dan46n2

Got it fixed, it was a loose pin on the 6 pin power connector. Have to say their customer service is great I got a response in like 20 minutes and fixed the issue!

I just set up my 1050 Autodrive for the first time and got the same issue. This was ordered new a few years ago, haven't gotten around to it till now. I updated the firmware and software but it won't get past the warning screen and the accept and deny buttons dont come up. Also tried to power cycle the MCU, unplugged cables and replugged.

Interesting concept... but with Dillon lube, or the home brew stuff I've been making, you can spray a bunch of brass at once. Don't really see the need for this thing. Neat idea though.

I've been pleased with the Federal brass, its very good quality. I emailed Dillon about the 270 unit being too short and to send me a 308 backup rod to have turned down and they added it to my order. So maybe they didn't know about it, would you happen to have a part #?

I got in the 270 backup swage rod, it wont work, its too short to reach the bottom of the case for support. Probably the only wayu to do it is to order a 308 rod and have it turned down. Or if Dillon would make one for 6.8

With my 650 I tighten it more than usual, thats how it prevents powder splash. Its able to be tightened more because it rolls on the bearing so the instructions sound right to me.

I would imagine both sides, even if one side didn't need it I can't see how it would hurt. On my 650 I pack both sides. What size is the oring that came with yours?

Store your dies/toolheads in an ammo box, I use the 50 cal ammo boxes, works great.

I want it as tight as possible to get the most number of reloads and prevent loose primer pockets. If I can push the primer in by hand I dont think any press would have difficulty though. I've never had problems priming brass, its been the opposite it seems easy to prime even with the least amount of swage that Im doing.

I'm not sure about the thickness of the Hornady lock ring but from memory I want to say its thicker than Redding lock rings (the ones with the lead insert behind the set screw). I tried putting the redding on the bottom of the trimmer die, on the underside of the toolhead and I damaged the shellplate locking, it crushed it because it sticks out a little too far. First I tried it in the stock location on the top side of the toolhead but the hole in the trimmer die was oriented so the set screw went into the hole so it wouldn't work. So be careful if you try to put any kind of die lock ring on the bottom side of a 1050 toolhead. Dillon was great and sent me a new shellplate locking at no charge.

Success!!! Finally I got it to work. So I tried to tighten the lockring more and more, and it was obvious it was too tight but it did help the problem a little. Well I found that set screw at the back left side of the press, its hidden by one of the locator tab pins and adjusted it to have the screw go deeper to the middle of the press and the problem went away. I loosened up the lock ring to the factory setting of 1/8 turn before full tightness and it works perfect. I can go as fast as I want and it won't over index. Thanks for the help guys!

I tried that with the ball bearing and it seems to be at full extension on the spring. Interestingly I did a google search and someone has the exact same problem on ARFCOM at the link below. I also called Dillon and they suggested the same things, check the ball, tighten the lockring both of which Ive already tried. They also said to check the index pawl set screw which I am going to do tonight when I get home, but it indexes fine if the upstroke is done gently. Dillon said if those don't work to call again and send them the video. I see guys whaling on their 1050s on youtube, there has to be a fix. http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_6_42/395181_New_Dillon_1050_over_indexing_on_fast_hard_up_strokes___Other_thoughts_questions_.html

I'm not out running the Casefeeder which I can do with my 650. In the video Im overdoing it a bit to show what it does. I have to be very aware of how quick I move the handle up or it will misalign, it doesn't seem like the press was intended to be made like this. Even if I raise the handle up very slowly, if I snap it back just a little too much in the last few inches of travel it will over index. There has to he a solution for this, it shouldn't be that sensitive?

Mine indexed too far when the spring was weak and the ball stuck down. I think the spring is weak but I'm not sure, heres a video I made of what its doing (hard to hold an Ipad and work the press at the same time when the ratchet mechanism wants to jam):

I looked at those parts and they seem to be ok, not sure what spring you are talking about but it doesnt look like anything is broken.

I tried tightening the lockring to the shell plate down until it gets too hard to turn then backed it off a little. That helps but it still indexes too far if I pull the handle fast enough. Maybe I got a weak spring that goes to the ball the shellplate indexes off of? Or is there another indexing adjustment I can make?

If I remember right the trimmer is a different tread pattern than a standard die. Op's original idea should work as long as he makes sure its really tight so it doesn't come loose. Thats right the upper threads are finer than the lower on the trimmer die so the hornady rings wont work.

Tighten what, the shellplate? I tried that, still does it. Also is it supposed to index freely without pulling the handle if you try to advance the shellplate by hand?

I'm not sure if this is normal but I can advance myS1050 shell plate without moving the handle, just by turning it with my hand. The problem is if I pull the handle too hard it will index a little too advanced and not line up. Any suggestions?

I'm having an issue with the my Dillon trimmer, the collar tilts up and down on my 1050 as the toolhead is raised and lowered. Any fix for this? Also I'm planning on threading the jam nut for a set screw on the trimmer die so I can move it for different calibers, any problems people have run into doing this?

I'm trying to adjust the 1050 swager to swage as little as possible and still be able to prime the brass. So I'm wondering if the best method to use is how Im trying it by hand so I can feel what's going on rather than try to feel it through the press. I have a 650 also which you can feel better than the 1050 but the way I see it is if I can just bearly get the primer seated by pressing the brass into it with my hand that's as sensitive as it gets? Or is there some faulty thinking with that?

I'm trying to get the least swage removal possible with my 1050 swager. What I've tried as a new method is taking the brass after its been swaged and trying to seat a primer by laying a primer on the table and pushing the brass into it. It takes pretty good effort and I have to use two hands on the brass. Is this a better method or should I rely on the feel I get from priming with the press? From the look of the brass with trying this method the crimp looks almost like it wasnt swaged at all.

It took about 2 minutes to order the bearing from amazon and another 2 to order the o-ring. How much more convenient can it get? It would probably take me as long to order the kit from ebay. I got my bearing within a few days with free shipping, everything cost about $5-6. I have two 1050s so why would I pay $60 to get the same thing for $10-12? The part numbers are already in the thread theres no searching or research left to do for the bearing, the o-rings listed should work, if not it won't take much longer. You realize you are paying about 500% more for the ebay kit?

About isn't a measurement and isn't good enough. Use a set of calipers to measure the shaft. I was using calipers, but the exact measurement wasn't what I was getting at it was significantly different than what I thought Lee got but he was talking about a different part. So does the o-ring go around the main shaft or the receiver lock ring?

Hmmmm... maybe I'm not understanding Lee G's post, I thought the shaft was 1.86.. I'm getting about 1.5 inches.