BobS761 Posted June 7, 2012 Share Posted June 7, 2012 Last night I made a test run on some .40 SW. Home cast bullets, averaging 183 grains, WSF powder at 5.5 grains, and OAL of 1.127. I'm also using a Lee Factory Crimp die, set up to the mfg. instructions, but really I have no idea if it crimps or not. Side by side comparison with factory ammo, they look the same. Since I'm new at this, right now my goal is to make safe loads, and not minor PF. With that in mind, any comments? Last bit of info, shooting XDm 40 and XD 40 Tactical, bone stock. I just aquired a chrono and case guage as well. Thanks, B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SJ 40 Posted June 7, 2012 Share Posted June 7, 2012 Bob I shoot a very simular load ,180 gr.LTC over 5.5 grs. WSF at 1.133. Nice factory duplication load,that is accurate. I don't use the FCD but what I am looking to do is have my tapper crimp die remove the bell,straighten out the case mouth and measure .421-.420 when I am done. SJ 40 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RH45 Posted June 7, 2012 Share Posted June 7, 2012 FCD and lead isn't a great combination. If you have older brass, and it springs back a little, after going through the FCD, your bullet could be a little loose in the case, because lead won't spring back at all, which COULD result in setback, when the bullet hits the ramp. Enough setback WILL cause a kaboom. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kalaur Posted June 8, 2012 Share Posted June 8, 2012 +1 skip the lee factory crimp die with lead. All your crimp should be doing is removing the flare you put on the case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobS761 Posted June 8, 2012 Author Share Posted June 8, 2012 +1 skip the lee factory crimp die with lead. All your crimp should be doing is removing the flare you put on the case. Does the seating die remove the flare? We really are all about avoiding kabooms!!! Thanks, B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hi-Power Jack Posted June 8, 2012 Share Posted June 8, 2012 +1 skip the lee factory crimp die with lead. All your crimp should be doing is removing the flare you put on the case. Does the seating die remove the flare? We really are all about avoiding kabooms!!! Thanks, B I don't know what you're reloading on, but my Dillon Square Deal, with SD dies, doesn't remove the flare at the seating station - it has a 4th taper crimp station. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SJ 40 Posted June 8, 2012 Share Posted June 8, 2012 +1 skip the lee factory crimp die with lead. All your crimp should be doing is removing the flare you put on the case. Does the seating die remove the flare? We really are all about avoiding kabooms!!! Thanks, B If you are using a Lee die set your seating/crimping die when properly adjusted should give you a modified tapper crimp but again I am just trying to remove the flare on my finished ammunition. SJ 40 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobS761 Posted June 8, 2012 Author Share Posted June 8, 2012 I'm using the dreaded Lee Loadmaster. 1 Universal decapper, 2 sizing, 3 flow through powder and flaring, 4 seating, 5 factory crimp. I think I need to bone up on the seating die function before things begin in earnest. Thanks for all the input! B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hi-Power Jack Posted June 8, 2012 Share Posted June 8, 2012 I'm using the dreaded Lee Loadmaster. 1 Universal decapper, 2 sizing, 3 flow through powder and flaring, 4 seating, 5 factory crimp. I think I need to bone up on the seating die function before things begin in earnest. Thanks for all the input! B Bob, the seating die determines the depth the bullet is pushed into the cartridge case - the OAL. Very important function ... When you find a load recommendation, it is always x grains powder, x grains bullet at x OAL - if you change nothing but the OAL, you can affect the velocity/pressure/accuracy of the load. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobS761 Posted June 8, 2012 Author Share Posted June 8, 2012 I'm using the dreaded Lee Loadmaster. 1 Universal decapper, 2 sizing, 3 flow through powder and flaring, 4 seating, 5 factory crimp. I think I need to bone up on the seating die function before things begin in earnest. Thanks for all the input! B Bob, the seating die determines the depth the bullet is pushed into the cartridge case - the OAL. Very important function ... When you find a load recommendation, it is always x grains powder, x grains bullet at x OAL - if you change nothing but the OAL, you can affect the velocity/pressure/accuracy of the load. I am paying particular attention to OAL, checking powder drops, and such. We want to eventually make minor loads, but during the learning phase, I'm going to stick to published guidelines. Next batch, my plan is simply to pick a combination that has a lower velocity, and see how that works. My dad is scared to death we may have a squib, so he is very reluctant to drop below a minimum recommended charge. Again, good stuff! Thanks for helping the beginner! Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mda Posted June 9, 2012 Share Posted June 9, 2012 (edited) I am paying particular attention to OAL, checking powder drops, and such. We want to eventually make minor loads, but during the learning phase, I'm going to stick to published guidelines. Next batch, my plan is simply to pick a combination that has a lower velocity, and see how that works. My dad is scared to death we may have a squib, so he is very reluctant to drop below a minimum recommended charge. Again, good stuff! Thanks for helping the beginner! Bob Bob Reread the setup instruction for your seating die and follow the instructions. The bullet seating die also provides the crimp if setup correctly. Back out the knob which sets the bullet depth and set the die depth so it just removes the bell from the powder die. Be sure to tighten the locking ring. Then use the adjustable knob on the top of the die to set the bullet depth. You can check for potential setup back, or loose bullet in case, by taking a round and place the nose of the bullet against you reloading bench and push by hand. Bullet should not move if correct. With lead you can also have opposite problem with to much crimp and will result in poor accuracy. Check this by pulling a bullet from you loaded ammo and look where the case indented the lead bullet. You should only see a slight impression not a deep grove. Good luck with the load master. Used, fumbled, cussed, and broke parts for a few years before finally getting a Dillon. Difference was like night and day. Since you are starting at 5.5 of WST your load will probably be right at/below major PF and as always when developing load check with a chrono. MDA Edited June 9, 2012 by mda Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hi-Power Jack Posted June 9, 2012 Share Posted June 9, 2012 Last night I made a test run on some .40 SW. Home cast bullets, averaging 183 grains, WSF powder at 5.5 grains, and OAL of 1.127. I'm also using a Lee Factory Crimp die, set up to the mfg. instructions, but really I have no idea if it crimps or not. Since I'm new at this, right now my goal is to make safe loads, and not minor PF . Bob, if you're new to reloading, my personal opinion is that I'd start out making .40 minor loads rather than .40 major loads. (That's what I did when I started loading 9mm major - I started out with pf 145, and worked up slowly to 160 - stayed there for awhile before I ventured into PF 170 - 175 country). You have to get the OAL, the crimp, powder charges/velocities all just right before you venture into Major country. Learn how to use the powder scale and the chrono, etc. Your father is concerned about a squib load from too low a pf, But, I'd be a lot more concerned about a setback on a Major load. Take your time, load up some 140 - 150 pf loads - take a little off the powder - and shoot a few hundred of them before you try to load them to major. Just my humble opinion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SJ 40 Posted June 9, 2012 Share Posted June 9, 2012 Last night I made a test run on some .40 SW. Home cast bullets, averaging 183 grains, WSF powder at 5.5 grains, and OAL of 1.127. I'm also using a Lee Factory Crimp die, set up to the mfg. instructions, but really I have no idea if it crimps or not. Since I'm new at this, right now my goal is to make safe loads, and not minor PF . Bob, if you're new to reloading, my personal opinion is that I'd start out making .40 minor loads rather than .40 major loads. (That's what I did when I started loading 9mm major - I started out with pf 145, and worked up slowly to 160 - stayed there for awhile before I ventured into PF 170 - 175 country). You have to get the OAL, the crimp, powder charges/velocities all just right before you venture into Major country. Learn how to use the powder scale and the chrono, etc. Your father is concerned about a squib load from too low a pf, But, I'd be a lot more concerned about a setback on a Major load. Take your time, load up some 140 - 150 pf loads - take a little off the powder - and shoot a few hundred of them before you try to load them to major. Just my humble opinion. As Jack mentions that in my guns is a major load and my personal maximum for that bullet and powder.It chronos out of a 4 1/2" barrel at 963 FPS,avg.,I started out working it up at 4.5 grs. Just be safe and sane. SJ 40 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peasant Posted June 13, 2012 Share Posted June 13, 2012 As most said...Start slow...and work your way up with caution...Good Luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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