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Hornady LNL AP: Case tipping, a REAL solution


ben b.

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After reloading for 3 years and about 50-60k rds of successful & low-stress pistol ammo, I started reloading rifle rounds in .223.

My .223 cases were tipping constantly. Maybe 1 in 20 of the .223 cases entered the shell plate correctly. I tried timing adjustments, no good. I called Hornady, they said to lock for a burr around the spring area and smooth it. No burr, but I dutifully sanded. Still the same problem. I tried opening the areas in the subplate where the spring dips down. No good. I think maybe the spring is not getting pushed down.

I pulled the spring off. Cases fed every time, perfectly. Put spring back on, cases start tipping all the time.

I put on a .45 shellplate, with spring. Cases fed every time, no tipping. Hmmmm.

The pistol plates have a wide thick, square cut rim on the bottom that pushes the spring down. The .223 shellplate had a skinny, beveled rim. Hmmm.

I go on the intrawebs again, and this time I find a thread where someone thought his rim had a bevel and it wasn't pushing the case retainer spring down. Hmmm.

I call Hornady and tell them the above. Doug tells me he hasn't heard of this one, but sends me a new .223 shell plate.

It arrived yesterday. It has a square cut rim. It works perfectly. No tipping.

THE END

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After reloading for 3 years and about 50-60k rds of successful & low-stress pistol ammo, I started reloading rifle rounds in .223.

My .223 cases were tipping constantly. Maybe 1 in 20 of the .223 cases entered the shell plate correctly. I tried timing adjustments, no good. I called Hornady, they said to lock for a burr around the spring area and smooth it. No burr, but I dutifully sanded. Still the same problem. I tried opening the areas in the subplate where the spring dips down. No good. I think maybe the spring is not getting pushed down.

I pulled the spring off. Cases fed every time, perfectly. Put spring back on, cases start tipping all the time.

I put on a .45 shellplate, with spring. Cases fed every time, no tipping. Hmmmm.

The pistol plates have a wide thick, square cut rim on the bottom that pushes the spring down. The .223 shellplate had a skinny, beveled rim. Hmmm.

I go on the intrawebs again, and this time I find a thread where someone thought his rim had a bevel and it wasn't pushing the case retainer spring down. Hmmm.

I call Hornady and tell them the above. Doug tells me he hasn't heard of this one, but sends me a new .223 shell plate.

It arrived yesterday. It has a square cut rim. It works perfectly. No tipping.

THE END

Hmm.. I'll have to look at my 9mm plate. Ive got 1 or 2 spots that tip 65% of the time. My .223 plate was flawless, but I'd still like to take a look at that.

Thanks for posting. Can you post pictures of both Shell plates ?

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I tried several 9mm plates. They they all had a bevel on the underside. Cases would tip. It was annoying.

I have the same problems with 9mm.

My shell plate is cut at a ~45 degree bevel, but since I changed to the #4 V-block (tried #2 and #6) and that helped some.

However, when testing it this evening (I just added the case feeder a week ago), it's obvious the case is hitting the spring and having to ramp over it, which at times causes it to bind on the shell plate. Because the v-block pushes from the top, this bind against the shellplate causes the case to tip forward. At least on my press.

I hope a new shell plate will help, just not certain how to get one machined without the bevel, as I imagine they sub those out to several suppliers from the sound of it.

Edited by mizer67
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...I hope a new shell plate will help, just not certain how to get one machined without the bevel, as I imagine they sub those out to several suppliers from the sound of it.

I might suggest asking the tech to get you one. I just checked my #8 9mm plate and and the rim is not perfectly square, but is nowhere close to the "beveled beyond all redemption" rim on the bad .223 shellplate.

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I have been having the same issue with mine in 9mm. It drives me nuts. I think part of the problem (someone mentioned it already) is that the Vblock pushes from above the center of gravity on the shell. Combine that with going over the spring and you have a recipe for trouble. I saw somewhere that someone added felt to the bottom of the vblock to extend it down and it does help a lot. It's nowhere near perfect though. They have to come up with a fix because it seriously pisses me off.

Now if I could just keep those 9mm cases from flying off the shellplate after they drop from the shuttle I'll be in business.

