Tools and spare parts

[John Tuley]

I ordered a .40 cal, bushing-barreled Trojan from Freedom Gunworks, which is almost ready (just getting the Atranite treatment and then it'll be mine, all mine!). Since this is my first 1911, can the forum maybe help me figure out what to pick up to fill the following bins:

1. Range bag spare parts
   
2. Range bag tool kit
   
3. Home spare parts
   
4. Home tool kit
   

I'm not a gunsmith, I don't play on TV and I never stayed in a Holiday Inn Express, so I'll still send the pistol to someone qualified for major work; at least until I build up experience and confidence with the gun's internals over time. But in the meantime, what's likely to go wrong that a mechanically-inclined quick learner with a good reference (which I'm looking for) could replace?

Thanks,

-- John.

[CSEMARTIN]

bushing wrench

a set of punches and a small hammer

a roll of duct tape (I place my frame on it when I'm punching the mainspring housing pin out)

small screwdriver to take out the mag release

allen wrenches

If you have a fiber optic front, you'll need a lighter and something to cut the rod

Enos' slide glide and oil

spare parts: an extra fitted extractor, main springs, recoil springs, plunger tube springs

That'll get you started. By the way, awesome first 1911!

[38SuperDub]

Tag for answers. I got a .40 Trojan on the way from Bobby also and I'm stoked!!

[HRider]

Along with what has already been mentioned, a recoil spring guide and plunger (especially the plunger, if you launch it while changing a spring at the range, you may never find it), a firing pin and stop, a sear spring tuned for your gun and maybe a mag catch fitted to your gun. I have never had to replace any of the parts mentioned at the range (except for a recoil spring at a match one time), but they don't take up much room in a range bag.

Hurley

[10ring]

I would add a spare Extractor, Slide Stop, and Thumb Safety fitted to your gun. Add a Firing Pin spring. These are the only parts I've broken over the several years I've been involved in the sport.

[Jonathan Taliani]

Make sure you have the correct tool to remove your grip screws (Screwdriver, allen wrench, torx bit, etc)

[shooter57]

Also become close friends with someone you shoot with that has a lot of spare parts incase you don't have a part you need. Seen people with enough spare parts to build a couple of guns.

[clayman]

1911s don't need many tools for a complete disassembly. I keep a kit in my range bag that fits in a 7x5x2 inch box from the hardware store, it opens like a clamshell with a bunch of compartments on each side. It fits in the side pocket of my range bag. All my spares are in there too.

Tools: Little screwdriver for magazine release removal, allen wrench for grip removal, allen wrench for trigger overtravel screw, bushing wrench, brass punch for the MSH pin and a folding mini-multi-tool

Spares: Carry as many spares as you think you may need and want to invest in, and pre-fit everything to the gun as necessary. I carry: Recoil, main, firing pin, sear and magazine release springs, extractor, firing pin stop, guide rod and plug, full set of pins, grip screws and bushings, shock-buffs, slide stop, plunger set, mag release complete with lock and spring, fiber optic replacements and bic lighter for install, hammer/strut/sear/disconnector- these are the original SA components from my gun which became "backups" when I upgraded my trigger components. There's still room in the little box for a tube of Loctite, a small bottle of lube and q-tips.

For the home tool kit, Brownells sells the nice magna-tip sets, just get the tips you need along with a punch set. You shouldn't need much more. If you're thinking of trigger tuning, a digital trigger scale is a wise investment.

[John Tuley]

Thanks for all the input so far!

Some comments/questions:

• Bobby's already tuned the trigger. I'm really just looking to keep the gun running in case of breakage.
  
• When "a set of punches" is mentioned, is there a particular range of sizes to keep around?
  
• I assume a hammer would be the brass/nylon mallet type?
  
• Is fitting a set of spares something I'm likely to sweet-talk a gunsmith (preferably Bobby, since he has the gun, or will when it gets back from getting the Atranite treatmente) into doing, or is the margin just too low for them? Remember, this is the first pistol I'll have owned that doesn't come with scary warnings about "do not take down past this point unless you're a qualified armorer, since you suck and we hate you."
  

[HRider]

While you are having the gun built is a good time to get the gunsmith to fit extra parts to it. It will be less costly to do it all at one time than to send it back later for parts fitting. Some things you may be able to do for yourself. Fitting a safety lock should not be one of the first gunsmithing things you try though. Like it comes, your gun should run for many thousands of rounds with little more than some TLC and fresh springs here and there. It is usually later when the fitted/tuned parts come into play.

Hurley

[2011racegunz]

I buy lot of my tool at harbor freight

dont forget small hammer and brass punches.

[clayman]

Punch set: I've had this inexpensive set from Brownells for years and it's done everything I've needed. It's got nylon, brass and steel punches in a variety of sizes including a 1/16 steel punch for the little roll pins that may be holding your front sight and ejector. It look like it includes both brass and nylon hammers. My kit came only with the brass.

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/cid=11370/avs%7cManufacturer_1=JOHN+MASEN/Products/Punches/JOHN-MASEN