XDman Posted November 5, 2012 Share Posted November 5, 2012 (edited) I have an older DPMS National Match upper with carry handle upper, I think a 20 or 24 in heavy barrel, old style triangle forend. I want to convert this for varmint hunting with a flat top reciever, low profile gas block and nonrailed forend first and then maybe build another topend for 3 gun. What tools do I need to build a topend, or for my limited use would it be better for me to buy the topends already built? Just as a side, this topend is mated to a Bushmaster lower made about 15 years ago. And yes it came with the full length solid stock. Edited November 5, 2012 by XDman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jetracer013 Posted November 5, 2012 Share Posted November 5, 2012 You need: Bench block- used to clamp the upper/rifle in a vise AR Armorers wrench Handguard removal tool -don't skip this one a good set of punches assorted allen wrenches, regular wrenches, I highly recommend building your new upper. They are not hard to work on and it is very rewarding, not to mention educational. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XDman Posted November 5, 2012 Author Share Posted November 5, 2012 If I go with building, which brand of reciever? Gas block? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EkuJustice Posted November 5, 2012 Share Posted November 5, 2012 For the upper, pretty much any complete(with the bolt assist and door installed) or stripped lower will work just fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jetracer013 Posted November 5, 2012 Share Posted November 5, 2012 In my experience, receiver doesn't matter. They are all built to the same spec. You can buy a machined receiver but, they are a lot more money. Gas block will depend on what barrel/ tube you get. I would say find your barrel first, then buy a gas block made of the same material that will fit under the tube. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
latech15 Posted November 5, 2012 Share Posted November 5, 2012 I have seen handguard removal tools before, but I honestly had to google how and why they would be used. I have removed plenty of handguards without this tool. For either of the applications that you stated, you will want to ditch the handguard that you have in favor of a free floated one. I wouldn't buy a tool that you will only use once that you could certainly perform the task without. Other than that, I agree with Jetracer's recommendations. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgtsvi Posted November 5, 2012 Share Posted November 5, 2012 I bought a handguard removal tool at the gun show for $20. It's not a bad tool to have in case you ever need one for future rifle work and will save you lots of cussing fits for those handguards that don't cooperate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EkuJustice Posted November 5, 2012 Share Posted November 5, 2012 the handguard tool isnt needed. If you cant do it yourself, an extra set of hands makes it easy one pulls down on the delta ring the other person removes the handguard. For a shop or smith planning to do a bunch of them ya they arnt a bad thing to have but not needed for a person swapping out his own Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sleepswithdogs Posted November 7, 2012 Share Posted November 7, 2012 (edited) I have an older DPMS National Match upper with carry handle upper, I think a 20 or 24 in heavy barrel, old style triangle forend. I want to convert this for varmint hunting with a flat top reciever, low profile gas block and nonrailed forend first and then maybe build another topend for 3 gun. What tools do I need to build a topend, or for my limited use would it be better for me to buy the topends already built? Just as a side, this topend is mated to a Bushmaster lower made about 15 years ago. And yes it came with the full length solid stock. Brownell's sells a set of tools for the AR, $99 that has a lot of good stuff. You need: Armor's wrench (to tighten the barrel nut, etc.) Clam shell Action block (to hold the upper while you torque the barrel nut) Lower receiver vice block is nice (to hold the lower while your working on it) Roll Pin punches!!! Don't forget some roll pin starter punches. Makes life much easier Small hammer, brass on one side, plastic on the other. Keeps from marring things up. Vice grips, (good to push some pins in with) Vice, (hard to do without this when you torque the barrel) Torque Wrench (bad things happen when too much or too little torque is applied to the barrel nut. Very bad things ) Cheap ones can be had, choose foot pounds. Inch pound torque wrench is also very handy for scope mounts, any small screws. Some Blue Locktite, and I really like the $10 mini torch to break locktite loose. They have'em at HomeD. This may sound like a lot, but it's really not that much and it gives you the freedom to work on the rifle any time you care to. That's all I can think of at the moment (except, Trois Piostoles, hmmm that's good beer!!!) Tar Edited November 7, 2012 by Sleepswithdogs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Griffin Posted November 8, 2012 Share Posted November 8, 2012 I finally broke down and ordered some proper roll pin punches. Regular punches plus lots of protective masking tape work fairly well, but I still usually wind up with one small ding. DPMS makes a dandy plain handguard, you can find it on Brownell's or at Del-Ton, $50 for rifle-length 12". