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Stock 2 Hammer Spring


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In my I had to put in 15# to reliably ignite factory ammo. Now i have 13# spring, but firing pin was ligtened up and welded up just a bit. No issues with win or fed primers, factory was ok too when i tested it.

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Henning sells a long firing pin designed for the Stock II. It says for small frame, but in bold it specifically states for the Stock II. Frenchie has one listed on his store as well. That will allow you to go lighter on you main spring.

No idea on trigger pull weight. Mo will likely chime in shortly or call Henning.

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Here is what I have and it has worked just fine on the pas 4-5 years.

-14 lb hammer spring from wolff springs

-8lb recoil spring { minor load 131pf}

-90 degree bend on the original sear spring to lightened that up you will see what I mean by that when you disassemble yours.

if your gun has the new improved 2 peace sear bend as necessary the spring on the sear lever the part that engages the firing pin

block on the slide just enough to lightened up a bit more the trigger pull.

-No modification on the trigger return spring.

- firing pin spring from wolff cut to 38 coils total { this is not the original but the one that came from wolf in the same package

with the recoil spring cut to 38 coils }

-Eric new double action extended firing pin { this will work with the original firing pin block safety

{ this one become available last couple of months}

-Henning front sight { depending on the preference } I find his sight to be the best considering the length of the fiber optic is twice as long as the factory

- some folks think having extra strong magazine springs is the best way to ensure the gun runs perfect .I have found out that as I reduce the recoil spring taking one coil off the magazine spring helps with the timing on the gun and ensures that the round will be striped easily and with no resistance from the mag.

I make sure in my small frame Stock 2 that the magazine lips are spread apart just enough to accept a 9mm projectile pas through with no feeling of resistance between them .This mean the lips are spread apart about 0.356 or 0.357

other chores to consider

disassemble the trigger bar and polish part that rubes again the plunger .

disassemble the plunger and polish the head that rubes against the trigger bar

take all the machine tool marks on the plunger shaft { very important } I put that on a drill press and run a fine file across and a 800 grind paper to make it as smooth as possible

polish the surface of your sear { front and under, { the part that rubes against the hammer } and cut the secondary angel on it if you feel confident of doing that yourself.

this should produce 7 lb double action and 2.75 single action pull .

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some are more reliable with other springs....my stock3 sets off more reliably with the same parts than my stock2 with the same hammer spring. Don't tweak that sear spring too much....as it may cause issues with the working relationship of the firing pin block and the firing pin. The block has to come down out of the path of the firing pin at just the right moment (and also return back up into the slide)....if the block is dirty, or binds or catches on anything, you may not get a good primer hit.(or no hit at all). A factory pin likes a very polished firing pin block....while I learned recently that the Eric pin prefers the factory barely smoothed block. the Eric pin occassionally in dryfire got stuck ahead of the block...once i put a new one in,..it has worked great for at least 800rds. I would say a 14 or 15lb spring should work well all the time...where as the 13lb is iffy....Remember that a 13lb spring is much longer than the 14 or 15lb,...and has more material to compress (yes it is lighter, but at what cost?)...another thing to note is how far back your hammer goes before being released in DA. If the gun has been buggered with too much, or incorrectly, you may get a short travel and release in DA,...and only be reliable in SA. If you want to see if your sear is causing any problems, simply remove the sear, sear axle and sear spring and put the sear cage in by itself....voila,....DAO.

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try firing it in practice without the FPB.....if it does not malfunction, than the culprit is the relationship between the block and the pin, and not too light of a hammer spring or too heavy of a firing pin spring.

my stock 2 is roughly 7.5lbs DA....2.5 SA...reset is decent, I have been told it is smooth. My Stock3 is about 8lbs DA, although 2.5lbs SA is shorter for reset.

Edited by Mo Hepworth
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I found that the factory recoil springs were all over the place....I have had long 10lb,...short 10lb, 11lb,....and experimented with 8lbs. The 8lbs I found could shoot flat, but I found that depended on the ammo, also the slide does not close to my liking, ...slows down as the gun gets dirty. I prefer a short 10lb. I think wolf sells them. Eric sells them, but I found they were longer....not sure why, except that they could be for large frame. Henning sells the recoil springs as well as a bunch of parts.

Parts that effect the smoothness of the DA and the stack at the end of the DA press are the trigger bar /plunger travel....and especially the Sear cage and trigger bar engagement. If you remove the sear cage, you will see the angled edges at the rear,...your trigger bar contacts that and goes down at the end of its travel...polish and lube that area....

