be searching the reload forum now .. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Round_Gun_Shooter Posted November 7, 2004 Share Posted November 7, 2004 If I had a revolver with a forcing cone like that I would send it back and ask them to re-cut it. I had some accuracy problems with my 625 that I could not blame on me. S&W re-cut the forcing cone, faced it off and solved the problem. That is one of the few good things about living only 2 hours from the factory Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spook Posted November 7, 2004 Share Posted November 7, 2004 The punch can be overcome by getting an effective grip for your gun. Have you seen the grip I made for my gun at the Rooster Mountain match? It's a butt ugly POS, but it gives me a great contacting area between the gun and the grip. It's very soft to shoot that way. Shooting 230 grain RN and Vihtavuori N320 helps too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RogerT Posted November 7, 2004 Author Share Posted November 7, 2004 If I had a revolver with a forcing cone like that I would send it back and ask them to re-cut it. I would love to live that close to any arms manufacturer again, I used to live in Eskilstuna, the town where they made all the Carl Gustav small arms (up to and including the recoilless anti-tank gun). There are so much experience and know-how to learn from when you get to know the right people. But, back to the gun in question again. Forcing cone, thats a misleading term in this case! There isn't any!! There is a short (1/8 inch) ungrooved part of the barrel in the beginning, but compared to my 686 .357 that's not a cone . Seriously, what is the right angle of the cone on a 625? I'm thinking of fixing it myself (not really, I have a friend with a machine shop) but I dont know what the correct angle is. I'm not intending to recut the cone, but to clean up the surface and make it smooth to keep lead deposit to a minimum. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rwmagnus Posted November 7, 2004 Share Posted November 7, 2004 RogerT I agree it shouldn't have left the factory this way but it really isn't worth the postage to send it back for just this. Some say they don't have the skills to work on their weapons but if you can shine your own shoes you can fix this problem. You are not recutting the forcing cone just cleaning up the edge. Even if it were perfect you'd still have to "break" the 90 degree edge cause they are all sharp. Use a ceramic stone or fine file to works doen the burr then stone a slight angle on the outside edge so you don't cut your fingers on the reloading. Same goes for smoothing up the innards use a stone to take out the tool marks on parts that contact each other. It's just a light stoning or smoothing up of the parts. Basically it's a quick way to get the same feel that 6-8K rounds would give you. If you're new to working on revolvers do a search here or at the S&W forum for help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RogerT Posted November 7, 2004 Author Share Posted November 7, 2004 The punch can be overcome by getting an effective grip for your gun. Have you seen the grip I made for my gun at the Rooster Mountain match? It's a butt ugly POS, but it gives me a great contacting area between the gun and the grip. It's very soft to shoot that way. Shooting 230 grain RN and Vihtavuori N320 helps too. Hi all. I got this in the mail from Spook together with his recipe. " What I did was buy a 2 piece grip and add a lot of two component epoxy stuff to it. Then I dremeled it where needed and added epoxy where needed. I wanted a grip with as much contact area as possible. Then, I added skateboard tape to it and voila, an ugly but effective grip. I won't shoot anything else now. It makes my .45 feel like a .38 special." I'm going to do something like that, but I'll do the work on the original grip instead with some liquid rubber instead of epoxy, the grip is useless for me anyway and of a onepiece design. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rwmagnus Posted November 7, 2004 Share Posted November 7, 2004 Well Spook is one heck of a shooter so I'll not argue with success but that's one U G L Y grip, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spook Posted November 7, 2004 Share Posted November 7, 2004 ah yes...the times I've been lauged at because of that grip... I ain't pretty, but I guess that's the part of me that doesn't care about looks. Still, I cannot believe how fast Jerry M. is with that small slick grip Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rwmagnus Posted November 7, 2004 Share Posted November 7, 2004 ah yes...the times I've been lauged at because of that grip... I ain't pretty, but I guess that's the part of me that doesn't care about looks. Still, I cannot believe how fast Jerry M. is with that small slick grip Well partner ya gotta go with the flow and if bigger and stickier works just do it. They never ask how, just how many! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spook Posted November 7, 2004 Share Posted November 7, 2004 They never ask how, just how many! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hopalong Posted November 7, 2004 Share Posted November 7, 2004 Bjorn, Jerry said the small slick grip is the KEY to his fast reloads, he said he can manipulate the gun in and out of his hands best with the small grip and even goes as far as sometimes adding a little "cornstarch" powder to his hands to help make it slicker. I myself on the other hand have short fingers and the smaller grip makes it (N-Frame) more like an L except the weight. and I think grip adjustments are slightly easier with the small slick grip too. RogerT good luck, Welcome to the forums and the world of revolvers, when I changed over from the autos I never thought I would enjoy them so much. Hopalong Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RogerT Posted November 7, 2004 Author Share Posted November 7, 2004 Thank You, Hopalong. Since I'm reloading with my left hand holding the gun in my right hand all the time so a big grip with good "traction" will do fine, I hope. I'll keep you updated of my progress (if any ). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spook Posted November 7, 2004 Share Posted November 7, 2004 Hop, yeah that's what I thought. If the slick grip is just for fast reloads, it's of no use to me fortunately (since I reload the wrong way ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikey357 Posted November 9, 2004 Share Posted November 9, 2004 ...well, I'll NOT comment on the grips, BUT...getting "Back on Track" a lil', the chromed-to-look-like-stainless hammers and triggers work just fine...back in the heyday of PPC, some of the "Master Gunplumbers" who built these VERY accurate revolvers actually PREFERED to built on a stainless frame so equipped...the RUMOR was that you could get a slightly SMOOTHER DA pull, and that it would last longer, too...FWIW....mikey357 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cking Posted May 16, 2006 Share Posted May 16, 2006 That burr shows up on every s&W I've seen. It is not a problem, the problem is on the other side of the barrel on inside in the 2 to 5 o'clock area there is an equal burr. I'm ordering a deburring chamfer tool from Brownells to clean mine up. IT looks like a ball cutter on crooked handling to fit inside frame. $30.00 another tools in basket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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