Ream or Swage

[Trident]

I have search, and read but still not clear.

New to .223 loading. I have several thousand .223 cases both OEM that i fired and range pick-up and have verified that some are crimped, maybe 30%.

So... I'm trying to decide the best way to prep this, and any other, brass. Ream or Swage?

I'm not really excited to hand sort the crimped from the not crimped, or for different head stamps for that matter, so I[m hoping to find a way, if there is such a thing, to do the everything at once. Is there a way?

Not really excited about reaming by hand, or by drill press or hand drill either.

Right now I was thinking to just buy the Dillion Super Swage 600 and just do them all, figuring it can't hurt, and will identify any loose pockets BUT, I think that I just read that in order to use the Dillion swagger that I will have to hand sort all this brass so back to the drawing board.

Do I have to pre-sort to use the Dillion Super Swage 600?

Whats your best brass prep solution and reload set-up?

[Guest]

I use a dillon 600 and don’t pre-sort, and it seems to work just fine. I do both reaming and sweging, and they both work fine if done right. If I am only doing a hundred or less I’ll often just do it by hand and use a lyman multi-tool (very good tool, btw) as it is about as quick and easy as using the 600 swege for small quantities. For bulk I use the 600 after trimming the cases and de-lubing them. Since the sweging process is clean and quiet and there is no hazardous material to worry about I usually will do it while watching TV inside the house, which makes it a little less of a chore. My only negative comment would be that the 600 is a little expensive to buy new. However, if you plan on reloading a boat load of .223, and a Dillon 1050 is not in your future, and you have the patients for processing .223 brass (a major pita – lots of folks understandably buy processed brass) then a 600 is a good investment.

[Trident]

I use a dillon 600 and don’t pre-sort, and it seems to work just fine. I do both reaming and sweging, and they both work fine if done right. If I am only doing a hundred or less I’ll often just do it by hand and use a lyman multi-tool (very good tool, btw) as it is about as quick and easy as using the 600 swege for small quantities. For bulk I use the 600 after trimming the cases and de-lubing them. Since the sweging process is clean and quiet and there is no hazardous material to worry about I usually will do it while watching TV inside the house, which makes it a little less of a chore. My only negative comment would be that the 600 is a little expensive to buy new. However, if you plan on reloading a boat load of .223, and a Dillon 1050 is not in your future, and you have the patients for processing .223 brass (a major pita – lots of folks understandably buy processed brass) then a 600 is a good investment.

Already have the 650 and all set up. No a 1050 is not in the near future.

I just spoke to Dillion and they say that it is not necessary to sort the brass prior to swaging even considering the difference in the case web. I have read differently. What is everyones experience.

If I swage do I still have to ream, and if so, what it the best tool and process to do that?

[Guest]

Just to be clear - The Dillon 600 is their Super Swage and is not a reloading machine. I have found that presorting the brass is not necessary with the Dillon 600. If you swage the primer pocket, reaming would be unnecessary since the primer crimp has already been removed.

[Solvability]

[Trident]

Yep, that would be the one. So.... no sorting and no reaming... Hmmmm, why isn't everyone not using them?

More expensive yes, but by what.... $50.00.... in this sport thats nothing....and it seems to be much quicker, easier, no sorting, no reaming, has to be a reason other than $$.

So... i guess I need to order one, and just do them all at once, then throw in the tumbler to clean pockets and lube.

[Solvability]

With all the new NT brass out there it is essential - used to be just Mil brass but not anymore.

[Mark K]

I have a super swage, and have stopped using it. I cut the crimp out with a 7/32" drill bit and can do 3 times more brass per minute that way.

I hold my cordless drill flat on the bench with a 3/32" bit installed, I pin the drill trigger back with a spring clip, and then touch the primer hole to the drill bit. The crimp is cut out in a split second. Any brass that does not have a crimp, or that you have previously cut has a larger surface area presented to the drill bit, and you can feel the greater resistance in a split second. You get the feel of it after just a few cartridges. Though this method cuts a little metal out, it is not enough to weaken the cartridge. If you do not like the idea of using a drill bit, a tool like this will work:

Crimp Tool

My process, is to resize and decap all my clean, lubed up brass, then clean the brass again enough to remove the lube, then cut the crimp out. I do it in this order, because it is a PITA to try and hold lubed brass.

