Gaston Posted June 15, 2004 Share Posted June 15, 2004 I’m considering adopting a Dillon Super 1050 to load 9 mm Luger for my weekly practice sessions; eventually I want to reload smaller quantities of several other rifle and pistol calibers. Since I’m very busy, I intend to load several hundred rounds whenever I can find a little spare time so that I can accumulate my planned requirements for the next 2-3 years for one caliber, then convert the machine and load several thousand rounds of each of the other calibers. My question relates to the ease, or lack of, converting from one caliber to another. From reading comments on other discussion boards I get the impression that most 1050 users leave the machine set up in the original caliber and purchase another Dillon reloader for calibers used less often just to avoid dealing with the complexity of caliber changes. Others decide to purchase a 650 or even a 550 for precisely the same reason. I have average mechanical skill and a lot of patience. So, if I buy the tool head, powder measure, caliber conversion kit, primer system conversion and dies and try to convert from 9 mm to .308 Winchester how long would it take me ? How useful is the Dillon manual ? Any tips and tricks that would make the change easier ? Thank you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shred Posted June 15, 2004 Share Posted June 15, 2004 There's a short thread about 1050 caliber conversions here 9mm to 308 is pretty much a full conversion-- The shellplate and toolhead wouldn't take too long if you had two, but the priming system might be another beast to swap, and you'd also be changing out the casefeed parts. It's not something you'd want to do to run 100 rounds of this or that very often. How much more is a 550 compared to the complete changeover kit? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nik Habicht Posted June 15, 2004 Share Posted June 15, 2004 Gaston, It's not a direct answer --- but here goes anyway. I HATE reloading! I consider it to be such a huge waste of time, that if I ever hit the lottery for serious money, I'd put a reloader (human) on staff immediately. That said my 1050 is set up to load 9mm production loads. It's what I shoot most. My 650 switches easily and quickly between 9mm Open gun loads, .45 ACP, and occasional forays into .38 special. It may eventually see me loading .223 also.... If you have dedicated toolheads/shellplates the conversion shouldn't be too bad. If you have to screw around with the priming system ---- it's the biggest pain in the rear I've ever seen to get it up and running smoothly and reliably. I'm not going near mine, ever, unless it acts up again.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oddjob Posted June 15, 2004 Share Posted June 15, 2004 I originally had a 1050 and a 550 for the same reasons you mentioned about switching calibers. I found the 1050 and 550 set up was easier than switching the junk around on a 1050 (especially the small vs large primers). I loaded my primary stuff on the 1050. Now that my son shoots I have another 1050 set up for him. I would just get a 550 and NOT monkey with the 1050. I'm with Nik about reloading.......I find it to be as enjoyable as my annual prostate exam. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loves2Shoot Posted June 15, 2004 Share Posted June 15, 2004 Hmmm, it takes me no more than 10 (max) minutes to switch toolheads on the 1050, and another 10 (max) if I have to change the primer. The time spent swithing calibers is well made up for after a thousand rounds reloaded, plus the reloading is so much easier. Just my 2 cents Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
benos Posted June 15, 2004 Share Posted June 15, 2004 Although I didn't change priming sizes on my 1050 often, I didn't consider it that big of a loser when I had to. In fact, after initially setting the machine up in each primer size, as Loves2Shoot said, switching primer sizes only added about 10 minutes to a caliber conversion. (Not including swaging of course. Actually, I removed the swager from my 1050.) I have little actual experience with the 650, so I can't comment on that. I called Dillon to get some feedback from their super tech wizard on this question, but he's out till about the 24th. If someone reminds me I'll check back then... be Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shred Posted June 15, 2004 Share Posted June 15, 2004 Changing the priming on a 650 isn't a big deal if it's out of primers. If not, you get to play pick-up-stix with loose primers. Pop the shellplate, remove a couple bolts, swap the seating punch and you're done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loves2Shoot Posted June 15, 2004 Share Posted June 15, 2004 I removed the swager from my 1050 Me too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uscbigdawg Posted June 15, 2004 Share Posted June 15, 2004 Me three. Watching a friend who is well versed in caliber changes on a 1050 take 45 minutes was enough for me to keep my 1050 in .38 super and buy a 650 for .40 and .223. My world is very happy now. Rich Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loves2Shoot Posted June 15, 2004 Share Posted June 15, 2004 Did he not have an extra tool head? They are a must. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uscbigdawg Posted June 15, 2004 Share Posted June 15, 2004 He did. I should mention, I'm fairly lazy when it comes to loading. I generally am loading match ammo about 20 minutes before I leave for the match (hence why I have a 1050). I'm shooting more 3-gun now, and so I have to make a decision on caliber changes on the 1050. It would be so much nicer to load .223 on the 1050 instead of the 650. Rich Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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