KohlerK91 Posted December 19, 2011 Share Posted December 19, 2011 (edited) I just got an RL 1050 and set it up for 40 S&W. Has not gone as spooth as I anticapated. Been having problem with incomplete depriming. Never had this problem on any other progreesive (SQDB or Star) It seems the Spring loaded decapper might have something to do with it. Unless I watch every primer fall out I dont notice the failure till the priming station. Thats not good. It messes the whole rythem. Been having loaded rounds without primers too. Cant seen to figure that out. Also noticed the crank bearings are quite loose. Call Dillon for support on this and was passed to FOUR different people. No one could answer my question, "how loose should they be"? .001" .005" .01" .02" ect...... The loose bearings, I believe to be the cause of the clunk as the brass exits the sizer die. The only solution I was offered was to buy the Complete crank assembly which runs close to $300.00.( NOT GOING TO HAPPEN) They said the needle bearing are discontinued and no longer availble. "Anywhere" I asked if I could get replacement bearings twice and got same response. I knew that to be false because I found some online. (Take a guese where)It is hard to beleive they would not support replacement bearing for their machines, only the sale of a complete crank assembly. Well Actually I do believe it. I know their is no warranty on this machine and did not expect anything for free.But surely this would be the place to buy some bearings for a Dillon RL1050. What do you think about getting some bronze bushings to replace the 1" needle bearings? Has anyone else done this? Would probably have to drill some oil wholes. I started with RCBS equipment. Had two Dillon Sqaure deal B's. Sold all of them and went to Star reloaders(still have them too). Which are awesome precion machines. Tights fits on everything. No plastic. Steal and brass everywhere. Came across this RL 1050 and jumped on it because they are suppose to be the cats meow. My first reloading seesion is giving me doubts on this machine. Am I expecting too much from the RL1050? Edited December 19, 2011 by KohlerK91 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merlin Orr Posted December 19, 2011 Share Posted December 19, 2011 Sounds like you may have ended up with someone's problem child. Properly adjusted - They are excellent machines. If you don't wan to fool with it I imagine you will be able to sell it easily. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rak Posted December 19, 2011 Share Posted December 19, 2011 call dillon they have great customer support!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RePete Posted December 19, 2011 Share Posted December 19, 2011 Take the bearing from the machine, go to a bearing supply house and have them measure it for a replacement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dnmccoy Posted December 19, 2011 Share Posted December 19, 2011 I would call Dillon before you start replacing stuff. Its probably something they can help you out with, and may replace the parts under warrenty Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RePete Posted December 19, 2011 Share Posted December 19, 2011 (edited) I would call Dillon before you start replacing stuff. Its probably something they can help you out with, and may replace the parts under warrenty Re read the first post. There is only a one year warrantee on a 1050 and this one is 8+ years old. Edited December 19, 2011 by RePete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oddjob Posted December 19, 2011 Share Posted December 19, 2011 Incomplete Depriming: I had to make the primer punch dull with a file. My 1050 was depriming and then drawing the primer back into the case. My primer punch was spearing the primer. I think there are some threads here on this. Dunno about the primers and bearings.........I would completely disassemble the primer assembly, clean it and put it back together carefully. good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aircooled6racer Posted December 19, 2011 Share Posted December 19, 2011 Hello: I would take the whole machine apart and clean it up. Measure the shafts and look at the bearings to see if they have flats on them. Look at the shafts for brinnell marks(grooves) also. The primer pin is too flat. Polish the end with a radius and it should work fine. If you want to sell it let me know I could use another one Thanks, Eric Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kalaur Posted December 19, 2011 Share Posted December 19, 2011 I've recently upgraded to a RL1050 as well, but mine seems to have none of these issues. As for the priming issue, try replacing the plastic tip on the end of the magazine tube (should be blue), sometimes these get a little mangled and can prevent smooth feeding of primers. Another thing for the priming system, is to NOT screw down the magazine cap screw tightly. Leave it about a turn loose, so the magazine tube can move around. Be sure to keep ALL parts of the priming system free of powder residue and grease. Another trick you can try is taping a bullet to the end of the plastic rod that rides on the top of the primers, this extra small amount of weight can help push a primer into the primer slide if there is a bit of powder or tumbling media in with the primers. As for the crank bearing, where are you seeing this play, side to side as you rotate the inner portion of the bearing, or actually to and from the needle bearings? Maybe you could make a video of the play so we can evaluate. I would assume some play in this is fine as long as its not excessive, since the tolerance really shouldn't affect the overall operation of the press. Primers sometimes stick to the end of the decapping pin, and when you raise the toolhead it can pull them back into the primer pocket. This happens to me on occasion, but I've learned to catch it pretty early on in the swagging station. When I notice it happening more and more often, I file the 'mushroomed' part of my decapping pin (almost like sharpening it a little bit) and it seems to help a lot. Some folks run Lee decapping pins, some folks bend a 'U' in the pin so it cant pull the primer back into the pocket. Don't get discouraged, many times people sell these presses because they neglect maintenance on them and don't want to deal with the problems anymore. More often than not, you can replace a few parts and have it back up and running smoothly with few headaches. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
angus6 Posted December 19, 2011 Share Posted December 19, 2011 If reprofiling the tip dosen't cure the deprime, and it didn't for me take a Lyman tip and use the the thick part if the Dillon tip for a backer and it should clear things up , got plenty of Lyman tips and can send a few if you can't get local Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
noylj Posted December 19, 2011 Share Posted December 19, 2011 The use of a non-Dillon sizing die fixes the spent primer retention issue. When the primer slide goes all the way back, there needs to be a "rubber" tube on the roll pin at the rear. It is VERY easy to mangle the plastic primer tip on the primer tube by tightening the nut too much. Too many people feel that all nuts need to very tight and the smash the plastic tip. Some people have needed to put a very light bevel on the primer cup on the slider so the primer drops in. Some sliders seem to be just a little too small for some of the primers at the high end of the range for primer cup diameter. As far as I know, Dillon still offers a 1050 cleaning/refurbishment service for about $100. Well worth it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gunracer38 Posted December 19, 2011 Share Posted December 19, 2011 Dillon will refurbish the RL 1050 for $150.00. It is worth the money. Good Luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retread1911 Posted December 22, 2011 Share Posted December 22, 2011 I have been running a RL 1050 for a little over 10 years. Mine was manufactured in 1989 if you want to swap some measurements I would be happy to measure eom items. PM me and. Can talk. I have had mostw of these issues over the years one at a time and all have been solved with the FAQ's on these pages. I am in MSP if you are close enough I would be happy to come over and help. If not then like I said PM me and we can exchange measurements. George Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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