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Help needed with reloads


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OK I hope I can get all this down and have it make sense. Any help would be appreciated. I need load info for the following:

Bullets

185 gr FP West Coast plated

200 gr FP West Coast plated

185 gr JHP Montana Gold

200 gr JFP Montana Gold

Powder

VihtaVuori N310

Alliant Bullseye

Primers:

Winchester WLP

CCI 300 Large Pistol

Mix and match if you wish, his is what I have so if you can help put a combo together that would be great. :D

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Don't you think I would have already thought about that???? Why do you think I'm asking for this info??? because I can't find it in any of the manuals I've looked in :angry:

Don't get too upset. A LOT of people just want the recipe...they often don't realize all the other great info that is contained in the "cookbook".

Are your looking for a load to shoot Major in USPSA/IDPA? Bullseye competitions?

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:D The frustration comes from not being able to find any data. If someone could recommend a book with these loads I have no problem going out and buying it, it's just finding it. :unsure: I even sent mail to VihtaVuori and they sent a reply back "sorry, we haven't tested that load" I'm ready to flush it down the toilet. If someone could even recommend a powder that has a lot of data that would be great. Thanks Tightloop for the input and yes, flexmoney, I would like to have a "practice" load and one for the USPSA Major. Currently I shoot a Springfield TGO 1 in Limited-10 and just ordered a Brazo Pro Sx for open which should be delivered in May of next year or sooner I hope. Thanks again guys and if you could point out a book, please let me know.

Dave :blink:

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Never shot any plated or 185gr stuff. The 200 gr stuff should work with 5.7 W231..close to major, but don't really know, hope this helps. we always shot 200 lsw, H&G 68 over 5.7 W231 or 5 gr Bullseye, but I don't really have any data for jacketed or plated bullets in those weights. Checked my VV catalogue and they only show 320 and 340 in ACP...

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For the Montana's start with the starting loads for the same weight as any jacketed HP, you'll have to work the loads up on a chrony.

For the plated (I asked this before here too), the recommendation was start with lead loads and work up. They seem to be slower than lead, but faster than jacketed for me, and really closer to jackeked laods worked best for me.

Do a search here on "45 and west coast", you should find some recipies, also on the 1911forum board, where 45 is much more common.

I've just started shooting the West Coast 200FPs they've been pretty good, and they're cheap. And from recommendations here, started using WST, so my data won't help you much. 45's don't seem to be too picky, you might look at cheaper powders than the VV (W231, WST, I used to use TiteGroup).

Cheaspest combo for me would be 'WC 200, TG, WLP' but it's dirtier than 'WC 200, WST, WLP'. WST has also had some of the lowest SD (standard deviations), of any of my loads.

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Cheapest things out there that I found are Chrony's. I got a refurbished one from them (http://www.chrony.ca/) for $50. Works well, no memory or anything fancy - but does the job. From there features and price start climbing.

Then I wanted a timer, and looked at the PACTs.. ended up getting the MarkIV, that's a combo timer/chrony (Brian sells them - no shipping charges, no tax). The accuracy is the same, but has a nice memory, review function, that justs works better for me. I can chron the loads faster with it - basically shoot 10, then either just get the min/max, avg and SD, or record the whole strings - I should just break down and buy a printer, but haven't bothered yet. It would have saved me money in the long run, just to have started with it.

I've used them both, on a normal cheap camera tripod.

Do a search on chrongraph, should be tons of stuff. If you're going to chron indoors include that in your search "chron and indoor", there's been alot of discusions on which ones work where.

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BTW - can someone recommend a good Chronograph and a place to pick one up for a good price?

Our host of this forum, Brian Enos, sells an excellent shot timer / chrono, the Pact MK IV. Got one. Works great.

Get a tripod from Harbor Freight for under $20 and a HP 82240A or HP 82240B printer on eBay for $40 and you're set.

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Hey Newbie:

3.9 of N310 under any of the bullets you have will make a nice light target load. Accurate, good for steel. You may need to use a lighter recoil spring. 4.4 or 4.5 grains of N310 should make major with the 200 grain bullets. If you want to use the 185s, you'll need 892 fps. You'll need to use a chrono to work up.

