1050 Swager Adjustment Question?

[dan46n2]

I'm trying to get the least swage removal possible with my 1050 swager. What I've tried as a new method is taking the brass after its been swaged and trying to seat a primer by laying a primer on the table and pushing the brass into it. It takes pretty good effort and I have to use two hands on the brass. Is this a better method or should I rely on the feel I get from priming with the press? From the look of the brass with trying this method the crimp looks almost like it wasnt swaged at all.

[HI5-O]

You can try and put a brass (one with a primer pocket you like) without a crimp in the swage station, adjust the swaging rod into the primer pocket then adjust the expander.

Then try it and see if you like it. If you can get a hand held primer tool you can feel how much pressure it needs to seat the primer. Using the 1050 and priming by feel is very difficult.

Edited June 18, 2013 by HI5-O

[ltdmstr]

What is it you're trying to accomplish? If you want as little swage as possible, just back out the rod, or remove it all together. You can't really feel the primer seating on the 1050 as too much is going on at the same time. Why don't you prime one by hand then set the machine to match? Takes about two seconds to adjust on a 1050.

[dan46n2]

What is it you're trying to accomplish? If you want as little swage as possible, just back out the rod, or remove it all together. You can't really feel the primer seating on the 1050 as too much is going on at the same time. Why don't you prime one by hand then set the machine to match? Takes about two seconds to adjust on a 1050.

I'm trying to adjust the 1050 swager to swage as little as possible and still be able to prime the brass. So I'm wondering if the best method to use is how Im trying it by hand so I can feel what's going on rather than try to feel it through the press. I have a 650 also which you can feel better than the 1050 but the way I see it is if I can just bearly get the primer seated by pressing the brass into it with my hand that's as sensitive as it gets? Or is there some faulty thinking with that?

[ltdmstr]

Setting the swage bar to minimal effective depth is trial and error. Set it so it barely does anything, then see if you can seat a primer by hand. If not, increase depth until you can. As for actually seating the primer, I would think your goal is to get the primer seated to the bottom of the case recess with minimal (or no) crush from the seater. To do that, seat a couple by hand and measure the depth,, then adjust the machine to duplicate it.

[slavex]

using a Dremel tool or a hacksaw or similar, cut a case in half and place it in the swaging station, turn it so you can see the swager going in, adjust it to your preferred depth.

[Boxerglocker]

Setting the swage bar to minimal effective depth is trial and error. Set it so it barely does anything, then see if you can seat a primer by hand. If not, increase depth until you can. As for actually seating the primer, I would think your goal is to get the primer seated to the bottom of the case recess with minimal (or no) crush from the seater. To do that, seat a couple by hand and measure the depth,, then adjust the machine to duplicate it.

I agree it's definitely trial and error especially with mixed brass. After setting off a primer one time at the primer station on my 1050. I was doing what the OP was trying and get the crimp minimal, no more, I now have set mine a little on the more aggressive side. I haven't had any issues with loose pockets after several firing so think it's just right.

[Retread1911]

I process lots of 223 brass and can tell you that minimum specs will cause problems with priming in machines like the 650 or other machines that do not have as tight an alignment as the 1050 especially with mixed brass.

I would recommend a little more aggressive approach to swaging

Just my 2 cents.

[Boxerglocker]

I process lots of 223 brass and can tell you that minimum specs will cause problems with priming in machines like the 650 or other machines that do not have as tight an alignment as the 1050 especially with mixed brass. I would recommend a little more aggressive approach to swaging Just my 2 cents.

I totally agree.

[dan46n2]

I process lots of 223 brass and can tell you that minimum specs will cause problems with priming in machines like the 650 or other machines that do not have as tight an alignment as the 1050 especially with mixed brass. I would recommend a little more aggressive approach to swaging Just my 2 cents.

I want it as tight as possible to get the most number of reloads and prevent loose primer pockets. If I can push the primer in by hand I dont think any press would have difficulty though. I've never had problems priming brass, its been the opposite it seems easy to prime even with the least amount of swage that Im doing.

[Boxerglocker]

I process lots of 223 brass and can tell you that minimum specs will cause problems with priming in machines like the 650 or other machines that do not have as tight an alignment as the 1050 especially with mixed brass. I would recommend a little more aggressive approach to swaging Just my 2 cents.

I want it as tight as possible to get the most number of reloads and prevent loose primer pockets. If I can push the primer in by hand I dont think any press would have difficulty though. I've never had problems priming brass, its been the opposite it seems easy to prime even with the least amount of swage that Im doing.

Your just chasing your tail, best you can do is segregate all your brass and reset for each type. I get 4-5 loads per a case with medium range loads and zero primer pocket issues.