High Primers in brass prepped from a 1050 (loaded on a 650)

[sasquatch981]

Hi Guys,

I am still seeming to have some issues with the brass prep of the 1050. I am not sure but I think it is still related to the swage process.

When I load the “prepped” brass from the 1050, I am getting high primers. Please note that the prep is done on the 1050, and the loading is done on the 650. Brass is mixed headstamp once fired. Here are some photos of the high primers.

Could this be an issue with the swage not being “enough”. In the last post I made needing help I took all the advice, and adjusted the swage rod so there is pressure on the “over-cam” on the last 1-inch or so on the down-stroke actually maybe a little more since I have the handle adjusted to the shortest position.

It makes me nervous on the down-stroke, because it seems like there is a lot of force being put into the overcam action, and I feel like I am going to break something (like the shell plate). I realize the 1050 is much more stout than a 650, am I just being nervous because when you prime on the 650 it’s a “feel” thing (same type of action with the rod raising the primer) and the swage process of the 1050 is not?

All advice is appreciated.

[Merlin Orr]

It would be interesting to look at some brass deprimed on the 650 and take measurements as to the depth of the primer pocket on the 1050 vs 650 prepped brass.....

Edited March 16, 2012 by Merlin Orr

[Braxton1]

Are you priming on the 1050? Those high primers look too consistently-high to be from a 650....

If so, have you checked the adjustment on the pushrod that activates the primer punch on the 1050? It is located on the right side of the toolhead at about the 4 o'clock position.

Those pushrods are not adjusted from the factory and will be different on every toolhead that you own.

As far as setting up the backup rod and swager in the 1050, I've found that the easiest way to do it is to use a Dremel and a cut-off wheel. Take out a pie shaped chunk out of the base of the brass and expose the primer pocket where you can see what's happening. The modified case will look like the one in Dillon's Instruction Manual for the 1050.

[RiggerJJ]

As Braxton says, the primer seating punch is adjustable on the 1050. Look down on the tool head from the top. The top of a hex key pin that presses on the primer seating system when the tool head os lowered is there between the #1 and #2 dies. You can see the pin enter the shell plate near the end of the stroke. This must be adjusted with every tool head but is easily overlooked.

jj

[AlamoShooter]

The shell plate its self can get louse too. The primer depth is a common "set-up" adjustment.

[sasquatch981]

All the priming was done on the 650. The funny thing is that I just loaded the last 150 rounds of the processed brass that I bought. No high primers. All the high primers cames from the processed stuff I did on the 1050.

[nwsnowbum]

Is it possible your swage backup rod was adjusted too far down possibly compressing the primer pocket?

[sasquatch981]

Snowbum, that is what I was woindering, I am going to check that when I get home from work, and prep 10-12 cases after adjusting the swage rod again.

[sasquatch981]

Got it figured out. It was just like NWSnowBum said, The backup swage rod, was belling the case web down. I am not sure how it got so out of wack, but it solved the problem. Thanks Guys.

[Alvarez Kelly]

Glad you got it figured out. :-)

[kalaur]

So let me get this straight, you 'prep' brass on your 1050, then load (including priming) on your 650? You're crazy, right? Why not just load it on the 1050? Or at LEAST be seating the primers on the 1050?