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Glock 24 FTF issues


ozdogg5

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That jam looks like the slide is not getting full travel. Something is likely slowing the slide or limiting it's travel. Here are some thoughts...

It sounds like you have a good set of calipers? See if you OAL is staying consistent when pressed...

- Measure a rounds OAL, then press the round into a bench with your thumb, with good pressure. Then measure the found again to see if it shortened.

Also:

- What recoil rod and spring are currently in the gun? You may be experiencing some of the old recoil spring bind.

- How about your slide stop/release? Pull it out and re-install in, making sure to do it with the spring/pins in proper order.

- Get your thumbs off the slide while you shoot.

I just measured the rounds after pushing them against my bench and they don't get any shorter.

At the time, I started with a ss rod and 14lb spring then changed to the factory rod/spring thinking it would possibly fix it - neither worked.

I swapped the trigger housing with a newer one from a G35 to see if changing the ejector would do anything. I'm certain that I reassembled correctly as everything was in the right place when I broke it down for cleaning at home.

My buddy experienced that same problem with 'thumb-riding' so I was very cautious of thumb placement.

Any other ideas? Definitely appreciate the input!

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Do you have a magwell on there? If so, make sure it is not overly tight which can deform the grip a little.

Are you using stock mag springs with the Dawson followers? Have you tried normal factory mags?

I do have a magwell. Which screw are you talking about - the one on the backstrap or the small bottom hex screw? I never heard of it deforming grips, what is the result of this? I would assume mag related issues?

The extended mag spring are rather new (less than 1,000 rounds thru them). Which ones are the Dawson followers? I am using the #6 followers which are practically brand new, along with the mags. I haven't tried stock mags yet. I will bring some today and let you know how it goes. Thanks!

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- Get your thumbs off the slide while you shoot.

I was just wondering, think it's possible that I don't have enough of a powder charge to cycle the slide? I'm running 4.3 grains of Titegroup behind 180gr Rainier plated HP.

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That should be plenty. I've run a similar same load with Zero 180g JHP's. In fact, I've run a minor version of that with just 3.5g of TG.

I was going to come back and suggest the magwell screw too...but, I was too slow. Just take the magwell off for now and see if it will run.

- The slide lock/release... It can be put in wrong and cause failures. Do you have a model with two pins in the locking block? (which means a 3 pin Glock) There will be the trigger pin and and extra pin right above it. You have to put the upper pin in first, then the slide stop release (which will be held in by the trigger pin). the spring on the slide stop/release needs to rest on the extra locking block pin.

- Your spring and guide for the extractor could be off as well.

- How smoothly does the slide cycle by hand, when empty? Looking down through the ejection port, how far back does the slide travel? (you should be able to see an amount of your trigger bar)

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That should be plenty. I've run a similar same load with Zero 180g JHP's. In fact, I've run a minor version of that with just 3.5g of TG.

I was going to come back and suggest the magwell screw too...but, I was too slow. Just take the magwell off for now and see if it will run.

- The slide lock/release... It can be put in wrong and cause failures. Do you have a model with two pins in the locking block? (which means a 3 pin Glock) There will be the trigger pin and and extra pin right above it. You have to put the upper pin in first, then the slide stop release (which will be held in by the trigger pin). the spring on the slide stop/release needs to rest on the extra locking block pin.

- Your spring and guide for the extractor could be off as well.

- How smoothly does the slide cycle by hand, when empty? Looking down through the ejection port, how far back does the slide travel? (you should be able to see an amount of your trigger bar)

So which magwell screw is problematic and to what degree of functioning will it affect if it is on too tight? I will just take it off today and see how it performs without.

I have the three pin (two in the locking bolt) model. As mentioned, I am quite certain that it was reinstalled correctly because it was in the right place when I took it apart to clean it after shooting.

Which spring are you talking about? I replaced the entire trigger housing with a known good one from a G35 so I am assuming the extractor has been ruled out.

I'll be heading to the range in a couple of hours so any pointers or tips would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again!

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So which magwell screw is problematic and to what degree of functioning will it affect if it is on too tight? I will just take it off today and see how it performs without.

I have not fidgeted with one in awhile, but its the screw that tightens the magwell against the frame of the gun (he backstrap to the magwell plug).

More than a few people have cranked it down so hard they have weird feeding issues (I am guilty of this too). The tension can cause the grip of the gun to deform somewhat which alters the feed path of the bullet. It is not really visible to the naked eye.

I would try no magwell, and stock mags with your loads. The magwell is easy to put back on at the range, as well as the dawson basepads / extended springs.

Good luck!

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Which spring are you talking about? I replaced the entire trigger housing with a known good one from a G35 so I am assuming the extractor has been ruled out.

The extractor is not in the trigger housing. That is the ejector.

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How are the frame rails? Are they all four intact? There were some frames in the past that had issues with rails shearing off. Glock recalled and replaced those frames. This occurred around the ETL### serial number range.

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How are the frame rails? Are they all four intact? There were some frames in the past that had issues with rails shearing off. Glock recalled and replaced those frames. This occurred around the ETL### serial number range.

The rails look unaltered and as should in comparison with my other 10 Glocks! lol

I'm actually going to check the serial number on my 24 (because I believe the slide is from an older model) to see if this fits in the problematic group. Thanks for the heads up!

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TRNBrad

Hmm, that's interesting. My buddy runs TRN Rainiers in his all day long without a hiccup. Interesting how bullet profiles can be so inconsistent from one firearm to the next.

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Any luck?

So, here's the update...

