SA Only Conversion.

[Lubecktech]

What would be involved in converting my large frame witness from DA/SA to SA only?

I actually llike the trigger on my witness but if I press it too slowly it will often fall to half cock rather than dropping fully. Would it be possible to remove the half cock notch from the hammer to eliminate the problem?? Eventually I have thought about putting in one of Henning's flat trigers and associated parts but have that on hold until the ammunition situation gets better. I am trying to keep money available so when I run into primers/powder at a reasonable prices I am ready. Reloading components are available at sane prices BUT they seldom last for more than half an hour. So far I should have enough primers to last me thru the season but I'd like to have a 5K buffer just in case.

[JB38Super]

Couple of things.

Conversion is doable (actually pretty easy). Change some components (hammer, sear, tirgger, etc). If you are considering the Henning flat trigger, that would be a good path.

However, if the only trouble you are having is the hammer catching the half cock notch, that's a simple fix. Or at least by someone who knows the gun

Jim

[kneelingatlas]

At minimum, just removing the disconnector from the hammer, but that would result in large amount of pre-travel; the SAO conversions I do involve a SAO hammer and trigger. I like the hammer/trigger from the CZ Tactical Sport, they're cheap and easy to get, plus they have a nice, crisp release:

The double action issue you're describing is a timing problem; there should be a few posts on here describing the fix.

Edited May 6, 2013 by kneelingatlas

[Nealio]

At minimum, just removing the disconnector from the hammer, but that would result in large amount of pre-travel; the SAO conversions I do involve a SAO hammer and trigger. I like the hammer/trigger from the CZ Tactical Sport, they're cheap and easy to get, plus they have a nice, crisp release:

So you're telling me you ordered a CZ TS trigger and hammer, and it dropped right in?

[Lubecktech]

I noticed in my original post I didn't make clear that my problem occurs in SA only (DA wotks well) but it does seem like the hammer is falling before the sear is fully out of the way and the half cock notches are catching on them. It olny happens when I press the trigger slowly and not when shooting rapidly and I am starting to wonder if there might be excessive sear cage movement. From what I understand the sear cage should move slightly - is this correct?

[kneelingatlas]

At minimum, just removing the disconnector from the hammer, but that would result in large amount of pre-travel; the SAO conversions I do involve a SAO hammer and trigger. I like the hammer/trigger from the CZ Tactical Sport, they're cheap and easy to get, plus they have a nice, crisp release:

So you're telling me you ordered a CZ TS trigger and hammer, and it dropped right in?

No, the holes on the CZ parts are smaller, so they need to be drilled out, but they work pretty great.

[Nealio]

I noticed in my original post I didn't make clear that my problem occurs in SA only (DA wotks well) but it does seem like the hammer is falling before the sear is fully out of the way and the half cock notches are catching on them. It olny happens when I press the trigger slowly and not when shooting rapidly and I am starting to wonder if there might be excessive sear cage movement. From what I understand the sear cage should move slightly - is this correct?

The sear cage movement shouldn't effect this. What it sounds like is either your sear is rounded off so its slipping off the main hook before the trigger is fully engaged, or your overtravel screw is just a tad too tight..

[Lubecktech]

I don't have an over travel screw but David at Cajun Gunworks just sent me a picture of where he uses a diamond knife sharpener to modify the disconnector to correct the problem. I would like to study more about the disconnector operation and proper fitting of a new one before undertaking this - any ideas as to where I could find some good info??

[jmbaccolyte]

What would be involved in converting my large frame witness from DA/SA to SA only?

I actually llike the trigger on my witness but if I press it too slowly it will often fall to half cock rather than dropping fully. Would it be possible to remove the half cock notch from the hammer to eliminate the problem?? Eventually I have thought about putting in one of Henning's flat trigers and associated parts but have that on hold until the ammunition situation gets better. I am trying to keep money available so when I run into primers/powder at a reasonable prices I am ready. Reloading components are available at sane prices BUT they seldom last for more than half an hour. So far I should have enough primers to last me thru the season but I'd like to have a 5K buffer just in case.