I can do about 25 cases a minute or more.

I do this with 9mm pistol brass, though I do not process all 9mm brass this way, only the crimped stuff that I find during reloading.

I live near Ft. Benning, GA, so there is plenty of military brass that shows up at the range.

Mark K

[redbird1976]

I have an RCBS Case Prep Pro. It makes quick work of the crimped brass and also has stations for cleaning the neck and primer pockets.

[surfmaster]

I use the same method as you but I use the Hornady Primer Pocket Reamer, http://www.midwayusa.com/product/253550/hornady-primer-pocket-reamer-cutter-head-small .

I have a super swage, and have stopped using it. I cut the crimp out with a 7/32" drill bit and can do 3 times more brass per minute that way.

I hold my cordless drill flat on the bench with a 3/32" bit installed, I pin the drill trigger back with a spring clip, and then touch the primer hole to the drill bit. The crimp is cut out in a split second. Any brass that does not have a crimp, or that you have previously cut has a larger surface area presented to the drill bit, and you can feel the greater resistance in a split second. You get the feel of it after just a few cartridges. Though this method cuts a little metal out, it is not enough to weaken the cartridge. If you do not like the idea of using a drill bit, a tool like this will work:

Crimp Tool

My process, is to resize and decap all my clean, lubed up brass, then clean the brass again enough to remove the lube, then cut the crimp out. I do it in this order, because it is a PITA to try and hold lubed brass.

I can do about 25 cases a minute or more.

I do this with 9mm pistol brass, though I do not process all 9mm brass this way, only the crimped stuff that I find during reloading.

I live near Ft. Benning, GA, so there is plenty of military brass that shows up at the range.

Mark K

Edited June 13, 2012 by surfmaster

[sleepercaprice1]

I've used an old countersink bit for years. Put it in a drill press or in a hand drill and just touch the case to the running bit. The crimp is gone almost instantly. I deliberately use an old dull bit because it's not difficult to cut too much if you're not careful.

[Guest]

Also, a Weldon 90 degree deburring tool works great and is less then ten bones new - http://www.reidsupply.com/sku/WEL-DB-14/ - either this one or the next size up if you are also doing large primers.

I find the 600 to be pretty quick, especially with that little rubberband and string mod done to it to make it automatic. But, agreed -using a drill press or drill motor and some sort of a cutter is probably faster. The main feature I like about the 600 is the no-brainer mindless aspect and that it doesn't make chips so I can do it in the house while watching a show.

The main thing is to remove the crimp using whatever method works for you. Reloading and using crimped brass is not a good thing either during the reloading process or at the range. The most obvious hazard is the possibility of a primer detonation caused by forcing a primer into a crimped pocket. The less obvious but just as real hazard is using the ammmo. Years ago I loaded a bunch of .223 and intentionally didn't remove the crimp (not a great idea...) and found that I was getting several 2-3 round slam fires from every magazine. The primers weren't standing proud, but I think they might have been deformed or crushed a little which made them more sensitive. Using the same load, same case type, and same primers and just by removing the crimp the slamfires went away.

[Trident]

Received the Super Swage 600 and after 4000 cases couldn't be happier. Quick, easy, Do not have to sort by head stamp, worked perfect the first time, easy to operate, no drills, hop chips, no mess, no numbing fingers or holding onto cases (try holding 9mm cases to ream and deburr) why was I even considering the swaging, reaming and de-buring tools using the drills when for only $50.00 more this is simply so much better? Comes set up for .223 and includes 30 cal, 9mm, and 45 set ups as well.

Set up the string and spring mod (instead of the rubber band). This is defiantly the way to go.

Thanks for all you help!

[Guest]

Happy endings are always good to hear. Enjoy.

[392heminut]

considering the swaging, reaming and de-buring tools using the drills when for only $50.00 more this is simply so much better? Comes set up for .223 and includes 30 cal, 9mm, and 45 set ups as well.

