jnikoley

Rifle is a Rem 700P with HS precision Pro 2000 stock. My intent is to bed the action to relieve stress on the reciever when properly torqued.

Has anyone had any experience with "accu risers" from ernie the gunsmith? Im going to do my first bedding job, and in my research, came accross them. The concept seems sound, any thoughts?

If you are using your thumb, you're doin it wrong. Also, it is IMPOSSIBLE for the bolt on my benelli to go forward with a round on the lift gate and fingers above the round. The lift gate has to raise to allow the bolt forward. I have seen people bang up their thumb putting a round in the chamber, thumb behind the round, and hitting the carrier release.

No modification necessary. My button fell off. Replaced the carrier release with a new one. Opted to stick with the standard button. Pushing the shell down pushes the carrier release out at the back and in at the front. The bolt cant close as long as you have your finger above the round. Once you remove your finger, the bolt should close, but sometimes you have to tap up on the carrier from below, or simply shouldering the gun will also provide the necessary jarring to close the carrier if it stays open.

I use a tru glo "tom knapp" extra large/long green fiber optic. Found it at cabelas. Its the brightest fiber optic I have seen, and the largest. With the right ammo/choke, slugs group 2-3" at 50 yds. Far more important than your sight is to find the slug/choke combination that works best in your gun, and to know your holdover.

The firing pin block is on the bottom of the slide to the rear of the breech. Besides blocking the stiker when the trigger is released or gun out of battery, it retains the extractor in the slide, and along with the spring loaded bearing, helps provide correct extractor tension. If the previous owner took it out to try to achieve a lighter trigger pull, that could be your problem. You may also have the wrong extractor, or spring loaded bearing. There are 4 different types of extractors for small frame glocks, and 3 different spring loaded bearings. Each type is caliber and/or generation specific. All these parts would have been correct when the gun left the glock factory, but you got the gun second hand. Still, the most basic thing to try is factory ammo. This will let you know if the gun has an issue, or your reloads are the problem, then you can focus your attention in the right direction.

Id go with trying factory ammo in your gun. If its still a problem, I'd verify that you have the correct extractor, and spring loaded bearing installed. Also, yoy should verify the firing pin block is properly installed. If you dont already have one, get ahold of a Glock armorers manual, (google search) and verify proper assembly.

Not at all worried about parralax. A decent cheek weld will solve the worst parallax. Im more concerned with how well the cmore will hold zero, and of the ruggedness of the railway mount to hold zero. Accuracy wise I wouldn't expect better than 2.5-3.5 MOA with any red dot, unmagnified.. I'll have to see how well the cmore does at the test range when the new dot arrives.

Think I'll try a 2 MOA. Anyone try running a magnifier behind a CMORE?

About the AR Gold, I have one, and highly recommend it. My safety moves smoothly and easily, though the installation instructions warn that some safties wont work well with it. I've tried mine with a RRA extended, and standard mil spec both with good results. I would caution though, that in order to install an AR gold, the upper reciever must have an auto sear relief cut. I found this out after trying to install it in a rifle with a JP CTR-02 upper. I had to modify the upper in order to get the upper and lower receiver to mate with the AR Gold in.

I have a light weight 16" upper with a cmore red dot I use for the local 3gun matches. None of the distances are beyond 25 yards, so I use a 12 MOA dot. What would be the best size dot to use if I wanted to also use it on occasion as a limited gun in other 3 gun matches with about half the targets at 50-100, half from 3-50, and occassional targets from 200-450? The rifle shoots about 1.5 MOA. Also, does changing the dot module on a cmore change the zero? Thanks.

Tested and works. Agree with #6 screw. I used an 8-32, and it seems to allow some gas to flow in the full closed position. No biggie, though. I used red loctite to secure mine, however, I could probably have gotten by without it. I used a standard tap, and the threads were cut shallow, making for a snug fit for the set screw.

First, if you haven't already, try factory ammo to determine if its the ammo or gun.

I went ahead and did it on a RRA low profile gas block. The mod was easy to do, and cost $8 for the tap, wrench, and set-screw. I'll test it tomorrow.

Im thinking of attempting to convert a mil spec A2 front sight / gas block on an AR-15 to an adjustable gas system. I want to do so by modifying the gas block, not replacing it. My plan is to drill / tap a hole between the gas port and gas tube on the right side of the A2 gas block, and install a set screw. Can anyone advise if this is doable? My concern is that there may not be enough metal in the stock gas block to tap enough threads to securely hold in the set screw.