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Fixed one 550 problem on to the next.(user error most likely)


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So I fixed my primer issues thanks to those that responded to that post. I now have a question about my case gauging. So far I have made 200 rounds out of those two hundred rounds 32 rounds fail to fit in my Lyman .40 case gauge, or down the barrel of my glock 24 kkm. My buddy is telling me its the brass I'm using (range brass I picked myself).

I did a test to see if my sizing die was doing a good job it's a Lee/egw undersize die. I did 20 cases in just the resizing/deprime die and they all case gauged. After I finished them through the other dies 2 did not pass the gauge so that tells me that somewhere between the sizing die and crimp die something is deforming my cases. My press is fairly smooth but the cases do get stuck in the powder die specifically around the powder funnel. I really do have to put some weight behind my upward stroke to dislodge it. I did take some sand paper to it but its still seems to stick. Could this be causing deformity or is this really a cause of bad brass? While picking brass seems economical it might not be if I'm tossing 150 rounds for every thousand. My gut is telling me that the likely culprit is something I set up on the press wrong and not my brass. Any suggestions?

Edited by jonb.
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Here is a tip for you. Put the 40 round into the case gage primer first (I'M referring to the ones that don't fit), if the go in 1/3 of the way (actually mine will go all the way in) then it is not a fat case, it is more likley an issue with OAL. When you come back to the post include the bullet mfg type you are using, OAL etc some details to work with. I assume you have Calipers and can provide measurements of both good and bad cases?

Another tip, and this will start a fire storm from the ECG U-Die fan club, I tired the U-Die, it helped but is was no cure. I purchased one of the early model Redding GRX units with the bottle put it in a $20 lee single stage press and that my friend is a cure. First I did all brass then I got hit with a streak of lazy and only pushed thru the ones that did not drop check. Do it right push them all thru.

I like the Hornady die best followed a ways back by dillon, I started with Lee I got RID of THEM, THEY SUCK, but they are cheap and easy to get, go figure.

Sorry I just got done GRINDING the indexing pawl on my Dillon 650, after it drove me nuts, the thing is possesed. Leave it alone a few days and it gets mad and won't load.

I love my Lock-N-Load go Red, Hornady Rules. Also on pain killers and antibotics so its getting wierd.

Edited by CocoBolo
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I'm using moly 180 grain bullets. 15 of the 32 will not go into the case 1/3 of the way OAL does not seem to change. Between those that go 1/3 of the way in the gauge those that do, and those that pass they are between 1.123, and 1.125 I blame the variances on trying to push them out of my case gauge trying to cycle them, and just the general mistreatment of my crap rounds.

My machine is set to give me a 1.125 OAL .416 crimp using 180 grain moly sitting on top of mixed range brass .40 s&w. Yes they were clean and tumbled.

Edited by jonb.
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Jon, do they drop into the case gauge backwards? Drop the finished round in primer side first. If it drops all the way down, then your bullets are seating crooked.

I shoot range pick up brass, too. I highly doubt it's the issue.

It may also be too much crimp.

here is an easy way to 'cheat' on crimp die adjustment. Put a sized, unflared case into the last station.Pull the handle down, elevating the case. With your fingers, screw the crimp die down until it stops. Lift up the handle a bit, turn the die down an additional 1/4 turn. That should get you within 1/4-1/2 turn of being where you need to be.

That tip is from dillon. I usually screw it down until it stops, just like they say, and add 1/2 turn to that. That has been enough crimp for me.

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Ok now we are getting some where, definatley if they won't go in the case gauge basakwards then they are fat boys. Tile to get the Redding GRX. Before I got mine I was running about 10% rejects with range brass after 0%.

Those are very short for 180gr Moly bullets, so you better tell us what powder you are using and how much, just a safety check. For my STI I run 1.185 to 1.200 depending on which powder I'm using, and consider 1.140 the shortest length safe with a fast powder for competition. (cause blowing the top of the case or having it split kind of ruiens your match score). My rounds won't drop al the way in the case guage due to bullet length but they fit backwards so the need to test them both ways, was developed.

Is there a reason you picked that short OAL? Possibly that tupperware gun?

You picked a little harder to load bullet than jacketed but those moly's are my favorite in 40. Takes a bit more skill to get right than jacketed.

Make sure you are not cutting the moly when seating the bullet or you will wind up leading up the barrel. If you are cutting it give it a little more bell.

The crimp. I use about what the dillon guy recommends, 1/2 turn. Are you using a taper crimp die? Or are you using the dreaded Lee FCD crimp die? I say dreaded because for moly bullets it is a no no, as it will undersize the bullet and cause it to wobble down the barrel leaving a nice deposit of moly and lead.

The measurement on the ones that go or no go at theis point is the base diameter right above the rim, this is to show 100% sure that it has that beer belly that won't let it fit.

Also some measurements just below the case mouth to get an idea of how much crimp you are applying.

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I'm using moly 180 grain bullets. 15 of the 32 will not go into the case 1/3 of the way OAL does not seem to change. Between those that go 1/3 of the way in the gauge those that do, and those that pass they are between 1.123, and 1.125 I blame the variances on trying to push them out of my case gauge trying to cycle them, and just the general mistreatment of my crap rounds.

My machine is set to give me a 1.125 OAL .416 crimp using 180 grain moly sitting on top of mixed range brass .40 s&w. Yes they were clean and tumbled.

1.123-1.125 is not much variance. If you measure every round, you'll probably see you actually have more variance than that.

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GRRRR... This is getting ridiculous. So I did have wobble SOOooooo I opened my bell a hair and started taking care to seat my bullets more carefully. So here is what happened.

Out of 100 this time I dumped about 30 15 had bulge so bad they didn't even go half way down into the case guage. Here's a picture.IMAG0816.jpg

The other half are coming close but still not a winner.

IMAG0814.jpg

Here are the winners.

IMAG0819.jpg

]

So now do I take the belling back down since my yield was better before, or do I assume I randomly am seating these suckers crooked or brass bulge... or what?

I'm not gonna lie I'm getting pretty frustrated.

Any way to salvage the duds?

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My good rounds.

IMAG0820.jpg

My "missed it by that much" rounds.

IMAG0820.jpg

Last my no way in hell rounds.

IMAG0815.jpg

Now I did try the backwards method Jae was talking about and the roll check and like I said I did see some wobble from quite a few rounds.

Here's a question can I size and deprime at station one then case gauge just my brass? Then I could save the ones with too much bulge for later when I get the extra kit.

Should I try making my crimp tighter?

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Yes...if you remove a case from the press after just sizing it, and it doesn't gauge, then it wasn't sized properly. If it doesn't pass the gauge at that point, there's no point in continuing with it, because it can only get worse when you add a bullet to it.

Edited by njl
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It's me... My bullets were not seating straight I've gotten the hang of it and I'm down to about 10% failure to guage I think with more practice this will get better. (it helps to NOT use the round nose seating side in the seat die)

Any tricks to seating the bullet straight faster without practice?

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