kyojin Posted March 28, 2011 Share Posted March 28, 2011 I'm building an Open Glock and need some help. Here is the parts break down. G17 LW threaded barrel Jager comp ISMI 14lb recoil spring SJC mount C-more Lowered ejection port And some trigger mods I'm building this gun to shoot 9 major. I've already got a load worked up. 7.7gr HS-6. Shooting the gun with the SJC mount I am getting some FTE's. Even with my ejection port lowered. I take off the mount and no problems. I notice that some of my brass still hits on the slide and will go straight up. That is probably what is happening. Brass hits the slide, goes straight up, and hits mount and gets caught. I've tried a .40 ejector and that didn't help. Without the comp on and shooting minor loads I don't have any issues with the brass ejecting and causing FTE's. As soon as I put the comp on I have 1 out of 20 with FTE's. Without the SJC mount the gun runs fine with the major loads and comp. I'm getting close to just sending it in to SJC and having them figure it out. I hear of people tuning their extractors but haven't been able to find how to do that. I also saw that Carver Customs makes an extended 9mm Ejector. It's $40 and not sure if it will fix my problems. I hear that people go with a non-LCI extractor but not sure why. I've tried 4 different recoil springs. 11,13,14,17. I've done all that I can think of. My friend has an SJC built G17 that runs anything. My ejection port is even slightly lower than his. It looks like his ejector is the stock G17. His extractor is a non-LCI which I guess SJC tunes so it spits the brass straight out the side. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Whitefish Posted March 28, 2011 Share Posted March 28, 2011 SJC also offers a smaller mount made for the Docter, STS, Deltapoint sights. It eliminates the rear portion of the mount where your brass is hitting since it isn't necessary for the smaller size sight. Ejection would take place completely behind the mount and should eliminate the problem. I've used Docters and STS sights on rear dovetail mounts on my open Glocks without the ejection port lowered and not had any ejection problems because the brass does not have to clear a mount at all. I use 13 lb ISMI springs and have tried a 14 lb Wolff with no issues. My ejector is a stock G17 and the extractor is a LCI 9mm. The most knowledgeable Glock shooter I know now uses a 17 lb recoil spring because that is what his gun runs best with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sweetback Posted March 28, 2011 Share Posted March 28, 2011 SJC also offers a smaller mount made for the Docter, STS, Deltapoint sights. It eliminates the rear portion of the mount where your brass is hitting since it isn't necessary for the smaller size sight. Ejection would take place completely behind the mount and should eliminate the problem. I've used Docters and STS sights on rear dovetail mounts on my open Glocks without the ejection port lowered and not had any ejection problems because the brass does not have to clear a mount at all. I use 13 lb ISMI springs and have tried a 14 lb Wolff with no issues. My ejector is a stock G17 and the extractor is a LCI 9mm. The most knowledgeable Glock shooter I know now uses a 17 lb recoil spring because that is what his gun runs best with. John at SJC tunes the extactor by using an adjustable set screws on the back of the slide cover plate. Which puts preasure on the extractor. I don't think he is selling this seperate yet you may have to call him and see if he will sell you one.This mod and the offset c more mount, coupled with the ejection port lowering will cure all ejection problems. John includes this adjustable extractor feature in all his current open gun builds. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
triplesinglestack Posted March 28, 2011 Share Posted March 28, 2011 similar setup, but in 40, I have same barrel and comp, w/13 # spring and slide ride dot, no ejection problems w/quality ammo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McGlock Posted March 29, 2011 Share Posted March 29, 2011 I have cured this issue on my open flock by tuning the ejector.. You want to take out the ejector from the trigger block and bend it upward by a tenth of an inch.. This will cause the ejector to hit the casing in a nine o'clock position rather than a 730 posiion causing it to eject flatter out of the side of the gun.. Pm me if you have questions.. You will hAve to heat the ejector up and bend with hammer.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyojin Posted March 29, 2011 Author Share Posted March 29, 2011 John at SJC tunes the extactor by using an adjustable set screws on the back of the slide cover plate. Which puts preasure on the extractor. I don't think he is selling this seperate yet you may have to call him and see if he will sell you one.This mod and the offset c more mount, coupled with the ejection port lowering will cure all ejection problems. John includes this adjustable extractor feature in all his current open gun builds. So having more pressure on the extractor will make the brass fly more consistently out the side? I noticed the set screws on the cover plate on my friends SJC built gun but didn't think anything of them. I noticed the cover plate was thicker as well. It looked like a lightening strike plate. I will have to take a look at my friends again and see if it is something I can tackle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyojin Posted March 29, 2011 Author Share Posted March 29, 2011 I have cured this issue on my open flock by tuning the ejector.. You want to take out the ejector from the trigger block and bend it upward by a tenth of an inch.. This will cause the ejector to hit the casing in a nine o'clock position rather than a 730 posiion causing it to eject flatter out of the side of the gun.. Pm me if you have questions.. You will hAve to heat the ejector up and bend with hammer.. Did you do this on your 9mm ejector or did you use a .40? