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Rub marks underneath the C-More


mcoliver

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I'm seeing some rubs marks due to the ejected shells underneath the cmore body (at the lower edge corner below the c-more name). This is exactly at the ejection port when the slide is at full rearward cycle.

I think I've also reached a limit on how I can shape the ejector since I'm also seeing marks on the lower-inside part of the ejection port. And I don't want to open up the port by lowering it even more.

Can I just leave this alone? Or will it cause any long term effects on the cmore?

The gun runs fine, btw.

Thanks.

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My scope is beat to pieces as is the mount from spent shells hitting them. I think things are fixed with my new barrel, but I am not sure. Is there is a possibility the shells are actually being ejected too low, striking the ejection port, then bouning back up and hitting the scope?

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Is there is a possibility the shells are actually being ejected too low, striking the ejection port, then bouning back up and hitting the scope?

Yeah, I explored that possibility, too. So I worked on the ejector face until I can see minimal marks on that area (seems the rounds still hit it once in a while). Now the brass marks have transferred slightly above the extractor hooks, right where the ejection port flaring is.

One thing, though, is that the ejection pattern changes depending on how thick the shock buffs are. With 2 wilson blues, the shells are ejecting a more forward pattern.

Btw, this is with a 40cal gun. Hopefully, the cmore will last long enough for me to save on a 38 super top end.

Thanks guys.

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Sure the ejection pattern changes with buffs. Anything that changes the length of the slide stroke effectively changes the length of the ejector. A Sprinco or Recoil Master equipped gun will also eject differently than with a standard guide rod.

One way to cure the wear on your C-More would be to swing by a hobby shop and pick up some thin brass or aluminum sheet. Make a shield where the brass is hitting the scope.

JK

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Appreciate all the responses guys.

Brass will sometimes hang up on the nicks, especially old brass with rough rims.

I'm using a serendipity and I'm noticing some plastic burrs and nicks. Maybe I'll try running a fine grit sandpaper to remove them.

One way to cure the wear on your C-More would be to swing by a hobby shop and pick up some thin brass or aluminum sheet. Make a shield where the brass is hitting the scope.

Good idea. Will need to visit the hobby shops around. ;)

My open gun does the exact thing, but it extracts every single time and works flawlessly.

Rufus, has the wear on the c-more platic stopped up to some point? I was worried this area might be eaten up and start exposing the PC board inside.

Thanks guys.

:)

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mc_o: better hold back the urge with too much sanding and filing! knowing you, you'll end up taking too much out with the sand paper! hehehe :lol:

Hehe, yeah, I've restrained myself from holding the dremel or even sand paper. :D Instead, I fashioned a thin plate (out of a 3.5" floppy disk's steel sliding cover) that goes under the scope. I'll test it out this wekend and see how it holds up.

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