LEE TURRET?

[noylj]

Gustav: Just a bit of looking at the Pro Auto-Disk and the size of the rifle cases would tell you that you can't get enough powder into a large rifle case using that powder measure.

I would recommend you look into either the Dillon or Hornady (RCBS) measure. The Hornady (or RCBS, they look identical except for color) is slightly more repeatable and the Dillon (which is actually licensed from Dillon since it is a large Lee Auto-Disk with working adjustable charge bars) is significantly easier to use. If you shoot cast lead in any of your rifles, get a Lyman M-die to expand and taper/bell the case mouth.

[The_Vigilante]

The Lee Double Disk kit will allow you to drop enough powder for the rifle charges.

[ScottyPotty]

The Lee Double Disk kit will allow you to drop enough powder for the rifle charges.

The max charge is about 45grns. People drill out their disks or Ive heard of making a triple disk kit.

[MojitoCalido]

The reason I said to not use TiteGroup with the LCT is because TG is a very small volume powder and the Discs have pretty big jumps for the small volume. Also, the adjustable charge bar does not work well with TG and typical 9mm/.40 loads in my experience.

I'm new to reloading and am using a Lee Classic Turret with the auto disk powder measure and Titegroup. I chose Titegroup because I had read somewhere a recommendation to use spherical powders with this equipment, and somewhere else that Titegroup was spherical. The latter is false. Nevertheless, the powder measures fairly consistently, but not at the volume stated in the Lee guide. With a sample size of about 10 readings per cavity, here is what I found.

Cavity 37. Lee book states that it should drop 4.4 grains. Actual grain drop average was 3.9.

Cavity 40. Lee book: 4.7 grains. Actual avg: 4.35 grains.

Cavity 43. Lee book: 5.1 grains. Actual avg: 4.75 grains.

I understand that some people modify the disks by drilling and threading a screw that protrudes into the opening on a disk so that you can variably reduce the qty of powder for a cavity, giving you some more flexibility or resolution in the powder charge volume.

FWIW, here's are the velocity results I saw, though I must add the caveat that the battery in the chrony was near dead, so I'll try to test again on Wed.

Titegroup powder. Hornady XTP 180 gr (FMJ) bullets. M&P Pro (5" barrel). 80 deg day. Sample size of 4-5 shots, avg FPS and PF are shown.

3.9 grains. Avg velocity of 884.2 FPS which equates to Avg Power Factor of 159.

4.35 grains. Avg velocity of 955.9 FPS which equates to Avg PF of 172.

4.75 grains. Avg velocity of 1026.6 FPS which equates to Avg PF of 185.

[gunguru]

Status…

Trade done, no more dusty scope and goodies, and now the proud owner of a :

- Lee Turret Press (not the classic) in near new condition, it only miss minor parts as primer arm (ordered trough Titanreloading) and the auto indexing clamp (not a big deal as I prefer begin reload step by step)

- Lee safety scale (may be usefull if the arm stop going up and down before next xmas...)

- Hornady Sonic Cleaner

So, I went to my local Reloading shop and bought:

- Lee’s pistol carbide dies (4)

- Case gauge (7 rnds)

- Hornady electronic scale (as the Lee’s still bouncing my test load...)

- Hornady Powder measure with micrometric measure

- Few goodies

- Primers, bullet (Berry’s 124 hp) and powder (titegroup)

So now I just have to install all that stuff, and let’s go.

The professional at the shop give me his “always good recipe”, what do you think about it? => 9mm, Winchester primer, Berry’s 124 gr HP, Titegroup 4gr, OAL 1.120, shooted in a CZ SP01 Shadow. According to him I should expect something around 1050 fps, giving a PF of about 130.

Thanks for your help

[gunguru]

And many said Lee's product are cheapo... if the press and dies seems ok, their "perfect powder measure" looks ssooooooo cheap compared to a Hornady or a redding, in that case, we exactly have what we pay for..., and not even sure it worth the 30$...

[Graham Smith]

And many said Lee's product are cheapo... if the press and dies seems ok, their "perfect powder measure" looks ssooooooo cheap compared to a Hornady or a redding, in that case, we exactly have what we pay for..., and not even sure it worth the 30$...

The Lee Perfect Powder Measure is actually fairly accurate and consistent. It's not up to par with the RCBS or Redding but it's a fraction of the price.

[ScottyPotty]

And many said Lee's product are cheapo... if the press and dies seems ok, their "perfect powder measure" looks ssooooooo cheap compared to a Hornady or a redding, in that case, we exactly have what we pay for..., and not even sure it worth the 30$...

