cas Posted March 12, 2012 Share Posted March 12, 2012 I'm thinking of starting a long thought about project and I'm not sure how to start. I will need a complete lower half and will be buying an aftermarket slide and barrel. So my options are; 1. Buy just a lower half. (and everything else I will need) 2. Buy a complete gun and sell the top half. (then buy everything else I will need) 3. Buy a complete gun and sell the factory slide and barrel and use everything else. I was just wondering if anyone's done this lately and had any advice which way to go. Money saved Vs. pain in the butt. If you did it one way, would you do it another if given the choice? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
splashdown Posted March 12, 2012 Share Posted March 12, 2012 Depending on your project, getting just the frame might be the best bet. I think Glockmeister sells frames. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TacticalReload Posted March 12, 2012 Share Posted March 12, 2012 If you're buying a G17, I might be interested in the top half. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EkuJustice Posted March 12, 2012 Share Posted March 12, 2012 what kinda project, what was being added etc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redbird1976 Posted March 12, 2012 Share Posted March 12, 2012 I'm thinking of starting a long thought about project and I'm not sure how to start. I will need a complete lower half and will be buying an aftermarket slide and barrel. So my options are; 1. Buy just a lower half. (and everything else I will need) 2. Buy a complete gun and sell the top half. (then buy everything else I will need) 3. Buy a complete gun and sell the factory slide and barrel and use everything else. I was just wondering if anyone's done this lately and had any advice which way to go. Money saved Vs. pain in the butt. If you did it one way, would you do it another if given the choice? I was working on a project gun for my dad a couple of years ago and settled on purchasing an STI Spartan with the idea that I'd complete a caliber conversion because I would be money ahead to buy the gun with all its lower parts installed. I was a couple hundred cheaper to buy the complete gun versus buy separate parts. The funny thing is once I got the gun, Dad decided he wanted the .45 afterall so I had to do was slick up the trigger and buy him some mags. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DRAB81 Posted March 12, 2012 Share Posted March 12, 2012 (edited) From my experience in my wonderful home state of CA (and the glorious fees and general nonsense involved in buying guns here), it's almost always cheaper to just buy the gun & sell the upper. Glockmeister sells frames for rediculous prices. most are well over $300 + shipping, and that's IF they're in stock. There is a guy on Glocktalk that sells frames for $170-$180 shipped from time to time. I think he goes by "william_h". . Edited March 12, 2012 by MEAT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cas Posted March 12, 2012 Author Share Posted March 12, 2012 I'm wanting to put together a 6" 10mm (why ai have no idea lol, a fun gun, maybe some woods use, nothing competition related). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
warpspeed Posted March 12, 2012 Share Posted March 12, 2012 From what I have seen, some of the top ends are more desirable than others. Check the WTB section on Glock Talk as well as the for sale and see what has been selling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DRAB81 Posted March 12, 2012 Share Posted March 12, 2012 (edited) I'm wanting to put together a 6" 10mm (why ai have no idea lol, a fun gun, maybe some woods use, nothing competition related). I know why... If you end up buying a G20, you should have no problem getting $300+ for the complete upper. Hell, I've been half a$$ looking for a spare G20 upper, so I might even buy it from you. . Edited March 12, 2012 by MEAT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NTD Posted March 12, 2012 Share Posted March 12, 2012 Wow! I generally think Glocks have no value aesthetically, but that's a pretty gun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cas Posted March 12, 2012 Author Share Posted March 12, 2012 Which slide did you use? And if it's a LW, open top or not? That's another internal debate I'm having. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DRAB81 Posted March 12, 2012 Share Posted March 12, 2012 Which slide did you use? And if it's a LW, open top or not? That's another internal debate I'm having. I'm running the G20LS (solid top) now, but I started with the G20L open top. I got the G20L first to have the option of running a ported barrel, but I can't see any reason to do that now. The G20L slide had an out of spec dovetail, so I had it exchanged with the solid top. I load some ridiculously hot 10mm & 9x25 Dillon, so the extra mass helps slow the slide down and keep it locked up longer. That way the case stays supported longer, and it doesn't chuck the brass across the country. I wouldn't think twice about getting the solid top, especially if you're not planning on using it for competition. I'm wasn't really comfortable doing my own smithing, so I sent my frame to LWD and had them fit everything in their shop. It runs 100% now, from a 180gr JHP @ 950fps to a 200gr WFNGC @ 1360fps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cas Posted March 12, 2012 Author Share Posted March 12, 2012 I was thinking the solid top was the way to go, for more mass, for looks and to not be a spot for "dust" to collect. (dirt, mud, snow) Of course they're saying they won't have any till some time in May. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DRAB81 Posted March 12, 2012 Share Posted March 12, 2012 (edited) I was thinking the solid top was the way to go, for more mass, for looks and to not be a spot for "dust" to collect. (dirt, mud, snow) Of course they're saying they won't have any till some time in May. While I hope for your sake that's true, I wouldn't get my hopes up too high. When I bought mine last January, their site said the expected delivery date was mid February. Fast forward to May, and I finally had mine in hand. It was well worth the wait, but it was INSANELY annoying doing the "2 more weeks" dance for over 3 months. Good luck, and be sure to give us a report when you get it all put together. Feel free to contact me if you have any questions, I'm more than happy to help. It's always nice to see another 10mm enthusiast! . Edited March 12, 2012 by MEAT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cas Posted March 13, 2012 Author Share Posted March 13, 2012 Then perhaps the best bet would be to order a slide and barrel and forget all about it till they show up. Hmmm…. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DRAB81 Posted March 13, 2012 Share Posted March 13, 2012 Then perhaps the best bet would be to order a slide and barrel and forget all about it till they show up. Hmmm…. Don't forget the 9x25 Dillon barrel while you're at it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cas Posted March 13, 2012 Author Share Posted March 13, 2012 I almost have more interest in that than I do the 10mm. lol What's your POA/POI difference between the two? My brief experience with a SIG in 40/357SIG left me less than thrilled. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DRAB81 Posted March 13, 2012 Share Posted March 13, 2012 I almost have more interest in that than I do the 10mm. lol What's your POA/POI difference between the two? My brief experience with a SIG in 40/357SIG left me less than thrilled. I haven't had time to play with it too much for accuracy testing, but I've done a fair amount of load development. I also have a Dawson adjustable rear, so if I encounter a drastic change in POI, I can make adjustments accordingly. Just screwing around at the local indoor range, surprisingly POA/POI @ 10yds has been virtually identical. That's shooting 10mm 180gr JHP's @ 1300fps & 9x25 Dillon 90gr XTP's @ 2050fps. I'm sure that will probably change when shooting from a rest @ 25yds+ though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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