1) I took out the extractor and let it soak in Hoppes overnight and scrubbed the heck out of it the next day. I also replaced the extractor rod and spring.

2) Polished feed ramp with Flitz

3) Tightened crimp almost a full turn down on the die

I brought 3 batches of my loads, most of which were between 1.12 and 1.135. I took it out to the range with the SL barrel, SS rod and 14# spring to see if it would run. If it didn't I was going to swap back to complete factory parts....fortunately, I didn't have to!!!

It ate all 300 rounds of varying lengths without a hiccup! I'm sure the fellas in the next lanes over were looking at me pretty crazy because I was shooting with pretty fast succession. I was definitely punching the bullseye out, which I've NEVER been able to do with this gun since it has spent most of it's life in my safe due to the consistent malfunctions. CAN'T WAIT TO TAKE IT TO THE MATCH TOMORROW!!!! Once I get back from the match tomorrow, I'll let y'all know how it performed.

Thanks for all of the great advice and input!

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So which magwell screw is problematic and to what degree of functioning will it affect if it is on too tight? I will just take it off today and see how it performs without.

I have not fidgeted with one in awhile, but its the screw that tightens the magwell against the frame of the gun (he backstrap to the magwell plug).

More than a few people have cranked it down so hard they have weird feeding issues (I am guilty of this too). The tension can cause the grip of the gun to deform somewhat which alters the feed path of the bullet. It is not really visible to the naked eye.

I would try no magwell, and stock mags with your loads. The magwell is easy to put back on at the range, as well as the dawson basepads / extended springs.

Good luck!

Thanks for this! I don't believe that this was the culprit since I didn't mess with the mag well until after the range session but, when I did get home and was dry firing, I noticed that the mags would not drop smoothly. Turns out, the mag well screw on the back strap WAS too tight and was not allowing the mags to drop properly. Loosened it up and they now slip out like butter!

MUCH THANKS!!!

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So, I took it to the match today and all was well during the first 4 stages (aside from operator assisted malfunctions!). It was an unusually low round count match with only 108 rounds. On each of the first three stages which didn't require a reload, I used different mags to see if there would be any issues with one in particular - all was well and it shot everything.

The fourth stage did require a reload and since I wasn't smart enough to do any real dry fire practice with this setup, I didn't seat the mag all the way and it dropped. Threw it back in the gun and it shot the next 18 rounds flawlessly.

The last two stages killed me. El strong and weak prez - first string after reload with strong hand, FTF. Second string, FTF during freestyle, none on weak hand. I was actually doing quite well on the classifier until I got the FTF...that's when my game went out the window and the poor no shoot had to suffer.

Last stage, FTF with the first mag on the Texas star, reloaded once with no FTFs, reloaded again with 2 more FTFs.

Not only did the FTFs come back but on two occasions, the gun fired, went back in to battery but the case failed to eject (casing remained completely in chamber).

I have no idea what the heck is going on with this gun. On Monday I put 300 rounds through it without any issues and now it's back at it again. Same ole hang-up FTFs. I was actually having a pretty fun day but, after each FTF, my attitude dropped and I almost packed up and left.

Any ideas? I'm getting so frustrated with it, I'm tempted to just put it back in my safe for a while and start shooting the G35...or go back to production.

I'll try and put a couple of the vids up so y'all can get a better view of the FTF's...I just want to shoot!

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First, if you haven't already, try factory ammo to determine if its the ammo or gun.

Would it serve the same purpose to shoot my reloads through another Glock (practically new in stock configuration) to see if the gripe follows? If FTFs continue, it would be safe to say that it's my reloads. I am planning on doing this at the next match.

Any other recommendations?

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Id go with trying factory ammo in your gun. If its still a problem, I'd verify that you have the correct extractor, and spring loaded bearing installed. Also, yoy should verify the firing pin block is properly installed. If you dont already have one, get ahold of a Glock armorers manual, (google search) and verify proper assembly.

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Ok, I'll have to pick up some factory ammo. I believe I do have an armorers manual, just have to find it. Where exactly is the Irving pin block and what am I checking for? Would that cause the issues that I'm having.

Thanks again!

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Ok, I'll have to pick up some factory ammo. I believe I do have an armorers manual, just have to find it. Where exactly is the Irving pin block and what am I checking for? Would that cause the issues that I'm having.

Thanks again!

The firing pin block is on the bottom of the slide to the rear of the breech. Besides blocking the stiker when the trigger is released or gun out of battery, it retains the extractor in the slide, and along with the spring loaded bearing, helps provide correct extractor tension. If the previous owner took it out to try to achieve a lighter trigger pull, that could be your problem. You may also have the wrong extractor, or spring loaded bearing. There are 4 different types of extractors for small frame glocks, and 3 different spring loaded bearings. Each type is caliber and/or generation specific. All these parts would have been correct when the gun left the glock factory, but you got the gun second hand. Still, the most basic thing to try is factory ammo. This will let you know if the gun has an issue, or your reloads are the problem, then you can focus your attention in the right direction.

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After you mentioned the striker block safety, I took a closer look at it and it looks like the spring was cut. I put it next to a new reduced strength striker spring and it was only 2/3 the size and slightly bent. I went ahead and replaced it with the new one since it looked suspicious. What gripes would be specific to a weak or bad striker block safety spring?

I did some research and found that I do have the correct extractor and bearing. Could it be possible that they are now worn and out of spec? I've also got some factory ammo to see if it's possibly my reloads causing the gripe.

I'll be taking it out to do some test firing tomorrow so if you have any more input, I'd definitely appreciate it. Otherwise, I'll follow up and let y'all know how it shot (or didn't).

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