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Cylinder rotation wobble


Ty Hamby

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I have a PC627 4" that Mike Carmony tricked out. I bought it 3rd hand. At the IRC in 2011 I was noticing that when I softly and slowly pulled the trigger it would hang up on one chamber. When shooting near to far laying down at 50yds I would pull slowly the gun goes click click STOP with another 5Lbs added to the pull it would power through the resistance and go bang. Wish I had looked Mike up while we were both there but I didn't want to bother him while he was playing. Last thing I want to do while playing it talk work. So I continued on and went home. Figuring Ill just shoot faster then I wont feel it.

I was cleaning my gun last weekend and noticed that the ejector rod was wobbling during cyl rotation. To I grabbed a new one straight from Brownell's thinking this must be it. I installed the new one and the problem went away. However the darn thing still wobbles. It wobbles just as much as it did with the old one. I rolled the old one on the counter and it rolls true. What would cause a wobble like this? Do I need a new yoke?

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Any time you screw an ejector rod on, it's crooked until you straighten it. Usually the rod isn't bent, it's because of the play in the threaded connection. Sometimes the rod is bent too, but a straight rod can have a lot of wobble due to where it's screwed together. If one comes loose and you retighten it, you have to straighten it again.

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I have had that happen when I disassembled the ejector rod assy. I unscrew the rod till it comes loose, paying attention to where the rod releases from the threads and back it up 1/2 turn more till I can catch the next thread in rotation to tighten. Tighten the rod and see if the assy spins straight. Has worked for me so far. Hope it does for you.

Remember, Left Hand Threads.

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Yeah, that's one reason why I strongly discourage people from disassembling their extractor assemblies unless there is a specific reason to do so.

Did the new extractor rod make the resistance in the trigger pull go away? If so, a little wobble won't hurt anything. Go shoot.

Does the cylinder spin freely when the cylinder is open? If so, it might be a bent or misaligned yoke/crane.

Does the cylinder spin freely when the trigger is pulled back just far enough to disengage the cylinder stop from the notches? If so, there may be an endshake issue that is allowing the cylinder to rub the rear of the barrel when it gets heated up. That can usually be resolved by installing a .002" endshake bearing.

If it appears the extractor rod is indeed causing a binding problem, try Granderojo's suggestion above, making sure the extractor is not overtightened. Before doing that, assemble it once without the cylinder and look closely at the extractor barrel as you tighten it down to ensure it hasn't been cracked.

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  • 1 year later...

At the end the best way to straighten (not sostitution) a bent ejector rod is a fixture system?

Two times I use make this job in a lathe with dial indicator, but at home I don't know if there is some good idea.

Thanks

Warren has a neat jig from Ron Power with a dial indicator and small pipe to fit over the end of the ejector rod. He finds the high spots and bends the rod slightly to get it perfectly concentric. I think Brownell's has them, got to get me one. Warren has the coolest toys.

Edited by toothguy
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