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yardbird Posted March 29, 2011 Share Posted March 29, 2011 I'd try slowing the slide down with the stock recoil spring and see if it runs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McGlock Posted March 29, 2011 Share Posted March 29, 2011 I have cured this issue on my open flock by tuning the ejector.. You want to take out the ejector from the trigger block and bend it upward by a tenth of an inch.. This will cause the ejector to hit the casing in a nine o'clock position rather than a 730 posiion causing it to eject flatter out of the side of the gun.. Pm me if you have questions.. You will hAve to heat the ejector up and bend with hammer.. Did you do this on your 9mm ejector or did you use a .40? I used the 40 extractor since my open glock is a glock 22 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyojin Posted March 29, 2011 Author Share Posted March 29, 2011 So I modified my ejector and added some tension to the extractor. I'm going to test it out tomorrow. Thanks for the replies. Hopefully it will run 100% now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McGlock Posted March 30, 2011 Share Posted March 30, 2011 So I modified my ejector and added some tension to the extractor. I'm going to test it out tomorrow. Thanks for the replies. Hopefully it will run 100% now. Out of curiosity how did you do that modification.. Let me know if you need an ejector... I have spares that i made.. I can ship you one if needed for a few bucks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyojin Posted March 30, 2011 Author Share Posted March 30, 2011 So I modified my ejector and added some tension to the extractor. I'm going to test it out tomorrow. Thanks for the replies. Hopefully it will run 100% now. Out of curiosity how did you do that modification.. Let me know if you need an ejector... I have spares that i made.. I can ship you one if needed for a few bucks I cut a few coils off of a spare extractor spring and added that to spring loaded bearing. That should add some extra tension and I can fine tune it by cutting a longer piece off or cutting more coils off. We'll see if it works. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sweetback Posted March 30, 2011 Share Posted March 30, 2011 (edited) So I modified my ejector and added some tension to the extractor. I'm going to test it out tomorrow. Thanks for the replies. Hopefully it will run 100% now. Out of curiosity how did you do that modification.. Let me know if you need an ejector... I have spares that i made.. I can ship you one if needed for a few bucks I cut a few coils off of a spare extractor spring and added that to spring loaded bearing. That should add some extra tension and I can fine tune it by cutting a longer piece off or cutting more coils off. We'll see if it works. If you want to use a stronger extractor spring GLOCKPARTS.COM has a 20% stronger stainless steel extractor spring made by White sound defence.Look under PARTS then click on extractor. I use this spring in my open gun and it seems to work as good as the SJC adjustable. They also list a new extractor plunger spring assembly that uses a slightly different geometry than tha stock glock set up. I bought 2 over the winter but have not tried them in my open gun yet. So i can't report if it works or not.It uses the same 20% stronger extractor spring. Edited March 30, 2011 by sweetback Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jager1147 Posted March 30, 2011 Share Posted March 30, 2011 One thing I did to get the CCF frames to run was increasing extractor tension. An easy fix is to use the white .40 bearing, not the black 9mm bearing. The .40 bearing is thicker and increases tension. I do this in my Open Glock as well, but I'm using a slide mounted STS. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueOvalBruin Posted March 30, 2011 Share Posted March 30, 2011 I was wondering about switching out the spring loaded bearing to add tension. I didn't remember the different thicknesses though. There's also one for the .45/10mm frame different ones for the loaded chamber indicator extractors. There’s like 6 in all. I would suppose that the most options are for folks using LCI extractors, then you could take a Non-LCI spring-loaded bearing and cut it down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eric nielsen Posted March 30, 2011 Share Posted March 30, 2011 Good thread. I had good luck fixing extraction problems using the non-LoadedChamberIndicator extractor [the old style] plus the longest spring-loaded bearing I could find. With a Glock you can use the Weigand tension gauges w/a trigger-pull scale. Most tension I got was ~24oz. With that set-up i found VERY consistent ejection, this was with a Limited gun. Prior to the fix, a very unreliable Ltd gun. I like it even better with a small shim behind the spring or else a SW Sigma spring. The SW spring has to be filed out from the inside diameter to fit on a Glock bearing; other options on this thread look better than what I did, especially John Nagel's idea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jager1147 Posted March 30, 2011 Share Posted March 30, 2011 I made a shim also for the extractor bearing in addition to the thicker bearing, think I posted this in one of the ancient CCF threads. Tinfoil lol. It worked. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eric nielsen Posted March 31, 2011 Share Posted March 31, 2011 Saw the shim idea on likely the same ancient thread: brand new razor blade + any old ball-point pen refill = extractor spring shim. The spring does not stay on the bearing by itself once you do that, that's why the Sigma spring (from Brownells) is a decent option, you can make it as snug as you like. Forgot to sat that any extra-power or extra-length spring set-up is going to STING the fingertip that captures it as you slide your rear plate off. Might want to wear a glove. For sure wear safety glasses putting slide back together. Curious if anyone's heard of a back plate bending, cracking, breaking from extra strain of extra-power extractor setups. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sweetback Posted April 1, 2011 Share Posted April 1, 2011 (edited) Saw the shim idea on likely the same ancient thread: brand new razor blade + any old ball-point pen refill = extractor spring shim. The spring does not stay on the bearing by itself once you do that, that's why the Sigma spring (from Brownells) is a decent option, you can make it as snug as you like. Forgot to sat that any extra-power or extra-length spring set-up is going to STING the fingertip that captures it as you slide your rear plate off. Might want to wear a glove. For sure wear safety glasses putting slide back together. Curious if anyone's heard of a back plate bending, cracking, breaking from extra strain of extra-power extractor setups. Check out the White Sound Defence 20% extra power extractor spring at glockparts.com Edited April 1, 2011 by sweetback Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyojin Posted April 2, 2011 Author Share Posted April 2, 2011 UPDATE: So I went out on Thursday and tried it out using a shim to add tension on the extractor. I tried 10#, 11#, 13#, 14#, and 17lb recoil springs. I am still having the same problem as before. So I ordered an extended ejector from Carver Customs, Non-LCI extractor and 20% stronger white defense extractor spring from Glock Parts. I should be able to test this on Tuesday with the new parts. I shot the gun in a competition today without the compensator with some minor loads and it ran perfect. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmnjoeyd1 Posted April 5, 2011 Share Posted April 5, 2011 (edited) Don't run the .40 ejector with 9mm. I did it and had nothing but problems. went back to the 9mm ejector and solved all my issues. I'm running a Sjc 11 port comp. with 13 pound ismi spring and captured guide rod, lowered port, non lci bearing, and a brand new extractor lightly shimmed. My major load is 8.3 540 with a 124 bullet right at 171 pf. I swap out the spring to a 11 pound and run light steel loads with no hiccups. Another thing check your extractor, It may be worn or chipped and dropping the empty case. Edited April 5, 2011 by jmnjoeyd1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyojin Posted April 5, 2011 Author Share Posted April 5, 2011 So I received my Non-LCI extractor/20% stronger extractor spring on Saturday. My Bobby Carver extended ejector came today. I couldn't resist going out to test the new parts. It finally runs! It only had a few hiccups when I was shooting weak hand which was me probably not holding it firm enough. I was able to shoot Minor and Major loads just by swapping out recoil springs. Thanks for all of the help and suggestions. I'm glad I didn't have to send it in anywhere to get worked on. Hopefully this thread will help others that may have problems. So to sum up my parts list. Glock 17 Lone Wolf threaded barrel Jager compensator SJC C-more mount C-more dot Bobby Carver extended ejector Non-LCI extractor 20% stronger extractor spring SJC Magwell Trigger mods(3.5lb connector, trigger geometry, lighter striker spring, polished parts, pre-travel shortened) Frame to slide tightened Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McGlock Posted April 5, 2011 Share Posted April 5, 2011 Awesome! Glad you got it running! How did you tighten the slide to frame fit? I have heard of the hammer and vise method... Just curious how you did it... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyojin Posted April 5, 2011 Author Share Posted April 5, 2011 Awesome! Glad you got it running! How did you tighten the slide to frame fit? I have heard of the hammer and vise method... Just curious how you did it... Thanks! Yeah just a hammer and a 2x4 for the slide to rest on. I did a little at a time until it was nice and tight at battery. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sweetback Posted April 5, 2011 Share Posted April 5, 2011 So I received my Non-LCI extractor/20% stronger extractor spring on Saturday. My Bobby Carver extended ejector came today. I couldn't resist going out to test the new parts. It finally runs! It only had a few hiccups when I was shooting weak hand which was me probably not holding it firm enough. I was able to shoot Minor and Major loads just by swapping out recoil springs. Thanks for all of the help and suggestions. I'm glad I didn't have to send it in anywhere to get worked on. Hopefully this thread will help others that may have problems. So to sum up my parts list. Glock 17 Lone Wolf threaded barrel Jager compensator SJC C-more mount C-more dot Bobby Carver extended ejector Non-LCI extractor 20% stronger extractor spring SJC Magwell Trigger mods(3.5lb connector, trigger geometry, lighter striker spring, polished parts, pre-travel shortened) Frame to slide tightened If you plan on shooting major a lot this season. It would be a wise choose to get a spare 20% stronger extractor spring and Non LCI extractor. These parts take a real stressful beating shooting major loads. It is easy to over look these small parts when you start to have malfunctions (FTE). Extractors chip and springs lose tension. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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