Hammer question

[davehorn]

First of all, the gun in question functions perfectly. That being said here is my question. When the hammer is down, it does not sit flush with the back of the firing pin stop plate. It looks like the hammer is being held up/resting on the firing pin. I've tried 17,18 and 19lb mainsprings, and swapped firing pin springs, all with the same result. Again the gun fires, it just looks like something is amiss. I did install a S&A msh, which dropped in, so I don't think that's an issue. Is this something to look further into, or a non-issue?

[kalaur]

It shouldn't be an issue, when the hammer is 'down' there is not much leverage on the hammer/strut from the mainspring. Many pistols have their hammers resting on the firing pin instead of the firing pin stop as they don't have enough force or leverage to overcome the firing pin spring. If your pistol has a firing pin safety, it could also be resting on that.

[astephenson]

There is definitely something wrong and you should sell it to me so I can get the problem resolved. We're talking about the PM-9, right? If not, nevermind.

[davehorn]

It shouldn't be an issue, when the hammer is 'down' there is not much leverage on the hammer/strut from the mainspring. Many pistols have their hammers resting on the firing pin instead of the firing pin stop as they don't have enough force or leverage to overcome the firing pin spring. If your pistol has a firing pin safety, it could also be resting on that.

No FPS, but like I said it functions fine, so I guess it's ok. I just noticed it was different from my other guns.

There is definitely something wrong and you should sell it to me so I can get the problem resolved. We're talking about the PM-9, right? If not, nevermind.

No we're talking about the Valor. If I have my way you will see more of the PM-9 than you want!

[ebg3]

Since it functions fine, there is no problem. If it bothers you, you could try a longer hammer strut or a different mainspring cap. The SV struts work for me.

[Powder Finger]

The MS cap stops short on the little cap pin, that's why I don't run a cap pin.

[jpl]

The MS cap stops short on the little cap pin, that's why I don't run a cap pin.

And some of the reasons it does that are:

Strut too short

Ti strut worn and egg shaped the hole

Cap retaining pin hole in MSH is too low (I found one of these just this past week.)

Generally you do want the hammer, while at rest, to be making contact with the firing pin stop. If it is not it is likely stopping on the retaining pin, as mentioned, and that is not a "good thing".

Think about it. The 1911 is an inertia firing pin design. That means that the hammer smacks the firing pin and sends it toward the primer. If it's stopping on the retainer pin, it now is an inertia hammer, too. So you're hoping the hammer has enough mass and speed to whack the firing pin hard enough to drive it into the primer, since it is "floating" between the mainspring cap and the firing pin.

I like a more "direct drive" system. A lot of us are using long firing pins, so that when the hammer is at rest there is actually pin protruding from the breech face. No more inertia. It is a direct connection from the mainspring to the primer. Posititve ignition.

If the op's pistol was mine, I'd fix it.

Edited May 19, 2011 by jpl

[davehorn]

The MS cap stops short on the little cap pin, that's why I don't run a cap pin.

And some of the reasons it does that are:

Strut too short

Ti strut worn and egg shaped the hole

Cap retaining pin hole in MSH is too low (I found one of these just this past week.)

Generally you do want the hammer, while at rest, to be making contact with the firing pin stop. If it is not it is likely stopping on the retaining pin, as mentioned, and that is not a "good thing".

Think about it. The 1911 is an inertia firing pin design. That means that the hammer smacks the firing pin and sends it toward the primer. If it's stopping on the retainer pin, it now is an inertia hammer, too. So you're hoping the hammer has enough mass and speed to whack the firing pin hard enough to drive it into the primer, since it is "floating" between the mainspring cap and the firing pin.

I like a more "direct drive" system. A lot of us are using long firing pins, so that when the hammer is at rest there is actually pin protruding from the breech face. No more inertia. It is a direct connection from the mainspring to the primer. Posititve ignition.

If the op's pistol was mine, I'd fix it.

Thanks for the responses. I had about decided to take it to a smith to have it looked at anyway. It is a relatively new gun (Dan Wesson Valor) with only about 1000rds through it. Would running it without the MS cap pin in place(assuming that then made the hammer rest against the FP stop) be an option, or a temporary band-aid?

[Powder Finger]

The MS cap stops short on the little cap pin, that's why I don't run a cap pin.

And some of the reasons it does that are:

Strut too short

Ti strut worn and egg shaped the hole

Cap retaining pin hole in MSH is too low (I found one of these just this past week.)

Generally you do want the hammer, while at rest, to be making contact with the firing pin stop. If it is not it is likely stopping on the retaining pin, as mentioned, and that is not a "good thing".

Think about it. The 1911 is an inertia firing pin design. That means that the hammer smacks the firing pin and sends it toward the primer. If it's stopping on the retainer pin, it now is an inertia hammer, too. So you're hoping the hammer has enough mass and speed to whack the firing pin hard enough to drive it into the primer, since it is "floating" between the mainspring cap and the firing pin.

I like a more "direct drive" system. A lot of us are using long firing pins, so that when the hammer is at rest there is actually pin protruding from the breech face. No more inertia. It is a direct connection from the mainspring to the primer. Posititve ignition.

If the op's pistol was mine, I'd fix it.

Thanks for the responses. I had about decided to take it to a smith to have it looked at anyway. It is a relatively new gun (Dan Wesson Valor) with only about 1000rds through it. Would running it without the MS cap pin in place(assuming that then made the hammer rest against the FP stop) be an option, or a temporary band-aid?

I have not run that pin in any 1911/2011 i've shot for.......well I don't remember around 400,000 rounds.

IMO if it works correctly as JPL points out when at rest the cap is not touching the pin. So by removing the pin the hammer sits the way it should at rest no matter what.

You have a little hassle putting the gun together after cleaning but it never bothered me.

[davehorn]

Removed the msh cap pin, the hammer now sits flush with the firing pin stop plate when down. Thanks Powder Finger

[Powder Finger]

Da Na Der

[Sherwyn]

I usually put a slight bevel on the top edge of the spring cap...just add bevel until you have full contact of hammer on firing pin stop.

Easily done with drill and file and allows use of pin and easy assembly.

Sherwyn