The Lee Perfect Powder Measure is actually fairly accurate and consistent. It's not up to par with the RCBS or Redding but it's a fraction of the price.

Spend the extra coin and get the RCBS, Redding or Hornady power measure you will not regret spending more on one of these. I had many bad experiences with Lee PPM and don't recommend it to anyone. Buy a good one and you wont have to do it again.

[ramairthree]

I have had about 15 years of reliable Lee Turret Press use.

It is a good choice if:

you simply want to learn to reload

you want to have the ability to reload and supplies on hand if the need arises

you are going to load/shoot a hundred or less rounds per week

I have found:

The auto disc works great for some powders-

it is great for Bullseye, but kind of messy with WAP

it is great for W748, but not an option for IMR4064

basically, ball powders in a certain size range work great

It is fine for 5.56, but bigger rifle rounds that need more than 3cc or so of volume you will have to modify or go to a different brand

The regular bullet seating die does a great crimp for revolver/rimmed cases

For semi autos, the FCD is great. Using this means the 4 hole is the way to go.

Once you need need more ammo than 100 rounds per week,

you are going to want a faster press.

Keep in mind, in many cases you are not going to save a ton of money.

You can buy a 100 rounds of US made, brass cased, reloadable 9mm with non-corrosive box primers for about 23$ at Walmart.

With locally purchased powder, bullets, and primers, it is going to cost you about 13$ to 19$ depending on what bullets you get and what bulk you buy them in.

Wit large bulk purchases, (enough to offset the hazmat fee- so in the 500$-ish range) you can get closer to 10$ in the plated/bargain FMJ bullet type. An hour of my time is not worth the savings.

The intangible, non-monetary benefits of knowing how to do it, having stuff on hand if you can't buy ammo, and doing something with my kids make it worth my time.

5.56 is similar. You can reload for a cheaper than steel cased prices, vs. 35 cents and more for US brass.

Your powder cost will go up 5 times, and bullet cost will typically be 6 to 15 dollars per hundred. so about 16 cents a round and up vs. .35 and up for brass cased stuff.

.308, 30ish cents a round

buying in 1000$ plus lots, going to wolf primers, and a few other cost cutters can get you lower,

picking up vs. HAZMAT, tax vs. no tax.

And, consider also, will by be pistol, rifle, both,

one caliber, lots of different calibers, etc.

If you are going to load 200 rounds of 9mm, 100 of .45, 100 of .40, and 150 of 5.56 over a 3 month period,

a turret press with a die holder and auto disc for each caliber is going to be a breeze to change over and a great set up.

If you are going to load 500 rounds of 9mm this week, and another 1000 next month- you will be wanting another option.

I have put a lot of thought into this recently, and a turret press is no longer fast enough for some calibers I want.

But still fine for .45 or 10mm or .38 that I use a lot less of.

I am not in love with the Pro 1000 because it is based on the 3 hole turret and not the 4 hole.

I am not in love the the Loadmaster.

Neither has a primer system as bad as their rep, but regardless inferior to the competition.

For brands other than Lee,

I have some opinions.

I switch calibers a lot and already have a ton of dies. A square deal is not appealing to me.

The allure of progressive to me, involves a casefeeder and auto index.

A 550 is not appealing to me.

a Hornady LNL I would get before a Dillon 650 IF I was not going to get a case feeder.

If I was going the casefeeder route, a 650.

If money was no object, I would have a pair of 1050s with multiple quick change kits.

I do not know enough about other brands to comment.

[Tim/GA]

Good point on the costs, but don't forget- the best bet is to get to know some others who reload and when anyone is putting in an order they check around. Last order I made, 3 of us ordered powder and primers. I bought the majority so paid more of the shipping costs (hazmat and shipping was about $53) but it still only came out to $27 since we pooled the order. Sometimes can be the same with bullets. For 55grn plinking 223 bullets it would have been $125 per 1000 (12.5 cents/round), instead ordered a case with one other guy for $280 per 3500 (8 cents/round).

This really works best once you have settled on a couple of loads/powders and can buy the powder in larger quantities, then online is the way to go.

Back to this thread, I have been reloading for pistol (40 S&W only the past few years) on a SDB since 1993. It has worked great for pistol and since I compete with 40 only works fine for me. I need to start loading for my AR due to more 3-gun competition and practice but could not drop the money on a new Dillon so went with the Lee Classic Turret. Just received it and am going to get it set up today. I figure it will work for some time to load the longer range (69 to 77 grn 223) ammo and some 55grn for now and if needed I can upgrade later. Even then, the turret press will work for case prep on the rifle cases and can for resizing the 40 cases for the BarSto barrel in my limited gun (have been buying roll sized cases for matches with that gun).