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Sub 2lb Trigger on an M&P


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Leozinho> Good points for sure. To each their own I guess. If this was a carry gun then sure, I would make the trigger pull heavier for obvious reasons. But its a competition gun and a sub 2lb trigger verses a heavier one is a competitive advantage. I disagree with your stance on having your finger on the trigger when you don't intend it to be there. We all HAVE TO keep our booger picker off the boom lever when handling a gun and do not intend it to fire. The number one safety is the shooter himself and always will be. There are plenty of Open and Limited guns out there with 1lb - 2lb triggers. By your logic these shooters would have ND's all day long because the trigger is too light to push back on their negligent finger being on the trigger. I don't know how it goes where you shoot, but I don't see these shooters having regular ND's where I compete.

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There are plenty of Open and Limited guns out there with 1lb - 2lb triggers. By your logic these shooters would have ND's all day long because the trigger is too light to push back on their negligent finger being on the trigger. I don't know how it goes where you shoot, but I don't see these shooters having regular ND's where I compete.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but don't most of those 1-2lb open and limited guns have manual safeties, which should be engaged before reholstering? That's my point. Both of the USPSA shooters that I personally know that shot themselves did it reholstering with their fingers in the trigger guard. If they had engaged manual safeties, it wouldn't have happened. I can't tell you if a heavier trigger would have prevented it, but it wouldn't have hurt.

And yes, safety began with them, they preached keeping their finger off the trigger, and all the other stuff we say. Thinking it can't happen to you is a mistake.

I'd be more concerned about shooting myself reholstering than launching one over the berm (not that that isn't a safety violation either.)

Anyway, just be cautious. Good luck.

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Did you have to do anything to the trigger safety mechanism when you installed the pretravel screw? I was looking at my gun, and there is less than 1mm of room to be gained with a set screw in that location. There just isn't enough play between the frame and the trigger safety to move the trigger group back any useful amount.

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Yes. I had to change the depth of the trigger safety leg that interacts with the frame. The trigger safety leg can be reduced in length to allow it to still function when the trigger is resting further back in the trigger guard.

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Yes. I had to change the depth of the trigger safety leg that interacts with the frame. The trigger safety leg can be reduced in length to allow it to still function when the trigger is resting further back in the trigger guard.

Also buddy you are talking about your wife using this gun right? I don't know what her skill level is, but something to think about handing a gun with that light of a trigger to a newer shooter. You do what you think is best, I'm not throwing rocks at you. If I didn't like ya I would even have brought it up. ;)

JT

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JThompson> I gave her the choice of whatever trigger pull weight she wanted. I built it up at 3lbs, 2.5lbs 2.25lbs and 1.75lbs and had her dry fire each one then tell me which one she would like to use. The funny thing about this process is that she kept wanting it lighter and lighter and when I had her use the 1.75lb trigger she said "Can I have it lighter than this?" :surprise:

I told her to try it in live fire at 1.75lbs and if she really wants me to make it lighter than it currently is I will do it. So far she thinks that its right where it should be. Lucky for me I guess :blush:

To be honest, the trigger pull weight is a little deceiving given its two stage feel. Since the trigger is built up to have a little bit of take up before the trigger bar touches the sear, then it takes more effort to push through the sear and drop the striker, it feels light but is very crisp in the break. More importantly you know exactly when its going to break because you can prep the take up to the sear. I have tried other trigger jobs where they are setup super mushy and most of the trigger pull is pushing through the sear until it breaks without any indication of getting close. A lot of Glocks with trigger jobs feel this way along with some XD's. This to me seems like a more dangerous trigger setup because you don't really know when its going to break as you prep the trigger. With how I setup the M&P trigger there is a distinct two stage feel to the take up, then sear push through. This allows you to dry fire the gun very consistently prepping the trigger to the sear but not dropping the striker until you choose to apply the additional pressure.

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I also want to point out that I put the gun through a whole series of tests to try and get it to misfire (Dummy rounds loaded in the gun with a cocked striker of course). I inserted it in the holster a bunch of different ways forcing it left and right, front and back trying to get the trigger to catch on the holster and drop the striker. I also drop tested it, smacked it on the bench and a bunch of other shocking/jarring ways trying to get it to misfire and it never came close to failing. Even if it did drop the striker it would have to overcome the firing pin block which is also fully functional. So I feel very confident that the only time this gun is going to fire is by pulling the trigger. It would be nice if this gun had a grip safety like the XD's but it doesn't.

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I also want to point out that I put the gun through a whole series of tests to try and get it to misfire (Dummy rounds loaded in the gun with a cocked striker of course). I inserted it in the holster a bunch of different ways forcing it left and right, front and back trying to get the trigger to catch on the holster and drop the striker. I also drop tested it, smacked it on the bench and a bunch of other shocking/jarring ways trying to get it to misfire and it never came close to failing. Even if it did drop the striker it would have to overcome the firing pin block which is also fully functional. So I feel very confident that the only time this gun is going to fire is by pulling the trigger. It would be nice if this gun had a grip safety like the XD's but it doesn't.

Just make damn sure she trains keeping her finger (exaggerated clear when holstering) That's the biggest danger point as far as I'm concerned. Tell her you want to see that finger bent well away from that Kydex every time she reholsters that thing. :unsure:

JT

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It would be nice if this gun had a grip safety like the XD's but it doesn't.

IMO the grip safety is more for the lawyer's peace of mind than for functionality.

On a separate note, I don't see Mrs. Panda having any ND's caused by having a light trigger. It's true that she is a newcomer to the sport but she is very conscientious and disciplined when it comes to handling firearms. I feel perfectly safe around her knowing that her gun handling skills are more honed than some other USPSA "veterans" that we shoot with.

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Yes. I had to change the depth of the trigger safety leg that interacts with the frame. The trigger safety leg can be reduced in length to allow it to still function when the trigger is resting further back in the trigger guard.

Isn't modifying the trigger safety leg an "Externally Visible Modification"?

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Hockeyfighter25> If I added something to the trigger that is visible from the outside I can see how that rule would apply. The way I modified the safety leg it looks like the stock part. It would be hard for any one to pick up the gun and notice that the safety leg was modified. The "Externally Visible Modification" rule can be taken to extremes. Technically if you changed the pre and over travel that is an externally visible modification because it changes the triggers travel distance within the trigger guard and you can "See" that it is changed. I don't see NROI busting people for changing the pre/over travel distance of the triggers.

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