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XDman Posted November 8, 2012 Author Share Posted November 8, 2012 Thanks, Have the DPMS armourers tool, some punches and a vice. I ordered the reciever block combo from Brownell along with a flat top reciever and a lowprofile gasblock and 15 in jp forend. Should be here today. Figured I could rob the other parts from the carry handle upper. Guess I have my project for this weekend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sleepswithdogs Posted November 8, 2012 Share Posted November 8, 2012 Strongly suggest you also get your hands on a torque wrench. Likely you can get the use of one for free by going to O'Riely's or Auto Zone, put down a small deposit and you can have it all day. They give you back your deposit when you bring it back. It is very important to get the barrel nut tightened down to the proper torque. After doing some cylinder heads several times my hands had a pretty good idea of the proper torque, but will always use a torque wrench when one is around, and this is a very good place to use one. Tar Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Griffin Posted November 9, 2012 Share Posted November 9, 2012 Strongly suggest you also get your hands on a torque wrench. Likely you can get the use of one for free by going to O'Riely's or Auto Zone, put down a small deposit and you can have it all day. They give you back your deposit when you bring it back. It is very important to get the barrel nut tightened down to the proper torque. After doing some cylinder heads several times my hands had a pretty good idea of the proper torque, but will always use a torque wrench when one is around, and this is a very good place to use one. Tar Harbor Freight has them for $20, usually you have to get an adapter to go from 1/2 to 3/4. Some barrel nuts line up at the low end (which feels like "pretty darned tight, but not crazy") and some line up at the top end (which feels like "holy crap, I hope I don't rip this thing in half!) If you find yourself stuck at 65lbs and not lined up, a tiny, tiny, tiny smear of grease on the barrel shoulder will reduce the force needed by 20lbs or so. by tiny, I mean a dot of grease the size of a poppy seed, then give it a wipe with a paper towel to remove some of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smokecloud Posted November 14, 2012 Share Posted November 14, 2012 Lots of good advice here, the only thing I would add, is at least a "no-go" guage, i have all 3, but its a good piece of mind to know that everything you just bolted together is ok to fire before you pull the trigger. I even have friends buy new rifles that bring them by my house to guage it before they go shooting for the first time. This is especially important if your not buying top shelf items. Prices vary greatly on punches, I have cheap ones and expensive ones, but shopping around is worth your time. One of my Starret's broke two days ago and I almost cried, I ended up using a harbor freight punch to finish the job. Starter punches are great to have and definitely make the job easier, but are not necessary if you are patient. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XDman Posted November 15, 2012 Author Share Posted November 15, 2012 (edited) Have a torque wrench. Completed the job and the nut lined up with 62 lbs of torque. It almost felt too easy to do the upgrade. Now to test fire! Beware you damn coyotes, I'm almost ready! I went with a YHM stripped upper, JP 15 in vented handguard, and low profile gas block from Brownells. All the rest came off the previous upper. Edited November 15, 2012 by XDman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smokecloud Posted November 15, 2012 Share Posted November 15, 2012 62 is great! anything over 30 is good. I remember the feeling I had after completing my first build, it was very cool, almost as if I had been freed from some sort of great fear. The only bad part is that you will always be wanting to tinker with it, try this handguard, or that gas block, swap out this for that and eventually you get a box-o-parts that you could build an entire AR out of, but dont because its not what you want, but all the extra parts are somehow comforting to have, just in case. Its also great trade stock for when you start helping friends put theirs together. I have never charged friends to build a gun, but usually they end up upgrading a part somwhere along the line and they throw the old one in my box of parts like its a penny jar. Most of the time during the build, they also need something out of that box to complete their guns, so it all comes out in the wash. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Griffin Posted November 16, 2012 Share Posted November 16, 2012 Very true, that's why my MKIII has a Miculek comp on it. I have no idea if it helps, but it sure does look cool. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1chota Posted November 16, 2012 Share Posted November 16, 2012 sometimes a rock is handy. (i have witnesses!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now