Lubeckteck,

More knowledgeable guys already answered this, but I would get Henning's flat trigger and the hammer and sear, now if you want a SAO. Everyone I've talked to who can't get primers/powder now are saving their money for when they are available. In other words, prices aren't coming down to reasonable levels anytime soon. I don't know how much disposable income you've got, but it's been six months and I'm afraid we may be talking another six before prices finally come back down on primers & powder.

Last November, my regular reloading components dealer wanted to limit me to 2,000 primers, so everyone could get some without price gouging. I respect him, but right or wrong, I went down the aisle and paid 10% more and bought the quantity I wanted from someone else.

Edited May 7, 2013 by jmbaccolyte

[Lubecktech]

Actually I will probably delay the M48 sniper build I have been working on and finish this gun. I am using it more and more in USPSA and would like to have it where I want it in the next few weeks. It still has a problem with occaisional premature slide lock I need to work on too but that should be relatively simple. Possibly as simple as changing the style of bullit I am using in it. As long as I have about $200.00 on my card at all times I will be able to score 5k small pistol primers sometime over the next couple of months. I don't look for the reloading component situation to improve much in the near future and it may get worse but components are available at reasonable prices IF you have your butt near a chair when the music stops. Last week I was able to get 5k of small rifle primers for $189.00 shipped - 12 minutes after they were released they were sold out. I use a couple of programs that scan various vendors and alert me when stuff is released for sale. Fortunately I work at a job where I can act when the opportunity presents it's self and even then you've got to be quick.

[jmbaccolyte]

Last November I paid 27% less than that and my regular supplier was even cheaper.

Are you going for historical accuracy on the Yugo Mauser build or trying to build a really accurate rifle? Consensus is that the Mauser actions are too flexible for super accuracy. I like Mausers and plan to have a deer rifle built someday on my Czech version.

[Lubecktech]

On the Mauser I am going for "semi-period correct" for the post WWII/cold war era. I am using an Accumounts LSR side mount which is designed for the Masuser and their reproduction PE scope ($219 shipped with the mount).

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Soviet-Russian-Mosin-nagant-91-30-PE-PEM-sniper-scope-and-mount-combo-/310649116147?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item48542155f3#ht_1743wt_665

I don't shoot the Mauser iron sights well so I wanted a scope to help me but didn't want to make it into what I consider a "sporterized" rifle. The rifle's former owner had a angled bolt handle installed and with this configuration I should be able to use stripper clips and the open sights at close distances with the scope zeroed at 200 yards. This is an M48 (milled) as opposed to a M48A (stamped) so I don't expect super accuracy but I think the milled receiver is a decent choice for a scope. Anyway my shooting is mainly within 300 yards and I have a Mosin which is not original but is a sniper replica that works well on 10" steel plates at these distances and that works for me. While this setup is not historically accurate I feel it is representative of the equipment of the era without costing a fortune. I have been griped at by people on some of the military surplus forums as this rifle was purchased in unissued condition and it's former owner put about 200 rounds thru it. The mount I have chosen will detract from it's collector value but I don't buy guns to sell nor do I have safe queens - guns are to be shot and enjoyed. As for it's monitary value to collector it will drop BUT I think if it works out well the "coolness" factor will increase it's market value.

[Lubecktech]

I got one of Henning's flat triggers and all I had to do was remove the DA disconnector. There was slight amount of fitting needed as even with the pre-travel adjustment all the way in the trigger was not comming far enough forward for reliable reset. I removed a little material from the face of the pre-travel screw and it now resets perfectly. This trigger gives the gun a completely different feel that I really like (feels like a different gun!) with almost no overtravel. Henning had the trigger in the mail within a few minutes of my order so all of this worked out well. I will eventually convert my RIA MAPP (tanfoglio clone) but use a Cajun Gun Works trigger to keep the cost down and the MAPP being a small frame will feel better with a trgger which is not as wide as Henning's trigger.