625 trigger randomly not resetting

[alecmc]

I've got a 625 that was worked on, full competition trigger job.

After my past range trip I am noticing that occasionally in slow fire the trigger will not reset all the way, gets stuck about half way, i've i tap it again it'll break free.

Rapid fire doesnt seem to be a problem, just slow.

Problem? Possible spring issue? Or ( most likely ) Is she dirty as all hell and gummed up? I did my best to clean out with a q-tip and lightly lube, still doing it. Trying my best to do it without taking all the components apart.

Picture shows where it's getting stuck

Edited December 20, 2012 by alecmc

[Tom E]

If it had been ok previously that would indicate it's dirty and/or needing a little lube. May be that the rebound spring is marginally light. I'd get rid of the floating hand. I'm surprised that whoever did your "full competition trigger job" left that in.

[Toolguy]

I would suggest to radius and polish the 2 corners that are touching, one on the rebound slide and one on the hammer. Also polish the 2 flats where the hammer and rebound slide meet when the slide is all the way forward. Also radius and polish the front part of the trigger where it passes by the cylinder stop and the angle that it's touching on the cylinder stop. If that doesn't work, you need a slightly heavier rebound spring.

I would agree that someone is not up to speed on what a "full competition trigger job" entails.

Edited December 20, 2012 by Toolguy

[alecmc]

I guess I answered my own question, gunked up pretty good.

I was a little nervous taking everything out ( First time ) - But it really wasnt that bad at all. stripped the entire thing, scrubbed it down with some hoppes, wipped clean. reassembled and lubed.

Working real nice right now, nice clean 4.75lb - 5lb trigger.

On the other notes, I'm not familar with the other hand options, floating hand vs ????

Regardless, I'm happy with my gunsmith, I trust his word and his experience speaks for itself. IMO the 625 came out wonderful

What else could of possibly be done to it though?

[alecmc]

Stripped and cleaned:

( yes, i realize the hand wasnt completly in the slot in this picture )

Edited December 20, 2012 by alecmc

[johnmac]

I concur with Tom on losing the floating hand. It's a big reliability issue. My 625-3 had one, and would become unreliable when even a little bit dirty. But it was not an issue with trigger reset, it prevented carry up...I'd pull the trigger, and nothing would happen. I dropped in a standard forged N-frame hand I ordered from Midway, and presto, no more problems, it runs great.

Here's some history on the floating hand issue:

http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-smithing/122776-floating-hand.html

Edited December 20, 2012 by johnmac

[toothguy]

Alecmc, the rebound surfaces that Toolguy mentioned are really important. Toolguy polishes those surfaces on a fine Scotch brite wheel, It looks like chrome when he's is done. Even with the gun filthy, when the rebound slide returns even slowly you can hear a slight click but their is no resistance. I use mobil 1 to oil the rebound slide and stay away from any grease in that area.

If you need just a little more spring power, you can take your existing rebound spring, using needle nose pliers and slightly stretch the spring. Just stretch a little at a time reinstall and check the feel. You can do this without a rebound spring tool but having one sure makes it a lot easier.

Edited December 20, 2012 by toothguy

[alecmc]

I'll look into polishing out the rebound areas for the future, I've probably put about 3500-4000 rounds through it before it got that dirty.

Just polish up the rebound spring block bottom? Do the sides of the rebound block actually touch the sides of the frame and plate cover or no?

Toothguy, you use regular old 10-30w mobil 1 oil for the internals? I lubed it up with some lightweight oil upon reassembly last night. What's my best option for lubrication in XXXX areas?

Reinstalling the rebound spring without the tool wasnt that bad, i was able to use a small allen key to recess the spring into the cavity then push the block down.

Also, if I replace the floating hand for a rigid one, am I likely to have to adjust timing? ( need to file down the tip of the hand till correct right? )

Edited December 20, 2012 by alecmc

[Toolguy]

Read post #3 to see where to polish. I use a Scotchbrite wheel on a grinder. With it you can do in seconds what takes hours with a stone and a Dreaded Dremel with polishing compound. You can also overdo in a few more seconds.

Mobil 1 oil is very good. I use chainsaw bar & chain oil because it clings to the lockwork parts. Only use a very thin oil where the cylinder turns on the crane. I don't shoot in cold weather any more, so don't have to worry about viscocity issues.

There is a good chance you can drop in the new hand and run. If the hand is too wide you can file the inside of the tip to thin it down with a diamond file. Do not make the hand shorter by filing on the top.

[toothguy]

I'll look into polishing out the rebound areas for the future, I've probably put about 3500-4000 rounds through it before it got that dirty.

Just polish up the rebound spring block bottom? Do the sides of the rebound block actually touch the sides of the frame and plate cover or no?

Toothguy, you use regular old 10-30w mobil 1 oil for the internals? I lubed it up with some lightweight oil upon reassembly last night. What's my best option for lubrication in XXXX areas?

Reinstalling the rebound spring without the tool wasnt that bad, i was able to use a small allen key to recess the spring into the cavity then push the block down.

Also, if I replace the floating hand for a rigid one, am I likely to have to adjust timing? ( need to file down the tip of the hand till correct right? )

Warren, (Toolguy) built all my guns and the rebound slide is polished on all sides. He also smoothed the back and bottom of the frame that the slide sits on. Very little resistance no sharp edges. For lube I use what I have for my cars, Synthetic 5w-20w or 10w-30w. I oil just where there are friction areas. I don't use grease it seems to clump with crud and cause more problems than it helps. For periotic lubrication I place a little oil inside the trigger and hammer area and the front of the cylinder crane area. I blow out any excess with compressed air from cans I get at Office Max. Try to keep the area under the star dry, it will collect crud and keep the star from fully seating, effecting your trigger pull.

A new N frame hand will need to be fit to your existing cylinder ratchets. You fit it by using a diamond file to smooth the inner tip of the hand that meets the ratchet. Do a little at a time and check, at first the cylinder stop will engage to early. When you get close you will be able to pull the trigger all the way through but you will still feel the resistance from the hand tip being just a little to long. At this point I stop using the file and use a small scotch brite wheel on the dremel. You can leave a little hitch in the pull and when you fire about 100 rds it will be perfect. I get diamond files from Harbor Freight, you can get a set for around $8.

I am very lucky that Warren took the time to show me how to maintain my revolvers. I was able to watch him work on my guns and others to learn.

[Patrick1981]

From the pics I seems to see the old style coils return springs..

Anyway, maybe you cut too much this spring ?

[alecmc]

From the pics I seems to see the old style coils return springs..

Anyway, maybe you cut too much this spring ?

My problem is fixed, everything was gunked up with grit and needed to be cleaned.

I may look into some further stoning and polishing in the future though