redbird1976

126mm STI tube plus Grams guts and tti 7mm base pad should get you 18 rounds of .40. This is my ccw setup.

Definitely keep a couple of slide stops in addition to the previously mentioned items.

I've done the conversion a couple of times. You'll need a complete. 40 upper which will run $700-800 depending on what parts and extra tools you'll have to buy. You'll need to thin the .45 ejector to be able it run the .40 slide on the .45 frame. You can also replace the ejector. If you like to tinker it's a fun project, but as others have said you'd likely be happier selling the .45 and buying the new 40.

The only things I can think of are: 1. The mainspring is binding a little on the hammer strut. 2. The pivot points on the trigger bar and or the trigger are dragging a little. I'd pull the mainspring and reinstall it. Make sure it's all the way into the plug. Check the hammer strut for a burr. If neither of those. Look and see if the trigger bar is dragging on the frame. Check and make sure it pivots freely on the trigger.

Did you re-lube all the contact points when you put it back together?

6.5 -6.7 grains of Longshot should get you where you want to be.

My recommendation is the Double Alpha holster. You can move a more vigorously without dumping the gun on the ground than some of the other designs. It is super smooth. It does take some fiddling to get it set right. You have to be patient with when you set it up. Make sure you loctite the set screws when you get it positiioned where you want it.

Red or Amber

I've used a modified CR Speed on the ELS mount with good success. My current set up is a Double Alpha Racemaster on the ELS mount. You will likely have to modify the holster to mate it to the ELS mount.

6.1 grains of Longshot with the 180's loaded to 1.125" should be a 172 or 173 power factor. I tried lower and my extreme spreads were too erratic. 6.1grns provided a consistent standard deviation and the added recoil was minimal.

+1 on the Dawson and drilling for the pin.

A smooth front strap with grip tape works wonders. Just make sure the grip tape runs just under the edge of the grips or it will want to curl up a little in the bend near the bottom of the grip frame.

I've never had an issue with it. I clean mine a couple times per year. 165gr .40 BBI's have worked great for me. I use a slow powder (Longshot) and have a fairly light taper crimp on them.

There's tab on the trigger bar that has to run across the firing pin safety in the slide. I guess if the sear resets before the bar crosses the FPB it would cause the malfunction you are talking about. I'd let somebody check it out to be sure.

How's the grip length compared to the P-07?

Check gear while "in-hole" shooter. Mental rehearsal while "on deck" shooter. LAMR, deep breath, exhale......BEEP......go to work!

The P-07 is a nice carry gun. The trigger isn't bad and it handles well. The texture on the grip frame is a little rough on my side in I wear it in an IWB holster with out an undershirt though.

BBI should be caught up.

I've used both of them. The basic difference between the two is that the BBI bullets are cast then coated, and the Precision bullets are swaged then coated. They both shoot good. You will probably need to clean a little more often than with jacketed bullets. I don't tend to worry about the moly building up since it acts as a lubricant. I don't have any experience with the 9mm in either brand, but I tend to like 165's in .40 so I stick with BBI.

@ Atlas, that makes sense.

I use Frog Lube, but I never had any problem with Slide Glide when I used it either. Is the round nose diving on the feed ramp? If it is, you may have an issue with the recoil buffer or the mag springs. I don't run mine with the buffer. It was causing the slide to short stroke.

Shay and I discussed lightening the slide on my TS when he did the grip reduction. He was of the opinion that the benefit on the TS was marginal. I left the slide alone. If the idea of lightening the slide is to increase to its velocity so the gun cycles faster, putting heavy recoil spring to take some of the snap out is probably counterproductive.

Before I removed any material, I'd get a set of calipers and measure your barrel that is already fitted and compare the dimensions to your new barrel. You should be able to determine fairly quickly where the material need to be removed and how much.

Mine broke in the same area, but I will say it was with 20,000+ rounds through the gun.

Yes, they will break on occasion. Mine broke at the 2011 Gator Classic. I think I just had a bad barrel. I had already sent to CZ USA for warranty work before it broke. I had the gun rebarreled with a spare barrel included.