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Posted (edited)

I am stuck on a mental fence again. with a planed rifle build. I am set on the Rem 700 in 260

What I had to make my start was an Older rem 700 blued that has a 222 barrel and bolt wood stock , I would have to have the bolt face opened up and a new extractor cut in. the big thin it has going for it was = its serial # is only six digits long and ends in xx1957 . I thought that was kinda cool

This older gun has not been shot for over 30 years.

the one I just picked up has a stock that will work to start out with and is Stainless steel with a 22-250 bolt and barrel , the thing I don;t like is the silly rem "lock key" on the bolt

Do I trade off the older action to fund the build on the new ss. or trade off the newer action to build on the older one?

I do like the Stainless Steel , But I like the serial number on the older one.

I have a scope base coming for the 22-250 to get some training in with the 500 rounds of amoe I have stocked

Edited by AlamoShooter
Posted (edited)

Were it me, I'd build on the stainless and keep the older rifle as-is.

You can get "non key" shrouds from multiple sourcers.

Brownells part #100-000-537

Add to that

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=763249

and your physical conversion is complete....

Basically throw $400 (depending on your level of gun-fu ) at it and you have the rifle you WANT, without butchering a classic :)

Ken

Edited by m134b
Posted

didn't really think of it as Butchering , but that is a point , I cant see my self building a 223 bolt gun with two ARs that shoot so good.

Posted

just a side note, I was thinking of building a .260 on a 700 action, but I went with the 6.5 creedmoor instead, so easy to load for, same ballistics and I get a little faster velocities,,,,,,, no regrets.

Posted

Why not trade off the new buy a new 308 and build off of that. That way you dont have to mess with the bolt face...

Posted

You don't have to mess with the bolt face on the 22-250. It is the same. One of the reasons to use that one. He already has the gun. He needs a barrel and the replacement bolt shroud without the silly key.

Posted

You don't have to mess with the bolt face on the 22-250. It is the same. One of the reasons to use that one. He already has the gun. He needs a barrel and the replacement bolt shroud without the silly key.

Yes I like the stainless steel receiver for the build.

But I can get a complete tricked out bolt from Tubbs for $380 to go on the older one that has the 222mag barrel on it.

Not any way to just re-chamber the 222 mag to take 223 , so I am still with the question of what to do what to do

I suppose I could get some 222mag brass and keep that action as a training set-up to save the barrel life on my soon to be 260

Just got a Badgers rail and I will have to re tap the screw holes to 8-40 thread

Posted
so easy to load for

How so? easier than .260?

My experience due to the lack of good .260 brass, reloaders form good (lapua, etc.).243 or .308 brass into .260, I know Nosler is now making good stuff, but the price!!! :surprise: twice as much as creedmoor stuff.

Posted

If you have somebody like PTG make you a new bolt, You can keep the old stuff in the event that you want to change it back. The PTG bolt will be super tough to take your primer blowing load development and can be had fluted, cut for Sako extractor, w/ tacticool handle and all. They will make it to the size that you provide for a super tight fitting bolt.

Posted

Ref the .222 mag not being able to be turned into a .223, If the barrel is original chambering, there should be enogh room to lop off a bit of the chamber end and re-chamber, new threads, etc etc. If the barrel is in good shape and you want to use it, that should be an option. To be sure, you would have to measure.

Posted

Ref the .222 mag not being able to be turned into a .223, If the barrel is original chambering, there should be enogh room to lop off a bit of the chamber end and re-chamber, new threads, etc etc. If the barrel is in good shape and you want to use it, that should be an option. To be sure, you would have to measure.

Sounds cool

Posted (edited)

To each their own :). Personally I'd build up the stainless. Some of that is because I'm somewhat lazy and there's less work involved! :ph34r: Let us know what way you go and post some progress pics!

Ken

Edited by m134b
Posted

+1 on Lapua now making and selling .260 brass. I've shot .260's, 6.5 Creedmore's and 6.5 X 47 Lapua's. Take your pick. They all shoot very accurately and very consistently, with some slight difference in muzzle velocity.

Posted
My experience due to the lack of good .260 brass, reloaders form good (lapua, etc.).243 or .308 brass into .260, I know Nosler is now making good stuff, but the price!!! twice as much as creedmoor stuff.

Lapua makes some good brass, but it is a little pricey. I have good luck with REM brass. That is what I use.

As for an action, I would try to find a used rifle for the action. Of course if you have the money you might look at the surgeon action.

Posted

I built my 700 Remmy in .260 AI. If I had it to do over, I'd probably just do a .260 Remington. The extra capacity of the Ackely just isn't something I've needed. Fire forming the AI brass is cake though. No regrets.

Glad to hear that Lapua is making the brass, I've been buying Lapua .243 Win and necking it up.

Posted

OK my JP stock is on the way , the gun will be built on the older blue gun that has the 222 mag barrel , it will have a Pacific Tool and guide bolt the Barrel will be a medium Paloma

It will be ready in July

I am going to save or sell off the SS 700 that is in 22-250

Posted (edited)

OK my JP stock is on the way ,

Which JP stock did you go with?

The 15.5 tubular / modular chassis - in plain old Black

What is this scoop on the "painted" rifles is the stuff that is painted on that durable ? My new barrel is SS and the reciever is old 45 year old blueing.

The builder / smith showed me several with the 'coating' on it, but I did not think to ask more abou it at the time.

Edited by AlamoShooter
Posted

OK my JP stock is on the way ,

Which JP stock did you go with?

The 15.5 tubular / modular chassis - in plain old Black

So I am going with the his recommendation of cerakote

I have a choice of Bartlin -medium Paloma- with a 1in 8 twist or the Burx in 1in 8.5 twist 24' or less

My pick is the Brux in 8.5

and open up the side ports to lighten up a Badger O. threaded comp

Photos to come

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

If you decide to compete in NRA sanctioned matches, you can't have the compensator.

With the medium Palma contour my 6.5x47 (about the same as 260) doesn't feel like it needs a comp. It would look cool, but it don't need it.

If you think that you might compete, but still need to go Borne Identity w/ the rifle, your guy can make a compensator that's removable.W/ the removable comp. you can easily add a supressor later w/out having to visit the gunsmith.

You're gonna love that PTG bolt, they're outstanding.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

The gun is finaly in the works and should be complete in September, I am going to take my JP stock with the 22-250 action mounting on it and the Vortex 5-20 Razor to the Rocky Mountain 3 gun event just for some side track work.

I like the stock , and the optics is great for makeing a tight shot.

Look me up this week if you want to try it out. my old 22-250 loads are not that great but it gives good training

  • 4 months later...
Posted (edited)

The gun is finished = built on the old receiver that a friend had from some of the first few years that Remington made the 700 action.

its a "Leather Built custom Rifles" with a Barlein 1 -8 medium Palma barrel & Badger break and scope mount. JP stock and a Vortex 5-20 Razor EBR-2 scope

I am learning how to shoot a bolt gun and it is working great for me

26012-2011002.jpg

26012-2011003.jpg

I know this is not great , but it is great for my skill level.

the calipers are set a 1.5" and the group is just a bit larger

12-26-2011riflegroups001.jpg

I forget at least one shot in every group to check the scope level and the shot drift.

But even with these targets in the shadow I could see the hits through my scope set at 20 power.

Edited by AlamoShooter

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