jnikoley

Rifle is a Rem 700P with HS precision Pro 2000 stock. My intent is to bed the action to relieve stress on the reciever when properly torqued.

Has anyone had any experience with "accu risers" from ernie the gunsmith? Im going to do my first bedding job, and in my research, came accross them. The concept seems sound, any thoughts?

If you are using your thumb, you're doin it wrong. Also, it is IMPOSSIBLE for the bolt on my benelli to go forward with a round on the lift gate and fingers above the round. The lift gate has to raise to allow the bolt forward. I have seen people bang up their thumb putting a round in the chamber, thumb behind the round, and hitting the carrier release.

No modification necessary. My button fell off. Replaced the carrier release with a new one. Opted to stick with the standard button. Pushing the shell down pushes the carrier release out at the back and in at the front. The bolt cant close as long as you have your finger above the round. Once you remove your finger, the bolt should close, but sometimes you have to tap up on the carrier from below, or simply shouldering the gun will also provide the necessary jarring to close the carrier if it stays open.

I use a tru glo "tom knapp" extra large/long green fiber optic. Found it at cabelas. Its the brightest fiber optic I have seen, and the largest. With the right ammo/choke, slugs group 2-3" at 50 yds. Far more important than your sight is to find the slug/choke combination that works best in your gun, and to know your holdover.

The firing pin block is on the bottom of the slide to the rear of the breech. Besides blocking the stiker when the trigger is released or gun out of battery, it retains the extractor in the slide, and along with the spring loaded bearing, helps provide correct extractor tension. If the previous owner took it out to try to achieve a lighter trigger pull, that could be your problem. You may also have the wrong extractor, or spring loaded bearing. There are 4 different types of extractors for small frame glocks, and 3 different spring loaded bearings. Each type is caliber and/or generation specific. All these parts would have been correct when the gun left the glock factory, but you got the gun second hand. Still, the most basic thing to try is factory ammo. This will let you know if the gun has an issue, or your reloads are the problem, then you can focus your attention in the right direction.

Id go with trying factory ammo in your gun. If its still a problem, I'd verify that you have the correct extractor, and spring loaded bearing installed. Also, yoy should verify the firing pin block is properly installed. If you dont already have one, get ahold of a Glock armorers manual, (google search) and verify proper assembly.

Not at all worried about parralax. A decent cheek weld will solve the worst parallax. Im more concerned with how well the cmore will hold zero, and of the ruggedness of the railway mount to hold zero. Accuracy wise I wouldn't expect better than 2.5-3.5 MOA with any red dot, unmagnified.. I'll have to see how well the cmore does at the test range when the new dot arrives.

Think I'll try a 2 MOA. Anyone try running a magnifier behind a CMORE?

About the AR Gold, I have one, and highly recommend it. My safety moves smoothly and easily, though the installation instructions warn that some safties wont work well with it. I've tried mine with a RRA extended, and standard mil spec both with good results. I would caution though, that in order to install an AR gold, the upper reciever must have an auto sear relief cut. I found this out after trying to install it in a rifle with a JP CTR-02 upper. I had to modify the upper in order to get the upper and lower receiver to mate with the AR Gold in.

I have a light weight 16" upper with a cmore red dot I use for the local 3gun matches. None of the distances are beyond 25 yards, so I use a 12 MOA dot. What would be the best size dot to use if I wanted to also use it on occasion as a limited gun in other 3 gun matches with about half the targets at 50-100, half from 3-50, and occassional targets from 200-450? The rifle shoots about 1.5 MOA. Also, does changing the dot module on a cmore change the zero? Thanks.

Tested and works. Agree with #6 screw. I used an 8-32, and it seems to allow some gas to flow in the full closed position. No biggie, though. I used red loctite to secure mine, however, I could probably have gotten by without it. I used a standard tap, and the threads were cut shallow, making for a snug fit for the set screw.

First, if you haven't already, try factory ammo to determine if its the ammo or gun.

I went ahead and did it on a RRA low profile gas block. The mod was easy to do, and cost $8 for the tap, wrench, and set-screw. I'll test it tomorrow.

Im thinking of attempting to convert a mil spec A2 front sight / gas block on an AR-15 to an adjustable gas system. I want to do so by modifying the gas block, not replacing it. My plan is to drill / tap a hole between the gas port and gas tube on the right side of the A2 gas block, and install a set screw. Can anyone advise if this is doable? My concern is that there may not be enough metal in the stock gas block to tap enough threads to securely hold in the set screw.

