bearsniper Posted July 3, 2011 Share Posted July 3, 2011 I bought the SP-01 used a couple years ago that had a bunch of trigger work done, firing pin safety removed, comp hammer springs replaced ect. Not sure exactly what was done but the trigger has always been sweet so I never cared. I have probably shot about 1000-2000 rounds through it with the only issue being that it doesn't always lock back on the last round. I went to the range yesterday and suddenly I was getting a 'click' when I pulled the trigger. The chambered round will not fire and has a light primer strike. If I recock and hit the same primer again it will almost always fire, and the gun will shoot fine for a few rounds and then just the frustrating click pops up intermittently. Also the more I shot the more persistent the problem became. I would normally think that it was either hard primer cups or a light spring (which it probably is) but the fact that this has never happend before with the same ammo (winchester white box) and occurs with other ammo has me concerned. What is even weirder to me is that it happend all of a sudden, and still fires on some trigger pulls but not others. Also When I bought it the safety wouldn't work so I tried to work on the sear but got overzealous and sanded too much off, now the safety moves but doesn't really work if it makes any difference. Also, does anyone know how much a new sear costs or the cheapest place to get one. Is a working safety necessary for 3gun competition? Any advice on where to start? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
burningsquirrels Posted July 3, 2011 Share Posted July 3, 2011 replace the sear through cz-usa so it is $8 or so. also order a fresh 13 lb hammer spring. yours probably wore out. when ordering the sear, you need to know which one. take the slide off, and look at it. if it takes up the width of the cage you need the 85 combat/shadow sear. if it take sup part or uses an fpb delete spacer, you need a 75b sear. they'll talk you through it on the phone. if your hammer spring is weak then it's also probably a good time to replace your recoil spring as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
burningsquirrels Posted July 3, 2011 Share Posted July 3, 2011 as an option to know, CZ custom sells an extra long firing pin to help guard against this and/or allow an even lighter da pull. check their site for the XL firing pin appropriate for an fpb non-shadow gun. they can also help you on the phone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eerw Posted July 3, 2011 Share Posted July 3, 2011 So is it one particular brand of ammo/primer? might also check your firing pin and the firing pin channel for debris that might be obstructing the movement of the primer. new sears from CZ-USA are not too expensive. if you are running without a firing pin block..you can use either the non-B style sear ( which is the 85C/Shadow sear ) or a B-style sear with a spacer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justaute Posted July 3, 2011 Share Posted July 3, 2011 Just curious -- what's the life-span of a sear? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bearsniper Posted July 3, 2011 Author Share Posted July 3, 2011 Thanks for the quick replies, good to know the sears are cheap enough. I'm guessing I will need to mod the new sear for better trigger performance? I think it had already been done when I got the gun. Should I run without the firing pin safety? if I run without firing pin safety is there any reason not to get get the shadow sear? Is there any disadvantage to the extra long firing pin? My gun is not a shadow, just an sp-01. Also any idea on why the slide isn't locking open on the last shot, it doesn't lock back most of time, but will sometimes. The light primer striking occurs on more than one kind of ammo. Thanks again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bearsniper Posted July 3, 2011 Author Share Posted July 3, 2011 also by the posts above I am assuming that czusa is cheaper than going through czcustom.com, they are $32 on this site. I am also assuming that I have to call to order one from CZUSA? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
burningsquirrels Posted July 3, 2011 Share Posted July 3, 2011 1. if your gun has a competition hammer, then it might need to be redone depending on if the sear or the safety was modified for the hammer. 2. firing pin safety - up to you. since you're on this forum, do you shoot uspsa or anything? also, you can get the shadow/85c sear if you have no fpb in place. 3. XL firing pin - no disadvantage other than cost. there's a matching firing pin spring. 4. what locks the slide back is the follower pushing up on the slide lock. work backwards from that, whether it's not pushing it hard enough or your support hand is keeping the slide lock from going up, etc. stuart brings up a good point. 2k isn't a lot of rounds. check for crud. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
burningsquirrels Posted July 3, 2011 Share Posted July 3, 2011 some parts are cheaper from CZC, some from CZ-USA, you just have to call to find out. some factory bits and pieces are cheaper through CZ-USA, some improved bits and pieces (xl pin, solid pins, improved trs) from CZC only. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eerw Posted July 3, 2011 Share Posted July 3, 2011 Just curious -- what's the life-span of a sear? really depends on the amount of engagement. if like a factory setup...that will last freakin' forever. tuned for CZ Comp hammer, truthfully I am not sure, haven't worn one out yet Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
burningsquirrels Posted July 3, 2011 Share Posted July 3, 2011 Just curious -- what's the life-span of a sear? stock - darn near forever. modified - depends. 1. one killer is if the trigger adjustment causes the half-cock notches to slap the sear on the way down. 2. another killer is breaking the hardened surface of the sear. having a very tiny amount of engagement - where the sear and hammer hooks touch - can be tricky. but dropping in a competition hammer on an untouched sear has been lasting me and others well so far with no signs of wear or rounding of the edges. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eerw Posted July 3, 2011 Share Posted July 3, 2011 also by the posts above I am assuming that czusa is cheaper than going through czcustom.com, they are $32 on this site. I am also assuming that I have to call to order one from CZUSA? http://shop.cz-usa.com/P-0420027101/Sear-Non-B-Style-7585.aspx http://shop.cz-usa.com/P-0420027170/75b-Sear-B-Style.aspx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