It's a little more than $50 difference. The reamers I use cost $8.49 each, making the Dillon Swagger about $84 more. At any rate I'm glad the swagger is working good for you and if I already had the swagger I certainly wouldn't mess with reamers myself.

[Trident]

considering the swaging, reaming and de-buring tools using the drills when for only $50.00 more this is simply so much better? Comes set up for .223 and includes 30 cal, 9mm, and 45 set ups as well.

It's a little more than $50 difference. The reamers I use cost $8.49 each, making the Dillon Swagger about $84 more. At any rate I'm glad the swagger is working good for you and if I already had the swagger I certainly wouldn't mess with reamers myself.

It is worth double that ;'). The only thing that I would like is for Dillion to make the tool replace the primer seater and be able to use the press and case feeder to swage.

[pjb45]

I use the super swage on all my brass the first time. I also use a pocket reamer to smooth things out a little and a primer hole reamer. Some times the Super Swage will cause a little blockage of the primer hole. If you are not running hot loads this might not make a difference.

I took a short cut(s) on my first batch of reloads and learned the hard way. A piece of primer(?) came off and lodged under my trigger group at RM3G one year. So much for that rifle stage.

I sort my brass, I throw away the crappy Federal brass, keep to so-so Federal brass for practice and nothing but LC for match ammo.

I posted a pretty details thread on preparing my 223 brass which included using the Dillon trimmer.

I pretty much decided after I use up all my reloads I will either buy pre-processed once fired brass or buy cheap steel ammo. Hornady's price is actually pretty good. Same with Black Hills.

[Trident]

I use the super swage on all my brass the first time. I also use a pocket reamer to smooth things out a little and a primer hole reamer. Some times the Super Swage will cause a little blockage of the primer hole. If you are not running hot loads this might not make a difference.

I took a short cut(s) on my first batch of reloads and learned the hard way. A piece of primer(?) came off and lodged under my trigger group at RM3G one year. So much for that rifle stage.

I sort my brass, I throw away the crappy Federal brass, keep to so-so Federal brass for practice and nothing but LC for match ammo.

I posted a pretty details thread on preparing my 223 brass which included using the Dillon trimmer.

I pretty much decided after I use up all my reloads I will either buy pre-processed once fired brass or buy cheap steel ammo. Hornady's price is actually pretty good. Same with Black Hills.

Where is your post on case prep?

The cheapest I can find for prepped once fired is .19ea, at brass man.com, which would make my cost to load of .36 each since I can load for .17 and I can buy OEM at .33 and at highest .40 now with the prices going up again. Since I have just invested in the reloading stuff I'm going to do that for a while.

Do you want to sell your trimmer?

[angus6]

I'm with the guys below, started out with the RCBS unit, then picked up the Hornady then added a ss 600 to see what the hype was about, Still have the Hornady and dumped the Dillon and RCBS. Added a 1/40hp motor to it and used it untill I ended up with a 1050

I use the same method as you but I use the Hornady Primer Pocket Reamer, http://www.midwayusa.com/product/253550/hornady-primer-pocket-reamer-cutter-head-small .

I have a super swage, and have stopped using it. I cut the crimp out with a 7/32" drill bit and can do 3 times more brass per minute that way.I hold my cordless drill flat on the bench with a 3/32" bit installed, I pin the drill trigger back with a spring clip, and then touch the primer hole to the drill bit. The crimp is cut out in a split second. Any brass that does not have a crimp, or that you have previously cut has a larger surface area presented to the drill bit, and you can feel the greater resistance in a split second. You get the feel of it after just a few cartridges. Though this method cuts a little metal out, it is not enough to weaken the cartridge. If you do not like the idea of using a drill bit, a tool like this will work:Crimp ToolMy process, is to resize and decap all my clean, lubed up brass, then clean the brass again enough to remove the lube, then cut the crimp out. I do it in this order, because it is a PITA to try and hold lubed brass.I can do about 25 cases a minute or more.I do this with 9mm pistol brass, though I do not process all 9mm brass this way, only the crimped stuff that I find during reloading.I live near Ft. Benning, GA, so there is plenty of military brass that shows up at the range.Mark K

Edited June 26, 2012 by angus6