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clayman

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Everything posted by clayman

  1. SA 1911s with the ILS lock use a proprietary mainspring cap which is longer than standard, and a shorter mainspring. You can install your Wolff mainspring but you'll also need to swap the SA mainspring cap for a regular 1911 cap to make it work. You shouldn't have any problems using your ILS mainspring housing, but the ILS will be disabled. You're right in the sweet spot for 45 cal 1911s, most guys I know (including myself) run 19 lb mains and 13 lb recoils with buffers.
  2. Punch set: I've had this inexpensive set from Brownells for years and it's done everything I've needed. It's got nylon, brass and steel punches in a variety of sizes including a 1/16 steel punch for the little roll pins that may be holding your front sight and ejector. It look like it includes both brass and nylon hammers. My kit came only with the brass. http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/cid=11370/avs%7cManufacturer_1=JOHN+MASEN/Products/Punches/JOHN-MASEN
  3. 1911s don't need many tools for a complete disassembly. I keep a kit in my range bag that fits in a 7x5x2 inch box from the hardware store, it opens like a clamshell with a bunch of compartments on each side. It fits in the side pocket of my range bag. All my spares are in there too. Tools: Little screwdriver for magazine release removal, allen wrench for grip removal, allen wrench for trigger overtravel screw, bushing wrench, brass punch for the MSH pin and a folding mini-multi-tool Spares: Carry as many spares as you think you may need and want to invest in, and pre-fit everything to the gun as necessary. I carry: Recoil, main, firing pin, sear and magazine release springs, extractor, firing pin stop, guide rod and plug, full set of pins, grip screws and bushings, shock-buffs, slide stop, plunger set, mag release complete with lock and spring, fiber optic replacements and bic lighter for install, hammer/strut/sear/disconnector- these are the original SA components from my gun which became "backups" when I upgraded my trigger components. There's still room in the little box for a tube of Loctite, a small bottle of lube and q-tips. For the home tool kit, Brownells sells the nice magna-tip sets, just get the tips you need along with a punch set. You shouldn't need much more. If you're thinking of trigger tuning, a digital trigger scale is a wise investment.
  4. you're right about the weight being the issue. I've got a Kimber .45 with a legal length rail frame and it's 39 oz box stock with a GI spring guide. I've also got a SA .45 with a legal length rail, GI style guide rod and it's 42 oz, so there's not much room to mess with if you want regular add-ons like a magwell and FL guide rod. A 40 cal barrel adds some weight too.
  5. I've been shooting the same for a few years now. Like the others said, if it ain't broke leave it alone. If the mags you are using are 100%, have at least 6 of them. Put some sticky grips on it and add a piece of 3M ladder tread tape to the front strap. Yes for the magwell, put a one-piece full length recoil spring guide and a buffer in it too. I think you'll like the extra weight up in the front of the gun. Extended mag releases can be pushed deeper into the frame and can actually capture the magazine and keep it from falling free. You might have to remove a little metal from the area opposite the edge that holds the mag in the gun. At my age my eyes need all the help they can get. I put a FO front sight on my gun and wouldn't shoot without one.
  6. I've got three SA 'loaded' and all have a pinned front sight Sounds like they took care of your problem and tuned it up a bit.
  7. Ti firing pins by themselves shouldn't cause light strikes. If you haven't already, remove the barrel and drop a round into the chamber. The base of the bullet case should be flush with the edge of the barrel hood. If the case is below the hood, either your ammo or your chamber is out of spec, possibly causing light strikes.
  8. edit to my previous post: I'm using a .190 x .125 Dawson front sight
  9. I’ve been shooting the same gun for a few years now and it’s proved quite trouble free. In response to some of your questions: Mags: I shoot with Wilson 47D mags with extended pads. These run great in my gun, no problems at all. They’re easy to disassemble and service and replacement parts are easily available if needed. The only mod I’ll suggest is to lightly bevel and polish the top edge of the magazine body where it contacts the magazine catch as its being inserted into the gun. Springs: I’m using a Wolff 19# main spring and a Wolff 13# recoil spring. I originally tuned the trigger pull to 3.5 lbs, as I got more confident in my gun handling skills I’ve dropped it down to 2.5 lbs. I got a very nice result without touching any sear surfaces. There are light pressure sear springs available. If you plan on doing any trigger work yourself I’d suggest you get a trigger pull gauge. Ammo: 4.8 gr WST, 230 gr Frontier plated RN bullet, 1.235 OAL. Pay attention to your OAL with frontier bullets, the bullet profile requires deeper seating that other RN designs. This load makes major PF (plus) in my gun. Mods to gun: Dawson fiber optic sight (.190H x .125W) STI titanium hammer strut, S&A MSH/magwell, Wilson tungsten recoil spring guide, Wilson buffer, Wilson slide stop, VZ grips and 3M stair tread tape on the front strap. As-is this gun weighs 43 oz.
  10. some video of squad 6 A great match, fun to shoot. Thanks to all at Pine Tree who were involved in organizing and running this!
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