burningsquirrels Posted July 3, 2011 Share Posted July 3, 2011 damn, they went up. i swore i paid 7.50 or 8 last fall, lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bearsniper Posted July 3, 2011 Author Share Posted July 3, 2011 (edited) I guess I shoot mainly 3-gun but I also enjoy shooting a pistol match every now and then. It's probably time to give the cz some love, I bought it a while back (right when shadow came out) for around with the comp hammer, comp sights, and 5 mags for really cheap. The guy I bought it from evidently did a diy trigger job when he said he took out he FPB and changed springs. He said he put 1800 handloads through it, and I have probably put about that many factory rounds through it. So total round count should be circa 3500-4000. I have always wanted to put a the fiber optic front site on it since it just has the regular black comp front and the comp rear right now. I really love the CZ, but only other 9mm that I have to compare it to is the p7m13. Supposing I have to do the sear work myself, does anyone know of a good guide offhand? Any other customization that you guys recommend while I'm spending money and time on it? Edited July 3, 2011 by bearsniper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bearsniper Posted July 3, 2011 Author Share Posted July 3, 2011 btw I'm extremely impressed with how helpful and fast this forum has been, unfriggenbelievable Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eerw Posted July 3, 2011 Share Posted July 3, 2011 btw I'm extremely impressed with how helpful and fast this forum has been, unfriggenbelievable Squirrels is a ninja...quick at the keyboard, will snipe a for sale ad right under your nose too, if you are not watchful Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
burningsquirrels Posted July 3, 2011 Share Posted July 3, 2011 http://www.czfirearms.us/index.php?topic=19576.0 i have a front FO if you want to trade for that plain black front, but i'll have to look for it. post a pic of it? my gun basically has sights, grips, springs, and a comp hammer. very basic. if you've got no fpb block, that is a huge improvement in terms of reset. the rest is polish, polish, polish and spring tuning. eerw has some threads there for sp-01 reliability improvement in the sp-01 section. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bearsniper Posted July 3, 2011 Author Share Posted July 3, 2011 I will tell you now that it has been filed on. With the rear comp sight it is dead nuts on target, came that way, I haven't messed with it. Just need something to help me focus on the front sight more. hope this pic is good enough, without a macro lens i don't think its getting much better. http://www.czfirearms.us/index.php?topic=19576.0 i have a front FO if you want to trade for that plain black front, but i'll have to look for it. post a pic of it? my gun basically has sights, grips, springs, and a comp hammer. very basic. if you've got no fpb block, that is a huge improvement in terms of reset. the rest is polish, polish, polish and spring tuning. eerw has some threads there for sp-01 reliability improvement in the sp-01 section. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CZinSC Posted July 3, 2011 Share Posted July 3, 2011 Also any idea on why the slide isn't locking open on the last shot, it doesn't lock back most of time, but will sometimes. 4. what locks the slide back is the follower pushing up on the slide lock. work backwards from that, whether it's not pushing I have this issue too, it's either my strong hand thumb too far over the safety and barely touching the slide release, just enough to prevent slide lock. Or, it's my weak hand thumb sneaking it's way onto the slide release or just under it, again, not a lot of pressure, but just enough to prevent slide lock. Go the range, take a normal grip, don't think about changing anything, fire off about 6-8 rounds then stop, and look and see where your thumbs are. Like I said, it doesn't take much pressure to prevent the slide release from engaging. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
burningsquirrels Posted July 3, 2011 Share Posted July 3, 2011 more food for thought...i am down to 6-8 matches a month but i still feel better when i change my mag springs every year. when were yours last replaced? it is especially important with the 19 round tubes. if they are a bit anemic then maybe that could be part of the problem as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ck1 Posted July 3, 2011 Share Posted July 3, 2011 If you end up figuring out not going to slide-lock is as simple as inadvertently riding the slide-stop, you can try a regular 75B slide-stop which sits further forward than a SP-01's slide-stop (plus you'll end up with a spare slide-stop if you're ever unlucky and break one). I totally agree with what squirrels said about the sears too, they're not tool-steel like a 1911's, they're only surface hardened, so if you stone/polish them deep/hard enough to expose metal under the hardening you end you making them soft. I've found a little flitz or brasso on a q-tip and/or a few light passes with some 1000-grit is all it takes to clean them up and get them smoother, used with a competition hammer that's plenty of work to deliver a great trigger that'll last. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
burningsquirrels Posted July 3, 2011 Share Posted July 3, 2011 hey ck1 are you going to be at TN state? pm me. i'm requesting an all day sat squad. best way to break in a sear imo is shoot the crap out of it! lol. after a few matches it should be butter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bearsniper Posted July 4, 2011 Author Share Posted July 4, 2011 so I finally took out the firing pin assembly, way easier than I was expecting. what I found was what looks like a deformed roll pin and possibly deformed firing pin. I have attached pics let me know what you guys think. Everything else seemed fine, including spring (seems to still be quite stout) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bearsniper Posted July 4, 2011 Author Share Posted July 4, 2011 (edited) so I finally took out the firing pin assembly, way easier than I was expecting. what I found was what looks like a deformed roll pin and possibly deformed firing pin. I have attached pics let me know what you guys think. Everything else seemed fine, including spring (seems to still be quite stout) Edited July 4, 2011 by bearsniper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eerw Posted July 4, 2011 Share Posted July 4, 2011 the roll pin is broken..that is where the firing pin is contacting the roll pin, CZ factory guns use a double roll pin because with a lot of dryfire will bend, break. the double roll pin is supposed to help. Angus/CZ Custom have a replacement solid pin which is a good part to have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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