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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

Extractor rod removal for 625


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Season's greetings from an old 1911 guy who got a brand new 625-8 under the Christmas tree.

I've been an avid student of the revolver forum here as I try to learn as much as I can as fast as possible since I want to be as familiar with this round gun as I am with my bottom feeders. I have a handful of moonclips from Dave Heath, have determined that the factory trigger pull is just awful, and that the chambers need to be camfered immediately.

I have a neophyte question about how to remove the extractor rod. Everyone's favorite hobby shop, Brownells, sells an extractor rod removal tool <brownells.com/.aspx/pid=26886/psize=48/Product/EXTRACTOR-ROD-TOOL>. My assusmption is that all I need to do is tighten this thing on the extractor rod at some point along its length and then just rotate it to unscrew the rod. Once it's unscrewed the extractor star will come off and I can set about to camfer the chambers. Reassembly is simply the reverse but with a dab of blue locktite on the threads.

Did I get it right? Do I need any other tools to accomplish the disassembly/assembly procedure?

Last neophyte question for the day. The 45 degree camfer cutters run about $100 for the cutter, handle, and pilot. A little too rich for my blood. Brownells has a deburring tool that looks like it might suffice for $40 <brownells.com/.aspx/pid=678/psize=48/Product/REVOLVER-DEBURRING-TOOL-CUTTERS>.

Any opinions on whether I'd be wasting my money on the $40 item? Should I simply try to find a 'smith who isn't backlogged and who will do the camfering for less money than the cost of the tool?

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Just my opinion but there are several quality gunsmiths and shops that can do this for you around the price of the tools. I would have them do it, unless you expect to do this job several more times in the future on other revolvers.

Might want to have them run a trigger job on it while they're at it ;)

Edited by sbcman
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There has been a lot of discussion on this...somewhere... For me I have the Brownells tool but I use a three jaw chuck more often. Remember it is left handed threads and put empty brass or dummy rounds in the cylinder before attempting to take it apart. The deburring tool is a mite aggressive, a fine dremel cone or wrapped sand paper may be route to go. good luck. later rdd

Just to be sure, you already knew to remove the Yoke from the revo to allow the cylinder to be taken off the yoke. Sometimes when we explain stuff, I at least skip over some stuff. :unsure: Prepare to disregard........disregard. :blink:

Edited by Bubber
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Definitely put a moon clip with spent cases in before doing anything, spent cases will be tighter than new or resized.

You can use brownells tool, vice grips (with padding) or a drill chuck.

Just remember to LOOSEN by turning CLOCKWISE! and tightening CCW.

Also when tightening back up don't overdo it, or you will crack the housing. Of course if it's not tight enough it can back out and give you a real death jam that is a big PAIN to loosen back up.

It's not a real tough job, kind of like reloading, easy to do and easy to screw up.

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Just my opinion but there are several quality gunsmiths and shops that can do this for you around the price of the tools. I would have them do it, unless you expect to do this job several more times in the future on other revolvers.

Might want to have them run a trigger job on it while they're at it ;)

Hey sbcman welcome to brian's forum good to see other INGO members and southern Indiana shooters here.

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Just my opinion but there are several quality gunsmiths and shops that can do this for you around the price of the tools. I would have them do it, unless you expect to do this job several more times in the future on other revolvers.

Might want to have them run a trigger job on it while they're at it ;)

Hey sbcman welcome to brian's forum good to see other INGO members and southern Indiana shooters here.

Thanks man! I don't post much over here as I'm usually too busy reading stuff. Hope to see you at some matches this year.

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