If I have a squib

[BobS761]

I know, another noob question. But never seen one or had one. Can it be cleared at the range or does it require a gunsmith? Is there a tool one should have, like a brass drift?

Thanks,

B

[Skydiver]

A lot of people recommend this: http://www.arredondo...l4901oabhy&gid=

I just went to my hobby store and picked up some aluminum dowels.

Most RO's prefer that the squib be dealt with at the stage unless it really takes a long time.

A good RO will notice that you fired a squib or suspects that you fired one, and tell you to stop immediately. They will then use either a squib rod, pen, or a zip tie. With the zip tie, it is inserted through the chamber to check for an obstruction. With a squib rod or pen, it is inserted into the muzzle. The reason why the rod above is recommended is because you as the competitor can insert it yourself without sweeping yourself and getting DQ'd. The zip tie also makes for a good way to check for squib without sweeping yourself.

Edited May 5, 2012 by Skydiver

[HoMiE]

It can be cleared at range with squib rod tool or wood dowel, be careful you don't snap wood though.

[Chills1994]

what is that Arredondo squib rod made out of?

how are you supposed to use it?

can you beat on it with a hammer?

[Tim/GA]

First thing- STOP!! and don't wait for someone else to stop you. Granted if there is no squib and you stop yourself your stage is done, if an RO stops you and there is nothing in the barrel you get a reshoot (at least in USPSA). If there is a squib your stage is done either way.

Depends on the squib. The Arredondo one is a polymer that will not take a good hit with a hammer (at least for me- had to buy a friend a new one). Squibs come in different flavors, there is the primer pop that sets the bullet about an inch or less into barrel and can be tapped out easily enough with any rod. This one can even be done on the stage quite often. Usually comes from no powder in the case but not always. Had one at the 2011 SC sectional that popped and when racked the slide ended up with powder all over my hands and arms. Primer fired, plenty of powder but the two did not get together.

Then there is the under power POP. Usually an partial charge for some reason. These vary as to how hard to remove but most likely going to need more than a polymer rod.

Last one was one I had awhile back- pop, sizzle. No idea what happened here but it stuck the bullet about 4" up the barrel of my Glock 35. That one was the one I had to buy a new squib rod when it snapped. Ended up needing some good penetrating oil and a steel rod from the hardware store, wrapped in duct tape, a hammer and a wood block with a hole drilled in it. That is what is in my range bag now.

[lumpygravy]

I like and have a 40 cal brass rod and because I only shoot 40 and 45, it is all I need or carry in my range bag.

If I shot 9mm or 38whatever, I'd have most of the length turned down leaving it 40 cal on one end.

[bierman]

I've had two, first in my M&P 9mm. Think it was a primer only as the bullet only made it about an inch past the chamber and the slide did not cycle enough to chamber another round. Had to use a wood dowel and a hammer to get it out. Luckily, I knew right away what was up as the shot was more of a pop and fizzle instead of a bang. Second was with my Model 65. Same issue, no powder in the case. Bullet lodged between the cylinder and forcing cone and locked up the gun. Again, needed a dowel and a hammer. Neither needed a gunsmith and I was able to clear them both at the range. Neither occurred during a match, thankfully.

[Round_Gun_Shooter]

I prefer THESE As many say, buy once cry once

Edit to add:

I carry a HAMMER too

Edited May 5, 2012 by Round_Gun_Shooter

[Chills1994]

I had a round of factory ammunition go "pop!" at a match recently. It didn't cycle the slide enough, and the hammer was at half-cock.

I racked the slide and locked it back, dropped the magazine. then somebody from behind me reached in front of me and stuck a ball point pen in the barrel. I saw the pointey end of the pen come out the breech indicating no squib.

the RO was still standing there with timer.

could I have just reinserted a mag, and shot the few remaining targets left, and finished the stage?

as it was, I stopped, cleared everything, holstered and got dinged with two FTE's, and three mikes.

otherwise, I would have had an alright match.

[Bob DuBois]

Saving the gun is way cheaper than trashing the stage. Indoor last Tuesday night, RO haden't seen a squib before. I was away from the line and a new reloader chambered a round after a squib and trashed the barrel. It was a Glock 22 and it's easy to fit a new barrel but he and others gained vauable experience on what to do when it happens.

When in doubt STOP and find out why somethings not right.

[TonyT]

i purchased some round brass mill stock and made myself some squibb rods in 9mm, 40 and 45 with very close for to the bore. I would never use a wood dowel - too much risk of a broken piece of wood.

[Braxton1]

I had a round of factory ammunition go "pop!" at a match recently. It didn't cycle the slide enough, and the hammer was at half-cock.

I racked the slide and locked it back, dropped the magazine. then somebody from behind me reached in front of me and stuck a ball point pen in the barrel. I saw the pointey end of the pen come out the breech indicating no squib.

the RO was still standing there with timer.

could I have just reinserted a mag, and shot the few remaining targets left, and finished the stage?

as it was, I stopped, cleared everything, holstered and got dinged with two FTE's, and three mikes.

otherwise, I would have had an alright match.

Although Mr. R.O. didn't "stop" you, per se, someone reaching around you to put a pen through your barrel is effectively "a stop". If it wasn't, then the R.O. should've never let another person near that gun until the UASC command was given and complied with as much as possible. I would've argued for a reshoot pretty assertively.

Now had you unloaded, locked the slide back to the rear, and held the gun up to the light to see if light would shine through the bore, you would've been free to reload and continue.

All-in-all, I think that the R.O. should've been a little more assertive is saying "Stop!".

<Thread Drift OFF>. I make squib rods out of appropriately sized metal doweling (5/16" for 9/38; 3/8" for 40; 7/16 for 45). They fit the bore correctly and the ends are radiused to avoid scratching the bore. They're steel, so they don't instantly mushroom like the brass ones and they'll take a beating well.

Edited May 9, 2012 by Braxton1

[master3laster]

I was stopped just recently after a squib. He knew what it was before I did. Pulled trigger, went click. Said "STOP", showed clear and a spent casing came flying out. Before I knew it, they had the gun apart and a rod down its throat.

I can see how dangerous these are. Being somewhat new, I probably would have racked a new round into it thinking it was a misfire.

I really appreciate the knowledgeable RO's. The speed of the game can cause me to be fuzzy at times.

[Skydiver]

I was stopped just recently after a squib. He knew what it was before I did. Pulled trigger, went click. Said "STOP", showed clear and a spent casing came flying out. Before I knew it, they had the gun apart and a rod down its throat.

I can see how dangerous these are. Being somewhat new, I probably would have racked a new round into it thinking it was a misfire.

I really appreciate the knowledgeable RO's. The speed of the game can cause me to be fuzzy at times.

And it's that same speed that draws many of us into it... After a while, on your fastest and best runs, things feel like they are all happening in slow motion because you are observing the shooting rather than doing the shooting. More on that in Brian's book.

Anyway, I'm glad you are safe and that you've got a good crew of people around you!