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Now if I could just keep those 9mm cases from flying off the shellplate after they drop from the shuttle I'll be in business.

Search for a thread by 98sr20ve. He came up with a pretty good solution to keeping the shells on the plate.

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Based on my experience, I'd say the problem is incorrectly cut shellplate rims to push the case retainer spring down. There seems to be substantial variance in that rim, and it is supposed to push the SAME spring into the SAME groove, no matter what cartridge, so why vary it?

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Interesting I'll have to look at my 9 mm shell plate, which was an old one I sent in to be machined for the EzEject. Early on I left the VBlock screw loose so the vblock would float this seemed to help over time I figured out that if I snugged it slightly and then loaded a few rounds and tightened it, that works better. The biggest help has been to get the shell plate good and tight, by this I mean I turn the adjustment down till the plate drags then just back it off till it does not drag. I started doing this as a cure for slinging powder when loading 9 major with 10gr of powder, a very slight drag on the shell plate stops it from popping into position.

My retaining sping looks like a plaised castineat maker hammered on it but it works, its got about 50k rounds on it.

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Based on my experience, I'd say the problem is incorrectly cut shellplate rims to push the case retainer spring down. There seems to be substantial variance in that rim, and it is supposed to push the SAME spring into the SAME groove, no matter what cartridge, so why vary it?

I hear rumors that Hornady does not make a lot of it's own parts. My experience with my LnL was that the shell plates for my LnL varied a good amount. The tops looked the same but the underside and particularly that ridge all looked different. I have not idea why they would be different (other then they are not all made on the same machine/place/specs. I got rid of my LnL. I didn't have the patience for this stuff.

Edited by 98sr20ve
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  • 2 months later...

Now if I could just keep those 9mm cases from flying off the shellplate after they drop from the shuttle I'll be in business.

Search for a thread by 98sr20ve. He came up with a pretty good solution to keeping the shells on the plate.

Recall which thread that was? A quick search didn't turn up anything obvious. I'm getting shells bouncing around lately as well.

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Now if I could just keep those 9mm cases from flying off the shellplate after they drop from the shuttle I'll be in business.

Search for a thread by 98sr20ve. He came up with a pretty good solution to keeping the shells on the plate.

Recall which thread that was? A quick search didn't turn up anything obvious. I'm getting shells bouncing around lately as well.

I don't know what he did, but what I and others do is make a tube extension. You can use a business card, primer cardboard material, plastic sheet, etc and wrap around the case drop tube extended down far enough to almost touch the slide area, leaving the back open for the case shuttle. I hold it in place with a small cable tie and have switched from the primer box paper to some clear plastic sheet I had around. Works perfectly. When it is time to change drop tube, just slide it off, pull the drop tube, and slide it back on the tube to store it.
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DSC_3492.jpg

Found the tubing at Lowes. It's not a common tube. It's

1/2 SilverLine PVC-1120 SDR-13.5 PR.315 PSI @ 73F

It a perfect fit if you just cut a slit and then cut out the notch.

Edited by 98sr20ve
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  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks for the tip and the pic! I grabbed a stick of the silverline stuff to give this a try and noticed a potential clearance issue on my setup. With my press, the metal drop tube sits so close to the upper head of the press, it doesn't look like i can get any sort of material between the tube and the press. I'll experiment and see if i can move the case feeder support pole further away but i dont recall there being much adjustment in the mounting bosses there. Did you run into a similar clearance issue and did you have to do anything to address that to get the tube to slide up high enough?

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Thanks for the tip and the pic! I grabbed a stick of the silverline stuff to give this a try and noticed a potential clearance issue on my setup. With my press, the metal drop tube sits so close to the upper head of the press, it doesn't look like i can get any sort of material between the tube and the press. I'll experiment and see if i can move the case feeder support pole further away but i dont recall there being much adjustment in the mounting bosses there. Did you run into a similar clearance issue and did you have to do anything to address that to get the tube to slide up high enough?

Hey I know you!

Jon, I use a small piece of business card on the side. They rarely fall off the back side. There is no clearance or tubing on my press either. The business card works perfectly. This only happens in 9mm. .45's dont flip off the plate.