Edited by Mo Hepworth
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try firing it in practice without the FPB.....if it does not malfunction, than the culprit is the relationship between the block and the pin, and not too light of a hammer spring or too heavy of a firing pin spring.

my stock 2 is roughly 7.5lbs DA....2.5 SA...reset is decent, I have been told it is smooth. My Stock3 is about 8lbs DA, although 2.5lbs SA is shorter for reset.

What Hammer spring is in it?

Does it pop everything?

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Here's my spring set up

15lbs Wolfe Hammer Spring cut 2 coils (13lbs cut 3 coils for Federal Primers)

9lb wolfe recoil spring

SA trigger return Spring

firing pin spring cut 4 coils (if your pin is sticking out in the breechface you cut too much)

sear spring bent (im using a CZ Sear spring)

stock FB Spring cut 3 coils, Wolfe a lot of coils have to be cut

every internal part polished seems to pop even CCI primers

DA 6.5

SA 2-2.5

Edited by ogiebb
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Here's my spring set up

15lbs Wolfe Hammer Spring cut 2 coils (13lbs cut 3 coils for Federal Primers)

9lb wolfe recoil spring

SA trigger return Spring

firing pin spring cut 4 coils (if your pin is sticking out in the breechface you cut too much)

sear spring bent (im using a CZ Sear spring)

stock FB Spring cut 3 coils, Wolfe a lot of coils have to be cut

every internal part polished seems to pop even CCI primers

DA 6.5

SA 2-2.5

15lbs is the factory spring weight right? (just so we are clear)

Thank you for the information.

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Here's my spring set up

15lbs Wolfe Hammer Spring cut 2 coils (13lbs cut 3 coils for Federal Primers)

9lb wolfe recoil spring

SA trigger return Spring

firing pin spring cut 4 coils (if your pin is sticking out in the breechface you cut too much)

sear spring bent (im using a CZ Sear spring)

stock FB Spring cut 3 coils, Wolfe a lot of coils have to be cut

every internal part polished seems to pop even CCI primers

DA 6.5

SA 2-2.5

15lbs is the factory spring weight right? (just so we are clear)

Thank you for the information.

i dont think 15lbs is the factory weight, coils on the factory spring seems thicker and waaaay heavier than the 15lb wolfe

biggest improvement i felt on the SA was the modded CZ shadow sear spring has 1 coil/turn less than the factory.

Edited by ogiebb
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try firing it in practice without the FPB.....if it does not malfunction, than the culprit is the relationship between the block and the pin, and not too light of a hammer spring or too heavy of a firing pin spring.

my stock 2 is roughly 7.5lbs DA....2.5 SA...reset is decent, I have been told it is smooth. My Stock3 is about 8lbs DA, although 2.5lbs SA is shorter for reset.

What Hammer spring is in it?

Does it pop everything?

Yep...pops everything. I usually run some hydrashok or factory ammo thru it to make sure...cci primers I have no issue. ALso, the remanufactured ammo I use is made with winchester primers and a mix of other stuff.

I like some extra assurance so I think I am using the 15lb....although it could be a new 14lb. The 14lb and 15lb are VERY easy to get mixed up. THe factory spring used to be 16 lbs and short and very stiff,...although the stock3 I received recently "appears" to have a 15lb factory,..I believe I am using the 14lb. There is no way to mistake the 16lb spring and the 13lb spring,.....the 16lb is the shortest, while the 13lb is the longest. IF you order springs from Wolf, I believe it listed under the European AA,,, short transverse springs,...or it could be under tanfoglio. ....OR...order direct from Eric.

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Ben, my Jericho has a long hammer spring like a CZ, so it isn't really apples to apples, but a reduced power trigger plunger spring and a plunger polished to a mirror finish really help the DA pull (a Huening roller plunger is the holy grail of Tanfo tuning), mine is in the 5 1/2# range with an 11.5# hammer spring. I cut down a large frame firing pin to fit and it sets off anything.

A back burner project project of mine is a ball bearing plunger.

Edited by kneelingatlas
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nope... I polished my firing pin block so it would not get hung up and move around the oem firing pin easier....with the ERic pin,...you should do as little polishing to the block as you can ...in fact..just use it as is unless you find it is not moving easily in the slide. Furing pin looks like the OEM,..but slightly longer, and of much better quality. Peening will not be an issue.

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