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“Bubberized” our speed loaders for the L frame


GmanCdp

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does anyone provide such a service to Bubberize Comp III's??? i'm not allowed to hold sharp objects...... :mellow:

Maybe it will work better Now

Edited by slflr
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does anyone provide such a service to Bubberize Comp III's??? i'm not allowed to hold sharp objects...... :mellow:

Linky no worky

Look here.

I'm going to make a guess that this is what Bob was linking to. LINK

Thanks :blush:

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  • 1 year later...

I'm very intresting to make one for exprerience..well..

I dont' understand in detail how CNC machine work on a circle surface with a thin drill bit

I read is possibly made it with sand paper or saw but I want do a clean and perfect job..and I think the CNC is more precise.

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Hi Patrick-

That is an end mill, not a drill bit. The CNC mill goes around in circles or side to side with a stepover of less than the diameter of the end mill so that over time the entire surface of the speedloader has been milled. You are right, the CNC is more precise.

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My Safariland has 4 years of life and a lot of reloads and fall in the grounds everytime, but still run well.

The central piece of plastic that keep inside the brass feet, how many life have ?

If it's worn is possible invert upside to upside?

Patrick, I think you are talking about what I call the "cam", it is not reversible. I do not know how long the speedloaders last. I have ruined a couple, but not because they were worn out. Because I would experiment on them and go a little to far. Later rdd

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It depends. Sometimes you can run plastic pretty fast, especially with coolant. In this case, I would keep the spindle below 1200 RPM to prevent melting, as you suggest.

The equipment I use is a cnc router as opposed to a mill. The router runs at 16,000 rpm with a carbide, "up cut", "fish tail" bit designed for plastic.

The cuts are made in a radial pattern using no coolant. There is no reason not to use a belt sander to complete this task. A high degree of accuracy is not necessary.

Edited by slflr
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I cut mine down on a 9" disk grinder I use for knives. It is a high end grinder with a VFD, but 60 grit did the job and followed by something in the 120 or 180 if I remember was what I finished with. Not a big deal, I could finish the face smoother with a finer grit but it isn't needed and it is dead flat.

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In the page of Robert Perdue on 4wheelgun.com i read this about the pic

"The trigger is tapped and packed with epoxy. Tapping the trigger helps retain the epoxy."

I think this extra modified is for fast release the cartridge, but is necessary?

I see on time my frind with some Bubberizzed Saf III, with a screw with round head insert in the trigger hole..

I think this metal part can worn the central closing pin in center of extractor.

post-27397-0-19823200-1350333968_thumb.j

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Patrick, the hole in the trigger sometimes will cause a hangup if one tries to sweep the cylinder closed. I would not worry about the wearing the center pin. You are not hitting it that hard as the trigger will flex. Covering the hole may also keep the trigger from becomming flared to the point of having to sand or turn down the part to fit. One note, On ChrisC's speedloader we put in 22 cal spent brass in the hole with a little epoxy. Chris will find out how good they last. :sight:

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for the trigger pin, this is a good choice ?

http://www.eeul.com/mb/2010/02/9518/

Yes Patrick those will work if the right size. I would have tried thim if I had a supply of them or knew about them. I have used many different ideas and things to fill the hole. Let us know how well they work.

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