Cheers,

Norm

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Thanks Norm :D I will give it a try. Looking at Chronographs now to purchase. Question, do you think the range mind if you set one up inside? I shoot at the Basspro shop here in Illinois. I guess I'll have to give them a call. I also got mail from someone on this board to try titegroup so I will run out and give that a try also. Thanks again for your help.

Dave

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I think the Sierra manual has load data that will make Major with their versions of those bullet weights and Bullseye(should be close, start lower and chrono).

If you don't have a timer or a chrono, the Pact Mk-IV is the ticket...and Brian sells it.

Chronos don't work well indoors, unless you buy one with it's own light source. (There are a few threads on this already...dig them up for good info).

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Newbie:

I have a CED Millenium Chrono, with the infrared screen kit. It is simply FANTASTIC.

As Flex said, the problem you have at an indoor range is that you have to provide additional lighting. Most kits I've seen require an AC plug in (they're usually fish tank type lights). This may be difficult to get on a range. The infrared pack runs on batteries, as does the chrono, so you can use the set up anywhere. I use mine at 100, 200, and 300yds to determine downrange velocity & BC numbers for rifle loads.

The chrono is great - you don't need a printer, it has lots of memory and there is an easy download to your computer so the numbers can be saved. It has big digits that can be seen from 300yds through a 20x scope. It will do calculations for you (SD, PF, Min, Max, Av, spread). Also, the display and the computer part of the chrono are housed in a different enclosure than the sensors and sky screens. If you shoot the chrono (and you will) you will only have to replace a screen/sensor. Much cheaper than the guts. This I know from personal experience!

BTW if you shoot one of the light kits using 120v AC, you will likely blow the circuit breaker at the range. I have seen this happen (didn't do it). The range guys got pretty pissed - put 4 shooters in total darkness with loaded guns! Couple of them started pulling the trigger to see muzzle flash (eeeek). This range outlawed chronos until I showed them the CED.

Brian can also take your order for the CED through Dillon. I'm sure his deal with Pact is better, but, hey, a nickle or 2 is better than nothing!

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Flexmoney, thanks I, will see if I can get a Sierra manual from the local shop this weekend.

Monster, thank you. I will load them up tonight and try them this weekend.

Gun Geek, :D you crack me up! You actually shot your Chrono?? I hope I don't do that! I hate throwing money out the window and besides the wife would shoot me if I did that. I am ordering the CED today along with the infrared screens and battery pack. Anything else you think I might need??? :unsure:

Dave

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  • 1 month later...

The Lyman 48th and Pistol and Revolver reload manuals have these bullet weights in both cast and plated / jacketed and can be used interchangeably as long as you don't start out with the max load. They also list major power factor loads for competition shooting.

Jim

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Newbie:

Sorry for not catching your reply earlier.

I've actually shot my sensors twice. Since the CED's electronic guts are in a seperate enclosure, it wasn't a big deal to get a new part to replace it.

The first time I shot the sensor was with a .45. I put a target on the front of the screens I was being verty careful to shoot at the center. Well, at 2 yards or so there is a little bit of parallax (bullet hits lower than sight picture indicates because sight is higher than the bore axis). I just grazed the top of the sensor housing. Shattered the plastic, but didn't hurt the electronic eye.

2nd time I did it was with a scoped air rifle. Same parallax problem as above, but it is much more of an issue with anything scoped - about 2' or so. Put a hole in one side of the sensor housing, but no other damage. Still works great. BTW the air rifle was a .177 Gammo and it clocked at 1025 fps with a target pellet.

I have seen people shoot chronos both up close and at distance (put the chrono downrange on a rifle shot - by knowing the distance, the muzzle v and the downrange v you can get lots of good info on trajectory, BC, etc).

I think up-close is more of a problem because of the parallax.

Hope the CED is workin out for you.

Geek

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If you wish to avoid taking out chronos or their skyscreens, may I suggest setting up a target, in such a fashion, that if you align the sights upon it and pretend to be shooting a group, it will be virtually impossible to hit any part of the machinery? Not to mention that it's a timesaver ---- 'cause you're shooting a group, with every ten rounds over the chrono.....

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