Polishing

[9X23Guy]

I've looked around and haven't quite found what I'm looking for. I have a few things I want to polish, the lifter on my FN SLP and my STI mags. I'm looking for that mirrored finish. Can anyone walk me through step by step. Am I looking at polishing compound, fine grit sandpaper? Thanks in advance.

[carbon9]

If you are doing a larger flat surface like you mentioned polishing compound and at least a 4" buffing wheel on a dedicated buffing/grinding machine. It turns out a more even polish and a bench mounted machine lets you lay into it with a little more pressure. Both surfaces you mention seem pretty smooth already, if not, you can use a fine scotchbrite wheel first. For mirror stainless on a fairly smooth surface I use a blue polishing compound from RioGrande first and then one of the platinum ones to finish, it seems to leave more of a bright WHITE finish then the blue or gray, oddly enough.

[Pop N Fresh]

for smaller stuff I've always used a felt wheel on a dremel and some flitz

[larry weeks]

Brownells original Gunsmith Kinks book has instructions on polishing written by Bob Brownell. Probably more involved than you need for just doing a lifter but you'll see what is involved. We also have all the compounds and wheels you'll need. I'd use stitched muslin wheels (about a 1/2" to 1" thick stack of them) and start with one of the higher grit compounds, 320 or so, and jump right to the 555 black. It will take a bit to get the 320 scratches out by skipping the grits in between but it will be bright and shiney in the end. Don't mix grits on wheels. Have one wheel set for 320 and another for the 555 black. A big loose muslin wheel with our 555 white will really get into the nooks and crannies and really make it shine. I think our smallest wheels are 6". You want a motor, pulley or dedicated buffer with a speed of about 1750 rpm. The high speed units will just rip the lifter out of your hand. Bigger wheels cut faster but have the same tendancy as higher rpm, they'll take something away from you if you lean on them. If you get a 1 hp Baldor buffer you'll have a lifetime machine and you can mount a Scott Murray drum and use sanding belts on it for a whole lot of other sanding operations. i got mine to polish aluminum for race cars and use it all the time in my gun tinkering and all sorts of other projects. Big horsepower won't bog if you lean on it. If you want to do more than just one lifter, don't get anything less than 3/4 hp. An old 1/4 hp motor and some pulleys will do fine for your one lifter project. Might take a while but you can do it. With my 1 hp Baldor (now 25+ years old), I done two front axles for '32 Fords, all the stainless trim for a 1950 Oldsmobile, parts for several sprint car restorations, 1911 hammers, mag wells, thumb and grip safeties and wouldn't want to be without it. The other day I used it to clean up the edges of some plates I made as part of making stands for some of those irritating 6" sq. knock off plates.

[carbon9]

+1 on the Baldor motor, one of the best tool investments, mine is only 15 or so years old. I have polished anything from Brass, Copper, SS, Titanium, Silver and Gold to Platinum on mine. Between that and a Foredom there isn't much you can't cover.

[9X23Guy]

Thanks Larry. I'll take a look.

[Silentbutdeadly]

for smaller stuff I've always used a felt wheel on a dremel and some flitz

Works well for me too......

[rooster mcbee]

I use a Dremel with a felt bob and Simichrome or Flitz for polishing smaller parts. I also have a kit from Brownells that has 6 blocks of different grits of polishing compounds that works well for removing scratches and then building up to that mirror finish.

[kneelingatlas]

For flat items I use automotive wet sanding paper stretched tight over a smooth block and lubed with gun oil; 600 grit, 1500, then 2000. For contoured parts I use a felt wheel with rubbing compound, polishing compound, then if I'm feeling especially AR, automotive wax.