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Hey 'Noosh, sup brother! I was able to shift the case feeder pedestal over enough to gain enough clearance. The pvc pipe is a little too small to simply slip over the aluminum tube but i think a single slit will do the trick and still allow it to clamp on rigidly. I have plenty if you want some to try for yourself.

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Thanks for the tip and the pic! I grabbed a stick of the silverline stuff to give this a try and noticed a potential clearance issue on my setup. With my press, the metal drop tube sits so close to the upper head of the press, it doesn't look like i can get any sort of material between the tube and the press. I'll experiment and see if i can move the case feeder support pole further away but i dont recall there being much adjustment in the mounting bosses there. Did you run into a similar clearance issue and did you have to do anything to address that to get the tube to slide up high enough?

Use a file and grind some away. It will fit. Just put the slit on the opposite side so it can expand over the tube.

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Last night I went and made a sleeve out of the pipe for my press. I cut a simple slit in the back liek you said to allow it to slide over after which i figured i could have just used some simple 1/2" pvc i had lying around since this stuff wasn't a perfect slip fit without the slit. At a buck and change for the 8' section, who can complain though and at least this low pressure stuff has a thinner wall so it will be less intrusive since there is little clearance bwteeen the discharge tube and the press body. Anyways, after adding the cutout for the shuttle v-block, i went and loaded 500 rounds and not a single misalinged case. Those loose cases would wreak all sorts of havoc and my overall reloading speed and consistency is way up after this. Much thanks to you Steve for this handy little mod!

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Before anyone starts grinding on their LNL, loosen the bolts that hold the case feeder support tube at the back of the press. You can reposition the support tube to provide enough room for the PVC pipe to slip over the case drop. Works perfectly!!!

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Yeah, i found that i had plenty of wiggle room in the support tube and bolts to tilt it to the side enough to clear (And them some!). Didn't have to fiddle with the shuttle guide wire either afterwards.

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  • 2 years later...

DSC_3492.jpg

Found the tubing at Lowes. It's not a common tube. It's

1/2 SilverLine PVC-1120 SDR-13.5 PR.315 PSI @ 73F

It a perfect fit if you just cut a slit and then cut out the notch.

I know that this is an old thread....I recently set up a Hornady LNL AP and had a question. In the pic, what is the small piece of material under the case shuttle V-block? Thanks.

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DSC_3492.jpg

Found the tubing at Lowes. It's not a common tube. It's

1/2 SilverLine PVC-1120 SDR-13.5 PR.315 PSI @ 73F

It a perfect fit if you just cut a slit and then cut out the notch.

I know that this is an old thread....I recently set up a Hornady LNL AP and had a question. In the pic, what is the small piece of material under the case shuttle V-block? Thanks.

It's so that you push on the base of the shell, and not the shell body with the V-block. When you have case tipping issues, pushing on the case body instead of the base will cause the case to topple over.

I fixed my LNL AP issues too... I bought a 650 Dillon and sold that Hornady junk.

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DSC_3492.jpg

Found the tubing at Lowes. It's not a common tube. It's

1/2 SilverLine PVC-1120 SDR-13.5 PR.315 PSI @ 73F

It a perfect fit if you just cut a slit and then cut out the notch.

I know that this is an old thread....I recently set up a Hornady LNL AP and had a question. In the pic, what is the small piece of material under the case shuttle V-block? Thanks.

Piece of felt for a furniture leg/foot protector. Helps it push more evenly. I also just got a 650. Its casefeeder actually works as advertised.

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DSC_3492.jpg

Found the tubing at Lowes. It's not a common tube. It's

1/2 SilverLine PVC-1120 SDR-13.5 PR.315 PSI @ 73F

It a perfect fit if you just cut a slit and then cut out the notch.

I know that this is an old thread....I recently set up a Hornady LNL AP and had a question. In the pic, what is the small piece of material under the case shuttle V-block? Thanks.

Piece of felt for a furniture leg/foot protector. Helps it push more evenly. I also just got a 650. Its casefeeder actually works as advertised.

Thanks....I thought that it was a small piece of felt. What did you do with your LNL when you made the change from red to blue?

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