All three of the .40 mags I use are easily reloadable with 21 rounds in the mags. The setup is a Rescomp tube, Grams follower and spring, and a Dawson Base Pad. A Dawson SNL base pad helps so that it is a little easier to seat a 21 round mag with the slide forward. I did have to modify my slide stop so that the gun does not lock back with 1 or 2 rounds remaining in the mag using the Grams follower. The procedure to modify the slide stop was outlined on the Brazos website. Yes you can modify the follower, but then you are modifying three (one per mag) parts instead of one. My gun is set up to lock back when the mag is empty.... I can't count that good... I love the Rescomp tubes. You wont have to mess with them or tune them, although they are soft, and more prone to corrosion than SS mag bodies, so I wipe down the exterior of the mag tubes with an oiled cloth after each use. I also recommend changing the mag springs at least once a year. I do not recommend the rescomp tubes in a STI aluminum grip, though. They will not fit. I found out the hard way, and had to extensively modify my aluminum grip for them to work. No problem at all with the polymer grip, though.

Exactly what I did in Limited for my first 100% score.

What follows is what I see as the only issues I could find in the IDPA DMG rule book, one of which (point 2), has already been addressed: -Point 1: In the list of excluded modifications in every division for item 4 it includes "Recoil reducing devices". All of the "compensators" we use in other 3 gun disciplines are by definition: "A muzzle brake used to counter the recoil of a firearm, or to prevent the muzzle from climbing due to kickback" -Wikipedia definition of "compensator". Sounds like a "Recoil reducing device" to me. Almost every manufacturer of the current "compensators" on the market are described by their manufacturers as "muzzle brakes" or "...greatly reduce recoil and muzzle rise.." -Excerpt for the description of Surefire MB556K, from Surefire.com. Also, aren't soft rubber "recoil eliminator, (etc.)" butt pads on shotguns, and most rifles, also not "recoil reducing devices". I really don't think IDPA HQ meant to exclude just about every rifle and shotgun in use in all the other 3-gun disciplines by the exclusion of "recoil reducing devices". However, I can assure you, some MD somewhere will require us to use a bare muzzle, or at best, an A2 flash hider/compensator (by his definition - compensator: no baffles, so not a compensator/muzzle brake, but a compensator/flash hider). Of course, no rubber butt pads on rifles or shotguns either at that MD's matches. Perhaps a changing of the wording "Recoil reducing devices", or a more specific list of what is allowed, to include Glossary definitions, can prevent that scenario from ever becoming a reality. Point 2: As others have stated before, the extended magazine tube (past the muzzle) restriction for shotguns has got to go. I see no competitive advantage for having a gun unnecessarily longer than it needs to be. The only thing this rule does is to exclude shooters that have equipment ready to go for other 3-gun disciplines. We have the division capacity limit for the shotguns, that alone should suffice. Point 3: There are all types of ways to "game" the rifle stages as the current book is written. Rifles need to have a division capacity stipulated, just as the pistols and shotguns do. As an example.. Since you are required to perform a mandatory reload (of an un-specified type) on any stage where more than 15 rounds are fired, I would simply load my first magazine to 15 rounds, which is cinched to another 15 round magazine. For a 16+ round stage: shoot 15 to bolt open, quick "emergency" load with cinched mags, win the stage, and set up a table after the match to sell everyone else "magazine coupling devices". Either the removal of the mandatory reload, or the dis-allowance for magazine coupling devices, and/or the inclusion of a rifle Division Capacity stipulation would prevent that scenario. Other than the above three things, I can live with the rest of the IDPA DMG rules. I think that they are fine.

In your pictures, it appears the disconnector is below the sear legs in the "disconnected" position, when it should be up higher and connected to the sear (with hammer cocked and trigger forward). If thats the case, you may not have enough pre travel in the trigger (its back too far), or not enough spring tension on the middle (disconnector) leg of your sear spring. It could also be the result of wear between the tri glide trigger "bearing" and the flat side of the disconnector that faces the trigger bow. The resulting wear can create a detent in the disconnector, and thereby not allowing it to reconnect to the sear. I only mention this cause it happened to me in that exact way. Still.. I'm honestly confused as to how you could even drop the hammer if any of those things were the case, but it might be worth checking. Edit: Looking at it again, the disconnector does appear to be properly connected to the sear. I'm at a loss..

That would work, but I would rather keep the one I have. Thanks.

Thanks, do you know the exact weight of the aluminum rod by any chance? I need a precise measurement in grams for comparison. If it's significantly lighter than the STI recoil master, it will solve my problem.

With the aluma grips I added, it's exactly 42.0 ozs without the grip tape. The grip tape adds 3 grams putting it over weight. I bought the same scale you have and it measures a little heavier than your scale, so scale error is a factor too.

I'm interested in reducing the weight of my gun by a few grams to make weight. I am considering replacing a standard Government bushing with a Commander bushing to make weight. My question is... Is a commander length bushing that is installed in a government slide going to have a negative effect on accuracy, or is it a non-factor? Thanks.

Thought about taking material off the inside of the (aluma) grips on the frame side, where you wont see it. Probably easier, but would like to leave them alone. Probably a better option though, allowing me to take off extra weight and have some room for scale variations....

Another option: Use a drill bit to enlarge the guide rod plug diameter, but how many thousands oversized can I go and still expect the plug/rod to function as intended?