granderojo Posted January 9, 2011 Share Posted January 9, 2011 The stud will come out of the frame when the side plate is removed. It stays in place with the plate on. Is this a Factory only repair? The weapon is a competition gun (625 JM)that has been heavily massaged, so probably no warranty. What about some Red Locktite (bearing and Stud Mount) or some type of epoxy, a good cleaning and let cure? What are your thoughts and/or experiences with this problem? Thanks for your time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
inkedshooter Posted January 9, 2011 Share Posted January 9, 2011 I'd try a local gunsmith. depending on where you are located, there is a few real good revolver smiths here on the forum. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bubber Posted January 9, 2011 Share Posted January 9, 2011 GrandeRojo, Take all the stuff out and send just the frame to Smith. They have all the stuff to gt it right. A good gunsmith can do it but it is a lot of hassle without the correct jigs. Call Smith&Wesson they will send you a box and send through Fed X I think. It has been a while since I had sent mine off. later rdd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted January 9, 2011 Share Posted January 9, 2011 I just sent a customer's gun back to S&W to have a hammer nose bushing pressed in, and they sent me a Fedex return ticket and so far have been treating it like a warranty claim. I like Bubber's idea of sending them just the stripped frame, BUT I don't believe they will work on anything except a complete gun. My solution for my customer's gun was to temporarily install stock guts from another gun. Once the gun is back here I will reinstall the good stuff. Personally, I would do a factory return on a broken stud. Usually when a general gunsmith tries the fix, it winds up looking like shit. This is a good time to remind people that unless they have a really good reason to go inside the gun, leave the sideplates on. Trigger and hammer studs usually break because people are dicking with the actions with the sideplate off, leaving the studs supported on only one side. You almost never see one broken on a stock gun. It's always on the guns that have been....how did Granderojo phrase it?...."heavily massaged." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
granderojo Posted January 10, 2011 Author Share Posted January 10, 2011 The stud is loose, not broked. It is loose enough in the frame that it will come out with only light finger pulling or less. What I ment by "heavily massaged" was that the insides have all been looked at and polished , smoothed or what ever needed to be done. The gun has at least 150k rounds through it and probably another 3-500K pulls in dry fire. If it has to go back to Smith, all the internals will have to be replaced w/stock parts. It's been back several times already for problem repairs (barrel over clocked, chrome coming off the hammer and trigger to name a few). Thanks for your responses and sharing. The knowledge and experience on this forum is amazing!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bubber Posted January 10, 2011 Share Posted January 10, 2011 The stud is loose, not broked. It is loose enough in the frame that it will come out with only light finger pulling or less. What I ment by "heavily massaged" was that the insides have all been looked at and polished , smoothed or what ever needed to be done. The gun has at least 150k rounds through it and probably another 3-500K pulls in dry fire. If it has to go back to Smith, all the internals will have to be replaced w/stock parts. It's been back several times already for problem repairs (barrel over clocked, chrome coming off the hammer and trigger to name a few). Thanks for your responses and sharing. The knowledge and experience on this forum is amazing!! Grande, it has been many years ago but I did send in just the frame, no internals, no side plate and it had a custom barrel on it. It did not seem to matter to them. They just fixed what the probelm was, hammer stud and triger stud, and shipped it back. You may have to pay for the work done. I can't remember if I paid or not but think I did. It was an old model 27. N frame 357 six shot which my friend and gunsmith fitted with a 8 shot cyinder with a lot of modification to raise the barrel the required amount. good luck. later rdd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted January 10, 2011 Share Posted January 10, 2011 Might be worth a try sending back just the frame. On the other hand, since it's a high-mileage unit (300-500K dry clicks? Yikes!) the best solution might be to just leave everything in place and shoot it the way it is. As long as it's supported on both sides and not causing any trouble, it'll probably be fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pskys2 Posted January 10, 2011 Share Posted January 10, 2011 (edited) Yea, Mike I'm guilty of opening up my Revo's too much. Though Jerry has had it happen at least once. I'm sure that's what caused my problem on one of them. But after the 1st one I've been real careful to not put strain on the pins, and yet I still had 2 more break, on different guns. I've finally trying to control my desire to see the insides again! It's probably a crap shoot if you send them in a tuned gun, and it still has all of it's tuned parts in it. There are 2 kinds of fixes though. The best looking fix has a Flushed Stud being soldered in and requires refinishing, costs more with Blued guns but Stainless still need repolished. The quickest fix is what's called a Crowned Stud, they drill the hole out and install a stud that gets crimped in. It leaves a dimpled looking spot on the exterior of the frame. I actually think this is a stronger fix as I've never had one go bad. Oh and it usually takes quite a bit longer to have the Flushed Stud done vs the Crowned Stud. If you want to try to send in a frame only, make sure the side plate and all the screws are there. You might have better luck doing this if it is sent by a Gunsmith, business address and all. If the Studs not broken you might try a good Gunsmith and see if he can just Silver Solder it back in. Trouble is if it's been loose I'd wonder if it was also cracked, even a hairline will show up eventually. If you really want to go cheap try using a Bearing and Stud Loc-Tite. I think it was #695, it's Green and requires baking in an over to set. Used to use it to lock Compensators on 1911 Barrels. I've had a M28 and 625 done with Crowned Studs and a M29 with Flush Stud. All of them had broken, not loose studs. I seem to remember paying for all of them also. On the M29 you can still see a very small ring of solder but it looks neater than the Crowned. On the 625 the Crowned Stud looks good to me. Edited January 10, 2011 by pskys2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anachronism Posted January 11, 2011 Share Posted January 11, 2011 I had a broken trigger pin on a 625. Smith replaced it for free, but they told me they weld in the replacements and that leave a little brown burn mark on the frame which requires refinishing to remove. I opted against refinishing, which I would have had to pay for, and just had them replace the pin & leave everything else as it. When it got back there was indeed a slight brown ring on the frame where the pin was welded. It was so slight that I never regretted not paying the extra for refinishing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S&WIowegan Posted January 15, 2011 Share Posted January 15, 2011 When I sent a 625 to Smith for a new cylinder...back in the day...they installed the cylinder and de-installed all parts not stock, put stock parts in and KEPT mine. Apparently their lawyers think they might somehow be liable if a BAD happens. DOH!! Bob A16841 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
granderojo Posted January 15, 2011 Author Share Posted January 15, 2011 Thanks for all the advice and ideas. As always, this forum is a wonderful source for info and help. It's gone back home for repair. Granderojo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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